Hmmmmmmmmmmm and the saga continues,

Thanks Argo the maf turned up today as promised, Took the old one off and put the new one on and exactly the same but i didn't change the connectors ( should i have?).

So tomorrow I'm going to blank the egr valve and see what happens as its getting on my nerves now as its OK until you give it some stick and blurgggggggggggggggggggggggh. Starts of fine but then just does the dying trick and also i know somethings not right because i can hear it in the exhaust pipe as it sounds a little like its blowing and of course cant hear any turbo whistle.

It is booked into Hutton's weds afternoon but really cant afford it at mo so if anybody has any ideas they are more than welcome to tell me.

I am guessing it has to be Egr/Maf/boost valve related as i cant think what else gives these symptoms?????????????????? My K&N has been cleaned and washed, i have blown through what pipes i can and blocked up the end that used to be attached to the oil trap cos that was broke and I'm just at a loss.

Having said that the fuel filter hasn't been changed in over a year but that shouldn't make any difference should it. And there is a water in diesel light or warning anyway is there not.

Sorry for the long rambling post.

That was bad luck

I'm thinking you should check the MAP sensor (on back of manifold)

I'm thinking this might explain why it runs so much better with the MAF disconnected - on the basis the ECU might then also discount readings from the MAP sensor :chin:

You most likely touched it when cleaning the EGR so that might be a clue.

Worth looking at

Havent had time to look at it today, going to block off the egr tomorrow and see if that makes any difference and see if i can find that map sensor.

Then off to huttons to have a plug in and see.

Muppet1 said:

Havent had time to look at it today, going to block off the egr tomorrow and see if that makes any difference and see if i can find that map sensor.

Then off to huttons to have a plug in and see.

Click to expand...

with my power problems it was the egr valve

trouble with egr is that 9 out of 10 cases it's not the egr itself sticking but the actuator due to corrosion

to check this just take the actuator off and check the valve for free movement than check the actuator for free effortless movement.
if the actuator rod is not fully depressed or it's sticking at any position then that is your problem

to fix it it's very easy

you have to drill about 3-4mm hole on in the case on top of the actuator
than put something with a flat head (and what fits your hole) inside and knock on it with a hammer to push actuator bits out.(don't be afraid, it takes a few good punches)
once everything is out you can separate everything and give it a very good clean with a sand paper, clean the holes inside as well,
once everything is clean just put them back together and tap them back in with a hammer until flush

most probably it will fix your problem, alternative to above procedure is a whole new egr, so before you buy one it's worth a try

hope it helps, i can e-mail you a pdf guide

Right have this morning blanked off the egr and took it for a drive and did exactly the same thing, As soon as you go over 3-3500rpm it just dies.

So its looking like the Map sensor unless i have a defective boost valve or Maf or even Egr but then Egr is unlikely having blocked it. When i cleaned the Egr i did take the actuator off the Egr valve and the little black button thing pushed in quite easy and popped out but I'm guessing also if the actuator has failed thats where the engine warning light comes in. And that being the case perhaps it goes into limp mode even if the Egr is blanked.

Cant see it being the boost valve but still the Maf worries me as there was a marked improvement when i unplugged the old one but then that might have been because i cleaned the Egr ARggggggggggggggggggggggggg.

I give up, will trundle up to huttons and get it plugged in and at least then i will know whats up.

Perhaps its time i bought one of these code readers!!

well the mystery deepens,

Huttons plugged the car in and two faults they cant remove,

1, Air con pressure switch

2, Brake light switch.

All the other fault codes deleted ok.

Huttons are ordering a brake light switch and we will see what happens next but i cant believe a dodgey brake light switch causes these problems. But then again nothing surprizes me anymore.

Might explain why my cruise control stopped working last year too.

Muppet1 said:

well the mystery deepens,

Huttons plugged the car in and two faults they cant remove,

1, Air con pressure switch

2, Brake light switch.

All the other fault codes deleted ok.

Huttons are ordering a brake light switch and we will see what happens next but i cant believe a dodgey brake light switch causes these problems. But then again nothing surprizes me anymore.

Might explain why my cruise control stopped working last year too.

Click to expand...

Air con pressure switch could just be lack of gas.

Brake light switch fault will disable cruise control but I can't see that it would have any effect on engine performance.

Suprised they didn't have a brake light switch in stock if they're a Fiat dealer, very common problem.

Muppet1 said:

Perhaps its time i bought one of these code readers!!

Click to expand...

There's free software available on the forum that can do more than just read fault codes here:

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo/216751-free-fiat-diagnostic-software.html

Well im looking at the vagcom 409.1 cables but they seem to all be vag ones or does that not matter.

Think i will buy one tonight if someone could give me some advise as to what one to buy. Is that it, A cable, the software from the linky above and a lappy.

