I did this a while ago and just found the pics. Just a rough guide, not sure on spanner ssizes, but all tools needed are from a normal tool kit. A set of sockets, etc.
Now, why change brake discs? Well I changed mine because the discs were scored, worn wel down and tatty looking. I installed a set of Mintex discs and pads, this is how my brakes looked before the change.
And new disc next to old!
Well, first things first, jack up your car, and remove the wheels.
Then, look carefully at the brake assembly in front of you.
Undo the 2 big bolts at the rear of the caliper, and ease the caliper off of the pads. The whole lot slide sideways off the disc. The pads should stay in the caliper carrier. On the passenger side, there is a pad wear sensor, this needs unclipping before you can pull off the caliper.
Then string up the caliper using some string, or some wire, or some zip ties like this
You'll notice the caliper piston is right out of the caliper. This needs pushing back in. Some bods do it by hand. I use ahuge G clamp. just slowly ease the piston back into the caliper slowly, it only needs to go back until the piston head is about level with the inside of the caliper body.
Now the caliper is swinging free, and the piston is pushed back, next you need to remove the old pads and bin them.
Next, off comes the caliper carrier. This is bolted on with 2 big menacing bolts that 'should' be replaced with new each time they are removed. In reality I reuse them, just pop a dab of thread lock on them before you screw them back in. These bolts will be mighty tight. I think they are 19 or 21mm heads, but a breaker bar, or a lot of muscle will be needed to shift them.
You can see them in this pic.
With the caliper carrier off, take the disc off. It may or may not still have a phillips head securing screw, or a pointy topped bolt. The screw/bolt isn't safety critical, but keeps the disc holes lined up with the hub holes to help in putting the wheel bolts back in! Take time to clean off everything with brake cleaner, or degreaser. Use a wire brush on the hub face, it should be nice and flat with no rusty lumpy bits.
Next, clean the shoney new disc thoroughly with brake cleaner and a clean cotton rag. I also clean the pad faces with the same to make sure no greasy toad in the packaging department has covered my pads in oil!, Then pop the new disc on, replace the little bolt/screw. Then pop the caliper carrier back on, lots of torque, and a dab of thread lock needed.
Then copper grease the caliper slides, the pad retaining clips and anything else that looks like it could squeal (metal on metal that will move. Obviously nowhere near pads or discs!) Then pop the new pads in the caliper carrier. Slather the pad backs with copper grease.
When its all put together it should look like this.
Last step is pop the caliper over the pads. Remember to copper grease the sliding pins that connect the caliper to the carrier. They don't actually fix the caliper, they allow the caliper to slide back and forth, so lots of grease on them as they go back in. A put a dab of thread lock on the bolt threads as they go back in, I shouldn't but I do, old habit.
Hope this is of use.
Cheers
Andy
Thats it.
Now, why change brake discs? Well I changed mine because the discs were scored, worn wel down and tatty looking. I installed a set of Mintex discs and pads, this is how my brakes looked before the change.
And new disc next to old!
Well, first things first, jack up your car, and remove the wheels.
Then, look carefully at the brake assembly in front of you.
Undo the 2 big bolts at the rear of the caliper, and ease the caliper off of the pads. The whole lot slide sideways off the disc. The pads should stay in the caliper carrier. On the passenger side, there is a pad wear sensor, this needs unclipping before you can pull off the caliper.
Then string up the caliper using some string, or some wire, or some zip ties like this
You'll notice the caliper piston is right out of the caliper. This needs pushing back in. Some bods do it by hand. I use ahuge G clamp. just slowly ease the piston back into the caliper slowly, it only needs to go back until the piston head is about level with the inside of the caliper body.
Now the caliper is swinging free, and the piston is pushed back, next you need to remove the old pads and bin them.
Next, off comes the caliper carrier. This is bolted on with 2 big menacing bolts that 'should' be replaced with new each time they are removed. In reality I reuse them, just pop a dab of thread lock on them before you screw them back in. These bolts will be mighty tight. I think they are 19 or 21mm heads, but a breaker bar, or a lot of muscle will be needed to shift them.
You can see them in this pic.
With the caliper carrier off, take the disc off. It may or may not still have a phillips head securing screw, or a pointy topped bolt. The screw/bolt isn't safety critical, but keeps the disc holes lined up with the hub holes to help in putting the wheel bolts back in! Take time to clean off everything with brake cleaner, or degreaser. Use a wire brush on the hub face, it should be nice and flat with no rusty lumpy bits.
Next, clean the shoney new disc thoroughly with brake cleaner and a clean cotton rag. I also clean the pad faces with the same to make sure no greasy toad in the packaging department has covered my pads in oil!, Then pop the new disc on, replace the little bolt/screw. Then pop the caliper carrier back on, lots of torque, and a dab of thread lock needed.
Then copper grease the caliper slides, the pad retaining clips and anything else that looks like it could squeal (metal on metal that will move. Obviously nowhere near pads or discs!) Then pop the new pads in the caliper carrier. Slather the pad backs with copper grease.
When its all put together it should look like this.
Last step is pop the caliper over the pads. Remember to copper grease the sliding pins that connect the caliper to the carrier. They don't actually fix the caliper, they allow the caliper to slide back and forth, so lots of grease on them as they go back in. A put a dab of thread lock on the bolt threads as they go back in, I shouldn't but I do, old habit.
Hope this is of use.
Cheers
Andy
Thats it.
