Technical Radio Switched Feeds

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Technical Radio Switched Feeds

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Joined
Mar 5, 2007
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Location
West Yorkshire
Hi guys,

I’m installing a new headunit/DVD player into my car (Kenwood DDX7029 with ipod, TV and Bluetooth!) and from doing a bit of research it seems the Stilo is not wired up to ISO standard on the radio wiring, and that it does not have a switch ignition power feed (only constant from the battery). Is this correct?

This means that the radio will be powered up even when the keys are out of the ignition, which could mean I’ll get back to the car with a flat battery!

So, where’s the best place to pick up a switched feed from in the Stilo that is in close proximity to the radio? Behind the streaming column? Heater controls?

Does anyone know how much draw/amps the radio needs for the switched feed. Will any switched circuit do?

Also, I’d like to use the radio when the car is off, with no keys. If I were to use a switched feed, will I be able to do this?

Cheers
Matt :D
 
I installed a simillar unit last week.

What i have done with mine is hard wire it. Removed the original stilo block, and used a connecter block to connect the new head unit wires to the wires from the stilo. Ive paired the yellow and red together . Now from what i gather this isnt draining my battery when engine is off as ive not drove my car since installed it and it has started ok this morning, (4 days in total). it will power up when there is no key in the ignition also.
 
I installed a simillar unit last week.

What i have done with mine is hard wire it. Removed the original stilo block, and used a connecter block to connect the new head unit wires to the wires from the stilo. Ive paired the yellow and red together . Now from what i gather this isnt draining my battery when engine is off as ive not drove my car since installed it and it has started ok this morning, (4 days in total). it will power up when there is no key in the ignition also.



Cheers, but I don’t really want to risk having my battery drained by the radio, especially when I use the car for work and I leave it a lot at airports for 5+days at a time.

Anyone, got any ideas to get a switched 12v feed?

Cheers :)
 
technically , there is no reason why the way ive done it would drain the battery , its wired as if the original head unit is still connected. there is no power being drawn from the battery unless i turn the unit on. except via the yellow wire which is providing the memory which it still would using a switching block.

Spoke to one of our sparks at work who reckons the same.

alothough i will be keeping an i eye on this thread incase someone says different , lol (y)
 
wat mrHammy has done is create a permanent live feed to the radio. nw in theory thats alrite bt it done my head in when i had to switch my radio on and off every time i entered/exited the car. it will drain the battery quicker as youve two feeds coming off the radio constantly so the radio is permanently on.
im not sure how much amps the ignition feed needs, mine isnt fused but to my recollection both power circuts run through the fuse on the back of the head unit as a last resort so shud be alrite, all you need is the 12V ignition feed. i gave ya the link in the other thread and a better explanation :p
 
My stereo is always on too - i left it for 3 weeks and it started ok, but came up with Alternator failure, which disapeared after a few seconds. Yet the battery light didnt come on.

Am going to spain for a month soon, so will see what its like when I get back!
 
there is an easy way, run a cable to the fuse box, i used the cigar lighter fuse to power mine (but any will do that only operate with the ignition ie lights wipers etc etc etc). All i done was remove the fuse (check your hand book for number as i cant remember) and put the lead on the blade of the fuse then inserted it (using an voltmeter check which side is live when the fuse is out then put the lead the dead side so the cable is protected by the fuse). Been fine for months now and the stereo goes on and off with the ignition.
roy
 
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