Thank You.

That's what you need, VAGCOM 409.1 cable. You would need to modify it slightly if you want to be able to read PAS, ABS and airbag faults.

Lots of information, and the latest version of the software (1.6) on yani's website and forum here:

http://www.fiatecuscan.net/

Well have the one that was recommended by ricnfiona so will have a play when it comes.
knowing my luck the blooming car will be fixed by then.

im watching this thread and reading everything on this problem because i think ive got the same.Bought car 1 month ago and have a 3 month warranty, so needs sorting soon.Took car to reccomended garage and had it pluged in today, air flow meter came up as the fault (but after reading these pages i was a bit doubtful) but had a new one fitted anyway (no cost) and no effect on problem at all infact it seems to do it more now.

Well i hope i get it sorted soon as its driving me nuts, i take it there wasn't anymore stored faults other than the airflow meter. Do you know the fault codes and if you do perhaps you can post them for others to check.

So i take it the car doesn't run any different if you unplug the Maf then, See this is whats really got me, New boost valve, Maf and blocked Egr and no improvement.
Going to try the old boost valve and swap over the plug on the Maf but having said that it would have come up on the diagnostic today.
Argonought said about the Map sensor but again it would have come up on the diagnostic if it wasn't working but i will get the the bottom of it.

Huttons cleared the fault and within 600 yards of leaving engine fault was back and back to revving to just over 3000rpm.
So i am really hoping that because the brake light switch is faulty its throwing odd signals to the body computer and the errors are because its stupid!!!!

I'm just really clutching straws here as the garage don't i think hold up much hope either!

hi muppet, not seen any fault codes as car gone to garage(due to warranty) my problem seems to be more intermitent, when the engines warm no matter how far i press the fast pedal theres no response apart from a bit of smoke out of the back, and then a few seconds ltr it comes back to life.Car booked in garage tuesday will let you all know results. If it was,nt for waranty i,d be in the engine bay now.........egr valve,map.maf.overboost valve..........

Right my code reader came today and have managed to get it to work and there are 4 codes.

P0703 Transmission/gear sys (4) fatal
P0530 Ac Refrigerant Pressure (1) fatal
P0236 Boost pressure (2) stored signal low
P1555

All these cleared and all have come back bar P1555.

Now what does P0236, i know its overboost but would it be not working or electrical conecttion or something else???

Clever bit of kit though this software.

From the code list I have:

P0703 = Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit Malfunction
P0530 = A/C Refrigerant Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0236 = Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance
P1555 = Brake/Accelerate signal implausible

No idea why it shows Torque Converter unless you have an automatic, however, the Brake Switch part of it could tie up with P1555. Implausible means the ECU has seen a condition that it's not programmed for. In this instance, as it says Brake/Accelerate, it could be that you have 'heel and toed' it at some time. The ECU doesn't expect the accelerator and brake pedals to be pressed at the same time so throws up an error.

"Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance" suggests the ECU has seen a voltage from the turbo boost valve that's outside it's expected limits. Could be either a faulty sensor or connections.

Unfortunately, fault codes never tell you which part to replace. They're only a guide to tell you what area you need to investigate.

Thanks Davren,
Well i did put both feet on the pedals just to see what would happen as i was wondering if the throttle would cut like it should knowing the brake light switch is dodgey.
So next plan then to have a look at and cleaning the contacts of the wires that go to the boost valve and see whats what. Thats a new valve on so doubtful its that. However will try it with the old one tomorrow.
Do you think there is any likely hood of the faulty brake light switch affecting the ecu and that in turn upsetting the boost valve as its really starting to p*ss me off as it is nearly back to its normal but then give it any serious stick and the fault come back.

Must remember to unblock the egr tomorrow too.

I can't see any reason why a brake switch would affect the engine management ECU.

It sends a signal to the body computer to turn the brake lights on and a signal to the ABS ECU to turn that on. I'll look at the wiring diagrams in eLEARN later to see if it does anything else.

Have you got eLEARN? I'll put a link to it on the forum's download site if you want it.

Yes please, i did have it but it appears to have vanished from my hard drive.

Just put a link to the Stilo eLEARN on the forum download site here;

https://www.fiatforum.com/downloads.php?do=cat&id=5


Looked at the wiring diagrams, the brake switch does also send a signal to the engine management ECU.

I suspect it's to enable fuel cut-off below a certain RPM when deccelerating and the accelerator pedal is also released.

Hmmmm thats interesting as im wondering how long the brake switch has been dodgey because my stilo has been suffering slight hesitasions for months now and its all starting to make a little sense but what dosent is the boost error. But that might just be a dirty contact.

So monday will ring Rod at huttons and see if my brake light switch is in and when they can fit it and go from there i think.
Thank you for your input Davren and the link to the stilo elearn.