Hello there
I am wondering if somebody could be kind enough to post a step by step guide or just some general information on how to change my rear brake pads on my 1.6 Stilo as they are wearing pretty thin.
Also is it possible to change them by yourself without the fiat wind back tool
Any help would be greatly appreciated

I think Argo just postd up a link to that one..

https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-technical/85765-rear-brake-caliper-wind-back-tool.html

Can be done very easily without the correct tool if your reasonably good at mechanics

Thanks for the reply very helpful. Just wondering if there is any tips on what to do and what to be careful with with regards to changing the pads

Remember to put everything back where it came from, open the master cylinder bottle top before you push the pistons back (to allow they system to breathe - you may want to put some rag in the top to avoid making a mess), put copper slip on the back of your pads to stop them seizing, and most of all, have fun

Not to worry about the above, new to the forum and just realised there are 7 pages of info!

Thanks very much for your help just one more thing what way do i wind them? the drivers side winds in clockwise and the kurbs side anti clockwise is this correct?

Drivers side clockwise and passengers side anti clockwise..roger ..another way to remember is ..rotate the wheel as if the car is driving forward and it works out the same ..passengers side [spin the wheel to the left]= anti clock wise and the same on the drivers side spin the wheel to the right [as it would driving forward ]= clockwise..I hope that aint confused you .. I use an old hypo to remove any surplus brake fluid from the master cylinder and another thing to look out for is on the back pads there is a dimple that mates up the pad to the pison [dimple to recess]if you dont locate them together the pads wont sit correctly..

i may need a hand soon MR PNL , as the lovely mintex are squealing like a good'un and they barley stop the car

i need to do the lot, discs and pads, it'll be red-dot, but it all depends on how much fitting will be

PNL said:

Drivers side clockwise and passengers side anti clockwise..roger ..another way to remember is ..rotate the wheel as if the car is driving forward and it works out the same ..passengers side [spin the wheel to the left]= anti clock wise and the same on the drivers side spin the wheel to the right [as it would driving forward ]= clockwise..I hope that aint confused you .. I use an old hypo to remove any surplus brake fluid from the master cylinder and another thing to look out for is on the back pads there is a dimple that mates up the pad to the pison [dimple to recess]if you dont locate them together the pads wont sit correctly..

Click to expand...

Hi just completed a full disc and pad replacement on my Stilo JTD Multiwagon. fronts fine, one rear Ok after a brief run to settle in, but the passenger side rear is binding badly and overheating. I have stripped it three times and re-assembled without success, which is a bit worrying. I do not understand the reference to 'dimple', do you mean the 'peg' which I thought was to retain the anti-squeal shim? If you do mean this, then that means that you have to ensure the piston and its 'slots' is rotated to align with this peg? Is that correct? Any help/advice welcome as I have ground to a halt and don't want to fry the wheel bearing, and I really would rather not have to take to Fiat and explain and pay - having got this far!

Bradfordman,
Your assumption is correct, you have to make sure the peg fits into one of the two slots otherwise the rearmost pad won't fit flat in the calliper.

Another possibility is a warped disc, i had that problem when i did my rears but that was more obvious with a slight pulsing in the brake pedal when driving.

Did the piston on the side in question rotate in without problems? sounds like it is sticking in. Have you completely removed/unscrewed the piston from the calliper and cleaned it?

minimad99 said:

Bradfordman,
Your assumption is correct, you have to make sure the peg fits into one of the two slots otherwise the rearmost pad won't fit flat in the calliper.

Another possibility is a warped disc, i had that problem when i did my rears but that was more obvious with a slight pulsing in the brake pedal when driving.

Did the piston on the side in question rotate in without problems? sounds like it is sticking in. Have you completely removed/unscrewed the piston from the calliper and cleaned it?

Click to expand...

OK. [All discs new and all pads new - bought from an on line E-bay shop in Manchester at a very good price]
I took it all apart again, and sure enough, neither of the two rounded 'slots' in the piston top were aligned with the peg on the back of the brake pad. Carefully rotating the piston anticlock again [with my home made clamp in place] so one slot would align, and reassembling everything, not only did it all go back together easier, but the disc now rotates with minimum drag. After a test drive the disc is just warm, so all appears to now be OK.
I am relieved and just want to say a big thanks to you guys for the 'clue'!
This detail is very important to note for anybody changing out these Stilo back brakes, as it is not written up anywhere that I have found, and the misalignment cannot easily be viewed down the back of the brake disc when it is assembled.
Thanks again!

I made my own clamp from two bolts and a piece of quarter inch alli. plate with a cut out to clear the casting - happy to provide details if anyone needs it. You use the two holes on the caliper casting - carefully....
All these stories of huge amounts of force being needed, are worrying, as damage to braking gear is always bad news; the key is getting it started on the thread, then the force actually decreases as the piston winds in. The tricky bit is carefully gripping the edges of the piston end, [NOT the side of the piston face!] with a mole wrench to provide the turning effort, which with limited clearance needs patience, as the amount you can turn each go, is small. Run the piston out first with the handbrake lever on the back of the casting, and clean it before re-assembly too, but make sure it is aligned with the bore when you start applying clamp pressure.

Glad you got it sorted