Hey all

i have had an issue with the boot open warning appearing every single time i turn the key, the warning sounds as i set off and the boot open light remains on continuously.

The boot is most deffinatley locked , so i am guessing it is some form of sensor issue or such like.

my model is an '02' plate stilo JTD115 dynamic

thanks for reading

jimmy

The sensor is in the boot lock itself, well actually there's two sensors in there, one to tell the body computer to turn on the boot light if you have one and the other for the boot open warning to the body computer warnings and alarm circuit


Should be light blue/black wire AN from switch to body computer for warnings and alarms. Should be purple and black ZN for the switch to ground wire so make sure this is good to earth

I think most people have needed to change the whole lock but, if you don't have a boot light, I'd be tempted to swop the wire over from terminal 1 to the other sensor at terminal 3 at the lock.

Poor adjustment can cause this - it's the case that even though it's mechanically closed, the switch doesn't read it as so.

See if adjusting the striker on the body of the car helps.

It's not so much the boot is shut but the sensor doesn't notice, the boot lock is very similar to the other door locks in that there's "on the catch" and then further in to fully closed, so your boot can feel locked but it's just on the catch and not fully locked.

To test, open the boot and use a similar sized shanked screwdriver to the boot striker bar.

Then just push the screwdriver bar sideways into the door catch, you'll feel it click once but then push it again further to click it to fully locked. (You can release it again after the test with the little lever on the side of the catch)

Check your dash then and see if the boot open warning is gone, if it's still on then it's a sensor problem. If it goes out then the sensors are fine and, like Rich says, adjust the striker plate so the lock goes to fully locked when the boot is closed

thank you for your info, i did try the screwdriver trick, as well as removing the striker plate and pushing it into the boot catch and the warning light did not go off or even flicker.

i have not yet tried the wiring checks yet as i could not work out how to remove the black plastic panel that covers the entire boot door. i did find two screws recessed into a handle type thing, but was unable to remove the panel

any thoughts on where i am going wrong?

Ok more tests.
Do you have a boot light (some models don't). If you do, this is fired by the same switch assembly

Here's a wiring diag
Boot switch is I11 (Click to enlarge)

I'd check that the boot switch had a good connection to earth that's pin 2 and wire shown here is NZ which is Black/purple. If there's no good earth then it'll never think the boot is closed. So multimeter on resistance and check for near zero between pin 2 and a good earth. If not then check the wiring path and connector to earth.

Next is check the feed from the same switch to the body computer wire colour AN that's from Pin 1 and wire should be Blue/black. See if it goes to earth when you do the screwdriver trick. If not then that switch circuit is duff

Check if the other terminal (No.3 ) goes to earth too, if it does then maybe you could use this instead if you don't have a boot light


Boot panel is secured by these two screws and then,ideally, you need one of those trim removing tools to release the spring clips all the way around

This is really annoying me now. It never used to happen, only if i did a really sharp right tuen would the beep beep beep go off warning me that the trunk was open. I cured it by a stamp on the brakes!

Past few days though, it goes off constantly, every little bump or turn in the road, beep beep F*****G beep! Its so damn annoying and no amount of hard breaking will fix it this time. Its like its on the verge of being fully closed but not quite, so every little bump causes it to go crazy.

I've stuck a screwdriver in postion of the striker plate, sometimes it works perfectly, other times its still not quite in place. Tried adjusting the striker plate too and i even wedged some paper underneath it to bring the striker plate up a little bit and i thought it cured it. Maybe needs to be a little bit higher. Other than that, its really pissin me off.

Do a search and you should find lots of information and pictures of the microswitches -2 of them- inside the boot lock mechanism. The striker plate adjusts the fitment of the door and that's all

Its become a serious problem now. 24hrs not starting the engine and its got a flat battery because the boot light is on. Had to get it jump started.

I've tried removing the rear panel to access the boot lock before but i was scared of breaking it. Is there a specific tool that can easily unclip it instead of a long screwdriver?

