The story so far,bled the hydrolics yesterday,was like a new car drove it yesterday evening,problem back again noisy gear change:bang:,today just finished bleeding it and drove it down the road,its not really helped so been checking prices,several auto parts in the area so asked for prices cheapest £53.50 +vat and 2 at £65.00 +vat, the cheapest was LUK the others were german manufacturers, so not genuine FIAT so what fiats did not last that long anyway so going for non OEM, and saving around £60.
Why did Fiat fit such crap products in their cars:bang:,if its not the mounts its the electrics or this bloody clutch slave ,my God I never had so much problems with my other cars, so first 2 weeks in easter its getting a new clutch slave is it worth putting in a new clutch in?,would this problem with the slave damaged the clutch at all? apparently this problem with the slave makes the clutch run dry?any ideas is it a good idea to change the clutch,sorry I am asking the same questions again I really feel low and pis*** off with this car,might even get rid and get some thing else!!

concertic clutch slave cylinder jtd

I am about to change the slave,so the question is,should I change the clutch? its on 50k now or should I leave it?,I will however change the gearoil anything else I should be considering while the gearbox is off.:worship:

At 50K I think it would be a wise move. You'd be gutted if you didn't, and it went in a few thousand miles...

thanx I thought it a good idea but the guy who is doing the work seems to think i might be wasting monry but i think it would be the best thing to do

I would agree, you are probably wasting money changing the clutch.

Firstly, are you sure it is the slave cylinder causing the problem. They are very robust, not like the cheap plastic ones on the petrol stilos. It could well be the master cylinder leaking and would give the same symptoms.

JTD clutches last a long time. Mine is on 124K and still fine. Usually they do well over 100K, so unless you intend to keep the car a very long time, it is not worth changing as they are quite expensive. If you do change it, be very sure you get the correct one as there were different ones fitted depending on the year. Fit the wrong one and it all has to come apart again.

You could also change the crankshaft oil seal, and maybe gearbox input shaft oil seals as it is only a few £ and they do leak after a while.

Hi not sure of anything at the moment,when I bled the hydrolic system got air out of the nipple it got so much better,but when I drove it a couple of hours later it was there again metal sounding clonking on gear change , definate not gearbox fairly sure its not clutch,so everybody I have talked to and surfed with seems to think its the slave ,simply because once bled it was a hell of a lot better and strangely seemed quicker?will the lads when removing the gear box see the problem you think it maybe? cant wait for the battery car to come on to the production line, NO BLOODY ENGINE to worry about.

I think you should change the master cylinder first as it is so much easier and cheaper than taking the gearbox out. You could get one from a scrap yard for a few £ and they are easy enough to change. Maybe even DIY if you have some spanners.
Also, just a thought. The master cylinder has a plastic piece, on the pedal that it pushes against. Maybe that has broken and the plunger is not lining up in the cylinder any more so is leaking.

Replacing the master cylinder yes I could do that no problem,but as for the leak this would have shown in the hydrolic reseviour ? the level would have been dropping ?,the hydrolic oil seems to be running smoothly into the slave,Oh I dont know anymore I will buy a new master cylinder and fit it,but I am sure its the slave why would it get better if i bled it at the nipple?Oh someone shoot me please!!!

By leaking, I ment leaking air in as apposed to fluid out. When you take your foot off the clutch quickly, small airbubbles pass the seals and get inside. At least they often do on rover 75 diesel master cylinders. I dont think I have ever seen another post about a problem with the JTD clutch cylinders. They seem very reliable, in complete contrast to the petrol ones.

It's a sealed hydraulic system so for air to get in then fluid has to come out so for a master cylinder leak look for fluid leaks around the clutch pedal. Because a master cylinder is always primed with fresh oil then, if they cause problems through a poor actuating piston seal, they tend to work and then not work and then work again. Any air just goes straight back up to the reservoir and gone when the clutch pedal is released and the master cylinder refills with oil so they bleed themselves usually

A lot of the 2.4 and 1.8 engines as well as JTDs have concentric clutch slave cylinders and if you do a search for those you'll see concentric slave cylinder problems. When they take the cylinder out then they find the tell tale traces of oil in the cylinder bellows

Make sure your clutch pedal IS getting fully back up again as without that then it doesn't get a full prime of hyd fluid. I had that problem on mine due to a poorly fitting above your feet soundproofing cover and the bite point just went lower and lower as the master cylinder wasn't getting refilled each time. That's how some people find their clutch bite point moves too much as the engine warms up and then back again as it cools down



See where it was rubbing? I tore that out and through it away very early on

But if you are getting air in the system every time then you have a leak


This is a typical clutch master cylinder and you can see that if you have a leak then it will be in the cabin by the pedal, anywhere else would be easily visible

Also a bulletin from motaquip about the correct proceedure when fitting one..do's and donts..

http://www.hanburymotorparts.co.uk/technical_product_bulletin_mq048.pdf

PNL said:

Also a bulletin from motaquip about the correct proceedure when fitting one..do's and donts..

http://www.hanburymotorparts.co.uk/technical_product_bulletin_mq048.pdf

Click to expand...

I got that leaflet when I bought a spare CSS for my JTD a few months ago........ I was sooooo difficult to resist giving the bearing a little push. :devil:

Deckchair5 said:

It's a sealed hydraulic system

Click to expand...

No it isnt. It is vented to the brake fluid resivour on a JTD.

Hi,clutch seems to work fine returns properly,no leaks in or around the master cylinder at all,the guy in the parts shop were I am going to purchase the slave , told me that he has sold a lot of these jtd slaves across the fiat range there is a definate issue with these,the clutch will also be replaced as I dont want to go through this again for a while.

the bleed cap in the hydrolic pipe just before it enters the gearbox was off and looked as if has been off for some time would this be the scene of the crime drawing are through the bleed hole?

No, that's just a dust cover

Really was a bad idea to put the slave cylinder inside the clutch housing but a lot of cars do, like the new Mini. What would normally be a £30 and 30min job for an external slave turns into a near clutch overhaul. Design often makes the clutch action heavier too as there's no leverage involved

As I dont know the real cause of this problem, I have made a decided to change the slave ,clutch and the master cylinder and bugger the cost , I am at my wits end,still like the car though?:bang: