I'm not giving any guarantees on this and if you want my honest opinion I'll be surprised if has got anything to do with a coil.

But it wont fix itself by just talking about it

Your choice basically :shrug:

Filling in some of the missing data
from your post No..1 which is the most recent diagnostic report
P0230 I have as [FONT=&quot]Fuel Pump Primary Circuit Malfunction
P0443 I have as [/FONT] [FONT=&quot]Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0105 is MAP sensor circuit malfunction
P0520 is as you've stated oil pressure circuit malfunction
P0460 Fuel level sensor
Now, of course, losing your fuel pump will stop the engine and that's P0230 above

Ok now relay T9 is ringing alarm bells. This is a majorly important relay as it feeds
Fuel pump
Oil pressure switch
Injectors
Coils
Rpm sensor
Fuel level sensor
MAP sensor

[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]An intermittent T9 relay contact will bring down the rest. Alll of this is on the engine bay control unit
B1. Power to T9 relay is by Fuse F16 and there's a wire link shown at connector C at the engine bay control unit B1 from pins 12 to 8 in supplying the relay latching power. So any problems there or anywhere in the feed to relay T9 will cause intermittent relay operation

Do you have wiring diagrams?






[/FONT]

Deckchair5 said:

Do you have wiring diagrams?

Click to expand...

or stilo battery cover?

@ deckchair5
That's some real stuff, thanks! I sure can use a wiring diagram do!!! Many thanks!!!

@deckchair
Can you please help me to explain the next sentence: "there's a wire link shown at connector C at the engine bay control unit B1 from pins 12 to 8 in supplying the relay latching power."

what are pins 8 - 12?

Hi i had a simular problem it started with the message "fuel level sensor failure" after 2sec fuel gauge would move and car would start
then it was "loose connection" and car would not start at all ,so with help from deckchair and pnl traced the first fault to a earth wire on the fuel reset switch
So had it in to my local fiat garage for a check over and he found fault at crank case sensor
This is what he told me
If the crank case sensor is faulty or on its way out it can interupt the signal to the fuel pump even with the car running ,saying that it will stop the pump from supply fuel due to lack of signal or an incorrect signal
He tells me that the crank case sensor is the first link, ?when the signal is interupted the ecu does not know the car is running and stops delivering a spark and fuel and causing lots of intermittent failures to pop up
I know from the op that it was changed but it could be a combination ,and i also notice others having this problem but only on low fuel ?

That's interestiing and I can see how that would take out the fuel pump power supply

@deckchair
Can you please help me to explain the next sentence: "there's a wire link shown at connector C at the engine bay control unit B1 from pins 12 to 8 in supplying the relay latching power."



Sure, there's a connector C on the engine bay control unit panel B1 in the engine bay and in that connector is a jumper link between pins 12 and 8.


Connector C Pins 8 to 12 link shown

I'd remove relay T9 and check and clean the contacts. Check for any interruption to power at relay T9 contact 86. Check if there's any problem with relay connection 86 up to the ECU (M10 shown in the wiring diagram)

A bad contact at Fuse F16 would have the same effect

pm me your email and I can send wiring diagrams

T14086 said:

or stilo battery cover?

Click to expand...

Not contributed to this thread yet but T's post just reminded me.

Last year I was using my Stilo without the battery and engine covers for a few days. Went through a car wash and 50 yards later engine cut out and dash board lit up like a Christmas tree. Car started after several attempts and I managed to get it home but it cut out again several times during the 1 mile trip.

When I read the codes, there were lots of them, including fuel pump and several others as posted above.

I couldn't see any water around the engine fuse box but when I pulled the fuel pump relay there was a slight trace of water on one of the terminals. Took the fuse box apart and there was water everywhere. I had to remove all the metal terminals inside the box to dry it out.

Fitted it all back together, car started first time and no more problems. Deleted all the codes and they never came back again.

It strikes me that several of the fault codes listed above relate to circuits that pass through the engine fuse box and the D4 connector below it. :chin:

Dave.