And if i can't fix it, would a new boot lock be the best bet and how much roughly...

Well get to it then, no slacking.

Rear panels are slightly different for 3, 5 door and multiwagon but this one is held with two centre screws and these poppers around the outside. You can make a tool out of some 1" wide strip of steel bar if you want, 10p from any steel merchants. Just drill a hole 2" in from the end a little bigger than the fasteners stem and saw down in a v shape to make a fork then you can lever out the poppers better. Handy for catching snakes too







A whole catch is pretty expensive compared to just bending the little microswitch arm or putting a drop of superglue on top of the switch plunger

Thank you very much, the pics make it alot easier to deal with. I've bought one of those trim removers off ebay for £3.

Its strange though because i refitted the boot with LED lighting so i wouldn't of thought it would drain out the battery in 24hrs. Plus it normally goes out after about 5 mins or so.

Once i get that tool, i hope it makes everything a doddle and no more warnings!

Thanks again Deck's.

Help please! I can't get the microswitch out... Anyone?

Edit, have broken it off now...

So the micro switch arm has been bent back a little and is now held in place with some sponge. Put everything back together and it seemed to be fixed. 5 mins later i went to open the boot... and ! Its not fixed it.

It seems to have a mind of its own. Even when the car was jus sat onthe driveway and i turned the key to power up the battery, the warning still flickers every now and then.

I've had look on that technical diagram but it looks very confusing. Is there not a way to bypass the microswich completely, like to cut it out and just join the 2 wires together so its always connected?

Ok it gets worse. My brother gave me a hand and bypassed the microswitch altogether so the boot was run with just the one main switch. Open and close. It seemed to be ok but it still goes off. So he told me to unplug the boot lock altogether. I took off from the drive way and...BEEP BEEP BEEP, trunk open! Its not even plugged in though!

I was going to get a new boot lock but i don't think thats the problem... Please help Deckchair. I need your wisdom :worship:.

Dear me. Having fun?

Ok The boot switch supplies path to earth when the boot is open so, theoretically, if the boot switch is disconnected then there is no earth and the body computer should think the boot is always shut and never give any boot open warnings

So if you're still getting boot open warnings when you have completely disconnected the boot switch then you have a problem elsewhere with a wire going to earth when it shouldn't be

There's 2 circuits going to the boot switch, one works the boot light and the other does the boot open warnings through the body computer. For the moment take the bulb out of the boot light as that will chop that circuit and stop any problems there interfering with your tests

See if that makes any difference as then you'll know more of where your problem lies

You're a genius deckchair. However its been snowing like a b***h outside and i don't want to do it now.

Speaking of the boot light, i replaced the standard bulb in mine with 40 leds on either side. They never worked properly when plugged in normally so i fitted a load resistor. To be quite honest, i don't think i did a very good job of installing it but it was ages ago and i haven't checked it since.

Majority of the warnings are when i turn right. I will definately have to look into it. Thanks for the valuable advice.

And no, its not very fun lol...

I salute you oh Mighty Deckchair! :worship:

I took a quick look at my boot light wiring and true to form, one side of the LED load resistor was making contact with the car body. That'll teach me to do a cowboy job!

Only thing is, with all the messing around with the microswitch, its gone and fallen off because the wires were twisted a bit too much. Should i re-solder it on or just join the wires together and bypass the switch completely so its constantly on. Would this affect anything?

As electrics is obviously your strong point now I'd fix it when you have time

You might want to know your boot is not closed properly one day

Switch has been fixed and put back in position, the load resistor was moved away from the car body and now its perfect. I wish i asked for help sooner so i wouldn't of had to gone through the torture of beep beep BEEP!

Thanks again Deckchair.

hi, sorry i know this is an old thread, but i had a similar problem and managed to fix it by removing the striker plate and turning it around, the bar is at a slight angle and turning it round made it stick out a little further, this made the dash light stay off most of the time but it would still beep occasionally, then i added the striker with a few loops of electrical tape, no problems since. Just wanted to share that in case anyone else had the same issue. x