Hi guys, Alfa owning brother here, the Mrs has decided she can't learn in a Manual so I set out to find her an auto and a selecta MK1 Punto came up at £350, I did the one thing a car guy should never do and bought it unseen and am getting it transported here due to the Covid-19 crisis, but she needed a car, this ain't going away any time soon and I'm an absolute sucker for cool old Italian cars so I bit the bullet hehe, we are excited to get hold of the little thing and from what I understand the 1.2 8v fire engine is a cracking bit of kit, good little noise for a four pot, non interference, one injector on this particular model, cambelt that take 30 minutes to change and head gaskets that can be done in 3 hours, really, why does this engine not get more widespread recognition? You can even get an air filter for a quid on ecp!

However, what I have read is that if this selecta box throws it's toys out the pram, you may find yourself in a bit of a pickle finding parts for it so if any of you guys could point me in the right direction of a working spare box, the electromagnetic clutch unit or any of the other miscellaneous selecta bits and pieces I may but hopefully won't need I would be very grateful

Thanks in advance guys ??

Hello Sam, there is a lot of (unfair) bad publicity surrounding the Selecta transmission. It is generally highly reliable, having been designed in Holland and manufactured in Japan. Any issues are usually driver or 'mechanic' induced. Absolutely essential to use only the correct oil. If there is a weak point it's the tiny split ring on the oil pump drive shaft that lets go. This causes immediate loss of drive. The gearbox has to come out to replace the 2 pence part! I'm certain that a number of Selectas have been scrapped because of this. The powder clutch doesn't last forever, and is unobtainable, but the fact that there are 40 or so Punto Selectas still on the road speaks volumes, as all are at least 20 years old. I have a spare box in good working condition, but no powder clutch. Regards Richard

Forgot to mention this same box was fitted to the Nissan Micra, and Subaru Justy, so Japan may be a good source for parts.

Hi Sam, thank you for bringing this matter up.

I wish to ask for George's help. I own a Selecta 1.2 Cabrio and having a problem with gearbox. I bought two more gearboxes, same spec and they were working okay initially but at last ending with gear not engaged. And the bulb for gearbox problem lighted up on the tacho.

As you mentioned, there is 'the tiny split ring on the oil pump drive shaft that lets go', could you guide me by pinpointing :


1. where actually this ring sits in the system.

2. Is it made of rubber or steel ring?

My Cabrio is now moving around the house for a year just by luck. Sometimes the gear is engaged but most of the time, it's not. It's lovely to see her running back on the road


I enclosed here the photo of my gearboxes.

Thank you.

Luqluq

Hello Luqluq

The spilt ring that fails is on the oil pump drive shaft - that's the shaft you can see in your pictures, it's steel, BUT this is not your problem, as there will be no drive at all if this has failed. If you slide the shaft out of the gearbox, you will see a small groove for the ring, if you need to exert pressure to remove the shaft, the ring is intact.

i imagine you have checked the carbon brushes, so i can only suggest an ecu scan to determine the exact fault. Is the powder clutch OK? - does the engine rev but the car doesn't move?

impressed you have been able to buy gearboxes - are they from breakers?

regards Richard

Sorry, Luqluq, looking more closely at your photos, I cannot see the drive shaft, which might be still attached to the engine? check this shaft first, see the picture with previous post. regards richard

close-up photo.

Dear Richie,

Thanks a lot for your good explanations and I appreciate them a lot.

I've checked all the three the carbon brushes and they looked fine with still a lot of mileage expectancy from the wear.

About the powder clutch, that's an area that I'm not very familiar with but from my observation, visually all 3 of them are looking intact.


The first one that the reason that I made the replacement was: the gearbox was working but sometimes some grinding sound came out that they scared out my wife and me too.

So I acquired the 2nd gearbox which was working fine initially. After couple of years, it didn't want to engage anymore.

So I managed to acquire the third which was working fine in the beginning but after a year, it worked intermittently. Sometimes it wants to engage but most of the time are not. And whenever it engaged, the gearbox light on the tachometer will be illuminated.


And yes as you asked, I bought all of them from breakers.

Once again, thanks a lot your for your guides .... If you have any other information, I will be delighted to hear that.


Luqluq

Wahhhh!!! My apology, I thought that you were sending a picture of a pen and a note paper until I realized that it's the tip of a drive shaft .... Thank's a lot Richie ...

Hi Luquq, please check the drive shaft, and make sure the ring is intact.

With regard to the powder clutch, you cannot check visually; you can use a multimeter, but it doesn't sound like this is your problem. You would have had a revving engine and little or no movement - exactly like a slipping clutch on a manual vehicle.
regards Richard

Hello again Richie,

Thanks a lot for the response and kind lead that I can see the picture clearer.
In regards to the checking with multimeter, any range of reading would you advice for me to check?
And yes it's true, it's kind of engaged/not engaged for the behaviour of a failed manual transmission.

Your pictures again brought me laughs, they were nicely taken that they fit for a gallery and not a mechanical guide.


Luqluq

Hello Luqluq, I'm really not sure about the symptons.

Is the ring on the shaft intact -as per the picture? I would expect the shaft to come out with the gearbox - is it still inserted in the engine?

With regard to the powder clutch, if it is shot, then the engine will rev, and the car will not move, or very very slowly.
I'm not expert with multimeter use, but the instructions for checking the clutch are:
turn the driven element by means of the slip rings, and check that the bearing is not noisy or rough.
inspect slip rings for burning or other damage.
check resistance of clutch windings, using an ohmmeter connected across the slip rings. the resistance should be (at 20 degrees C) 2-4 ohms
check insulation of the windings, using an ohmmeter connected between either slip ring and the body of the clutch. Resistance should be infinity.

regards Richard

Thanks a lot again Richie for your kind guides.

I did the inspection on the two gearboxes magnetic clutch (is it the right term?).

These two are coming from:
1. My original Cabrio (the one at the bottom)
2. 4 door ELX from the breaker (the one at the top).

The one from my Cabrio does have a loose connection and the clip that you did mention looks worn out. I enclosed here the pictures of them (pardon me they're not taken professionally as yours).

But the one from the 4 Door ELX seems tight. I still remember but, last times used, it was giving me a problem too: same symptom, not engaged.

Anyway, after thinking for a little while, I decided to send the car to the workshop and I did explained the information you gave to the chief mechanic there and he seems understand for the explanation.

So hopefully, things turn to be alright after this. And I do thank you a lot for your kind assistance Richard as the information given sheds some light from the tunnel.

Luqluq

Good to hear Luqluq. Really hope your cabrio is back on the road soonest - these cars need to be used and enjoyed. please advise when known. Regards Richard

Thank you very much Richard ... Hopefully she'll be running again just like the good days before. I'll update once she's roadworthy. Thanks a lot for your guides too ...

Luqluq