Technical 1.6 consumption

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Technical 1.6 consumption

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Dec 23, 2009
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i know this threat has probably come up plenty of times, but i could only find jtd and 1.2 consumption threads.
i have a 1.6 stilo and i seem to be getting really bad consumption. i'm returning an average in the mid 20's and if i try to drive like christian i can get it up to the low 30s. ive also noticed that in 1st gear the throttle is very jerky, i noticed most in the ice/snow. if youre going along at idle, theres no smooth acceleration, if you so much as touch the accelerator then you jerk forward. could it be connected?

i rarely drive fast roads or motorways, mostly town driving with a traffic jam here and there.
 
Info is in the FAQ section but you will find stacks of tips on getting good consumption from the 1.6 if you Search for posts by Deckchair5 (using 'mpg' or 'consumption')
 
There's something wrong with your motor with those kind of figures but the good news is that it may be something simple to put right.

Assuming you have the usual service items of air filter and plugs in good order then the items that drastically affect fuel consumption are the MAP sensor and lambda sensor, as well as the obvious tyre pressures and brakes binding.

I wouldn't be surprised if you have a P0105 fault code stored and your ECU is ignoring the MAP sensor. It only takes a low battery voltage for the MAP signal to be out of limits and that's it, the ECU then ignores it forever. So, to bring it back on line, make a note first of any fault codes stored, clear any fault codes or reset the stored data and then the ECU will take another checkover of the MAP and hopefuly realise it can be trusted again. If you don't have a fault code reader then you can reset things by disconnecting the battery for a few hours but that will also remove any fault codes that are stored

You ought to be able to achieve 35mpg without too much trouble and 40mpg on a fast steady run

Lambda sensor would be my next check but see how you get on by resetting the ECU to accept the MAP sensor

A sudden uncontrollable surge in acceleration from low revs is a sign of running rich so that also points to lambda sensor and MAP sensor (but also clogged air filter so check that first)
 
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Morning, on my 1.6 I am getting between 8.7lit/100km and 9.8lit/100km. (All depending on the driving style). This is almost exclusively city driving. I have not used the car on the open road yet.
 
That sounds about right to me, the most i have ever had is 38 but on average get about 28mpg.
How do you check the Map sensor?

Why do you want to check it? Yours must be good as those are normal average 1.6mpg figures for town driving/ open road

Checking the MAP output involves checkng the output against known good figures and knowing what those figures should look like under different engine loads, Same as checking your mpg

If your car keeps throwing up P0105 codes then it's spotted a problem for you. Unfortunately a poor battery voltage can make it have the wrong MAP voltages and then the MAP is ignored from that point and the ECU estimates what's best, much to the detriment of fuel economy
 
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I have 1.6 stilo dynamic in city driving I get 30mpg so your car is fine. on the motorway it goes up to 36mpg. My next car will be a diesel:bang:
 
mine averages about 25-28 mpg and has done for years.

vast majority of this is city driving with stop-start traffic all day long.

the 1.6 isn't that economical in reality
 
That sounds about right to me, the most i have ever had is 38 but on average get about 28mpg.
How do you check the Map sensor?

Why do you want to check it? Yours must be good as those are normal average 1.6mpg figures for town driving/ open road

Checking the MAP output involves checkng the output against known good figures and knowing what those figures should look like under different engine loads, Same as checking your mpg

If your car keeps throwing up P0105 codes then it's spotted a problem for you. Unfortunately a poor battery voltage can make it have the wrong MAP voltages and then the MAP is ignored from that point and the ECU estimates what's best, much to the detriment of fuel economy

Thanks for the info. I really do need to check the codes as i know for a fact that i have hit low voltages multiple times. So low that my car went into limp mode (i think) with no warning at speed on the motorway :eek:. It was just my luck that there were road works too so one of the 2 lanes were shut.

One thing though, i basically said that i get the same fuel economy as the OP said in his first post and you said that is an average figure yet you tell the OP there is something wrong. :confused:
 
OP said
i'm returning an average in the mid 20's. If i try to drive like christian i can get it up to the low 30s
You should always be able to get a 1.6 up to the high 20s in town and high 30s on open roads

You said
the most i have ever had is 38 but on average get about 28mpg.
High 20's and high 30's so nothing much wrong there

Try to turn it off when you can see you're going to be sat stationary for a while and block change up the fastest gear you can as soon as you can without the engine labouring. Makes a huge difference, perhaps the biggest ones of all. I don't dawdle about either. Up to speed sharpish and then economy gears. The sooner you can get into those more economical gears the better

But if your car is ignoring the MAP then it will always be running richer than it could and you will struggle with low mpg figures no matter what you do
 
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to check any problems you need a code reader to get the codes and then use it to clear them after writing them all down if clearing them yourself.

Sorry deckchair i was assuming thnat people can read further into my figures than is possible lol. I only meant 28mpg as an average and that is being easy under foot. If i drive enthusiastically this will drop and i average about 4mpg better fuel economy after reamaping it.
 
if theres a sensor problem should to code come up on the trip when i start it up?
No, once a P0105 MAP sensor circuit is hard stored it doesn't tell you again after an "Engine fault" warning
map sensor warning jan 2010.JPG
See the 109 Kilopascals air pressure here on freeze frame data when the error was recorded? That's it, off the chart, so now it ignores the map

and to reset it do i have to take it to the garage and get it plugged into a computer?
No, you can disconnect the battery for a few hours which will erase all fault codes, all fuel trim data and a few basic personal car settings but you could really do with knowing what fault codes are stored before they are all erased

also would that stop my airbag warnings that are really annoying.
No that's on a different, faster response circuit. To stop the warnings you simply need to fix the fault
 
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I have just serviced the car 1.6 A/C,well oil plugs and filters!!! and average on the trip showing 26.8 around town.
Wish I had checked before hand :tosser:
 
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