As I`m new to fiats I have no idea what works and what doesnt. How much difference will a filter and exhaust combo make and a remap. I need to replace the backbox anyhow as its starting to blow and with a service coming up the filter will be being done anyway.

Regarding a remap, does it actually help rather than hinder mpg? And who/where would be a good place to get it done?

Finally with the suspension whats the best way to stop it rolling and wallowing?will springs and uprated arb bushes cure this or is a full susp set up?

Do a search, there's loads of stuff on these topics, you'll find lots of opinions. For what it's worth, if you drive as you were before the re-map, it will probably improve your mpg. Handling can be vastly improved by a good set of dampers (e.g. Koni Sports) though some on here swear by lowering springs or coilovers. Welcome to the credit card busting world of modding!

P.S. Would help people to advise you if we knew which model you're running...

Sorry its a 1.8 5dr! Mpg isnt bad at the moment at around 36.5-38.2!

Just want it to handle better and have a bit more go!

Depends on how much you want to spend. GSR induction kit can give 5-6 bhp more, remap may add a little more. Eibach springs are well respected, have a look at those.

If you're after performance as in getting from point A to point B faster, I'd do this.

1) Get good tyres, go for a quality brand with a suitable speed rating W+ Budget £400 a set
2) Get a set of upgraded discs and pads, either blank, drilled, grooved or combi discs with performance pads, I rate Feredo DS Performance pads. Expect little change from £200 for a good setup for DIY fitment, add an hours labour for a garage to do it.
3) Look at the internet and look up what others have done to your engine, doesn't matter which car its in, just the engine. (EG VAG 1.8T tunes lovely, VAG 2.0T doesn't in the same way!)
I don't know anything about your engine as I don't have one, so everything from here is generic, but Id guess:
4) Exhaust system, ideally manifold back, tubular design, custom built in high grade stainless steel. Maybe £500 all in, another £150 for a sport CAT if you wanna keep it. Then another £50 on qaulity thermal wrapping to keep the heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay.
5) Cold air induction, CDA, K and N etc. All much of a muchness in terms of gains to be had, in real terms, pick a brand, I'd go for Pipercross as I've used there stuff before, very good. ABout £100-£250 depending on bramd.
6) Engine mapping, with the air going in faster, and out faster, get a rolling road map sorted out done by someone with a good reputation. This should take a full day if it is done well, then you should be asked back for a review in 1-4 weeks to check the mapping work. This work'll cost from £250 to £800 depending on how long it takes and who it goes to.
7) Now it accelerates and brakes like a demon, now look at the suspension, get a garage to check all your existing suspension components, particularly upper and lower suspension arms up from, roll bars, drop link and bushings on all suspension joints, if you wanna get real serious have the lot replaced with polyurethane (powerflex) bushes. This'll cost anywhere fro £100 as a DIY kit to £400+ fitted, suspension bush replacments can be a total mare to do, some garages won't even go near them. It'll stiffen the chassis in readiness for:
8) Suspension, this one is all very personal, pick a ride height and pick a style of suspension, the most basic is shorter fatter springs on standard shocks, this is a waste of time. Cheapest real option is shorter fatter springs on shorter stiffer dampers, then there are the coilover kits with adjustable ride height, rebound and bump settings. This is a pro job, playing with these things can really ruin your car. Budget from £300 for a good basic kit to £2000 for top end coilovers.
9) Ultra accurate alignment of suspension. After getting the suspension changed, the tracking, camber and caster will be miles out. Leave it a week or two to settle then pay for a Hunter 4 wheel alignment. This'll cost about £50 and is well worth it.

Now it goes, stops and steers really well. Finally, call your insurers and be prepared to see your insurance premium quadrupuled and then some.

Enjoy!

Andy

Andymacselespeed said:

If 4) Exhaust system, ... Then another £50 on qaulity thermal wrapping to keep the heat in the exhaust and out of the engine bay.
5) Cold air induction, CDA, K and N etc. All much of a muchness in terms of gains to be had, in real terms, pick a brand, I'd go for Pipercross as I've used there stuff before, very good. ABout £100-£250 depending on bramd.

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Exhaust wrap is not a good idea on manifolds when the car is used as a daily driver. Moisture gets in there and will be trapped, which often long term results in cracking manifolds. The proper way doing this is ceramic coating.

Piperx are the worst of all induction kits. Having had many in back to back testing on ther rollers I have yet to see one that actually shows a perfromance increase against OE.

As I said in the original post, it is all horses for courses. I write from personal first hand experience only.

I had an old mark one Ford Orion with Bosch mechanical fuel injection, which I fully manifold exhaust wrapped to reduce under bonnet temps. It ran a lot smoother with the wrap than without. I more recently also had an Alfa 156 Selespeed with a Pipercross filter. The Alfa MAF sensors are prone to failure when used with an oiled filter like K and N and my Pipercross came un oiled. I installed it un oiled and it ran beautifully for 3 years only being taken out, put through the dishwasher and put back in the car unoiled! It also gained good feel, if not necessarily rolling road power. (I didn't get it rolling road tested)

As in all things to do with car modification, it is personal choice. If other people have found that on the origianl posters engine these ideas do not work, from first hand experience noy hear say, that'd be useful info. to add to the thread.

The Alfa AFM is the same Boscg unit that is in the German cars as well as others. That the oil from the filter is damaging the AFM is a myth. It never has been possible to prove it.

That the Piperx filters are the worst in terms of flow is proven. This has been proven by tuners, racers and engineers in the lab.

The only time a Piperx filter might flow better than an OE filter/induction is when the OE filter element is clogged up.

But what would I know I am only in the business for 30 years and spend more than half my life testing.

Random Hero said:

Finally with the suspension whats the best way to stop it rolling and wallowing?will springs and uprated arb bushes cure this or is a full susp set up?

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On my JTD I have the full Eibach pro-kit (30mm drop, matched struts) which has given good service on the car. Wee bit harsh on the rough stuff, but the handling is much much better for the change
If I'm honest, a 20mm drop would probably have been a better choice for me, but folk have gone much lower than -30mm
I'd suggest getting a front strut brace at the same time as fitting any uprated springs/struts as, in my experience, it helps with tyre wear (a notorious Stilo problem). When that's all done, get the 4 wheel alignment and tracking checked as andymac suggests - worth every penny. I'd change the front suspension arms and drop-links at the same time. Top mounts worth checking, but sadly very little in the way of uprated bushings available for the Stilo.

Remaps and induction is a topic all on its own and I see we already have some debate on filtration. I'm saying nowt

I'd sort the suspension first, look at more 'go' later as there's little to be gained by having more grunt without the car handling as it should.

Oldschool said:

But what would I know I am only in the business for 30 years and spend more than half my life testing.

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Easy tiger! - As I said before, personal views.

Anything to do with playing with cars is all about personal choice and looking at what happens. Lots of people on web forums tend to go down the route of pushing what they have done. E.G. I have a Brand A exhaust system, they are therefore the best in the world. Then along comes someone else who says Brand A are rubbish, they fall apart, cause global worming and hurt puppies, you must buy Brand B because I have one.

Have a read around, look at the info that is available and make your own call.

Its a free world and don't we love it that way!

PS - I'd strongly advise talking to your insurer about your plans before you lay out a penny. They should give you an idea about how the changes will impact your premium, also, if you're going down the route of big changes, pick a firm that specialise. The big brands like Direct Line and Churchill won't even cover a modified car (its in there small print) or they will offer cover at a punitive premium increase. Recently on here someone was saying that following a shunt, Direct Line increased their premium by a big lump (£400?) and their excess when the accident assessor noticed aftermarket rear lights on the car.