All coming back to engine bay control unit panel B1 then. For the problem of engine cutting out to happen after 8 mins of driving is more like a dry joint/poor contact causing an open circuit rather than water which causes short circuits

and don't use power car washes without the right protective covers

Changed the T9 relay, but when removing the relay the car give no worning signals so that couldn't be the problem. The engine just dies. On the other hand the fuse F16 is a real show stopper, when i pull that one out is dies with al alarm bels ringing. But not with the Abs, esp failure! So that is strange. I put in al new fuses and one relay, but no chance so far. Really hate it because in the beginning of the drive it looks great, everything running perfect. Then without any warning the engine cuts, really dangerous in traffic. I hate driving in the car!!

OK Back to basics.
Have you checked the battery to engine earth as in Stilo Guides?

What actually happens when the engine dies? Does it splutter, struggle or is it just like turning off the engine at the ignition?
What warning lights come up then?
What happens on the dashboard when it cuts out?
Does it cut out the same if you leave the engine idling for that length of time?
Have you done any engine modifications? Like LPG?
The more info the better

Samuell1 said:

I hate driving in the car!!

Click to expand...

take it to another garage then, theres one simple test (dealer only) that would go along way (in this case I reckon 90%) to pinpointing the fault.

@deckchair
The situation is: I drive the car and i can feel it coming up i think, the car seems to hold a seconds, and then struggles 1/4 second and cuts out. The car is throwing up many faults and after turned off the ignition switch and on again the car won't start. The diffrence is that the car security symbol is on. It won't start but sometimes after a few turns it wil start, but dies a few seconds later on idle. Then a few turns later it wil start again and if i rev it up, it won't die or that's what i think. This time i spend a little more attention on the instruments and i saw my rpm and speed fall down, come up and down in a split second.

I tested the earth on the battery, and that's fine. But are there more earth points to check?

The car is not modified, just a basic 1.6 16v.

"take it to another garage then, theres one simple test (dealer only) that would go along way (in this case I reckon 90%) to pinpointing the fault."
What test are you talking about?

Ok I'd go for earth point C15 next.That's the body computer earth and will give immobiliser abs and speed and rpm drop out and can failure

Samuell1 said:

"take it to another garage then, theres one simple test (dealer only) that would go along way (in this case I reckon 90%) to pinpointing the fault."
What test are you talking about?

Click to expand...

I did say 'dealer only'

Now that's odd
I've just experienced a "Loose connection" / ABS and anti skid warning/ speedometer drop out. It must be contagious

But mine will be the main battery earth I suspect

I've also got an 1.6 from 2002. Back in 2006 it got symtoms like this, but not really stalling - it was close, but I managed. Fiat Norway sent their Stilo guy from another part of the country down (as the garage here wasn't experienced enough). Turned out to be a fried ECU, so they ordered and installed a new one for free (car was over 4 years old). Thanks to FIAT. Got it aligned with my dash and wohooo! been 100% since.

It started with "loose connection" one morning and went downhill from there - pretty fast. :yuck:

@T14086
I asked it so i can take the car to a dealer and ask fot that specific test. Otherwise they surge everything and same story, we don't know. Is there a test to check the engine computer?

On a other forum i read about the possibility of a alternator failure, so with al the electronics asking much energy a clich in power could set the whole system in panic.

You really aren't going to get anywhere very fast by stabbing at things in the dark.

If not the ECU then the problem is VERY HIGHLY likely to be connected to either a poor connection or intermittent short (which unless you're aware of any prior events which might provide causation then it will highly likely be due to corrosion). All of these suggestions have already been made to you.

If you want to move forward with logical analysis then your need to start taking careful voltage readings during the fault condition as I (and others) have already suggested to you.

If you bothered to read that link I posted for you then you'll see it is possible to come a successful conclusion, when all hope has almost been lost, even if it might involve an almighty slog in the process. The more info you can provide then the more we can help

Did you ever get to the bottom of this?