General my £200 '95 Mk1 75sx 'Paddy Punto'

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General my £200 '95 Mk1 75sx 'Paddy Punto'

Much appreciated cheers chaps

Small unrelated problem yesterday while leaving work, brake warning light didn't turn off when I dropped the handbrake to set off. Drove on for a few seconds and it was still on, so popped the bonnet and checked the brake fluid, down very low. Luckily had a bottle in the boot so topped it up, checked around the clutch slave cylinder (that I've had to bleed a few times before) and there is some signs of 'dampness' just under the rubber boot. Will keep an eye on the fluid level, but probably a replacement slave cylinder due soon.
 
Another update, few bits & bobs done last weekend

Transmission/gearbox oil/fluid change, was cheap so thought I might as well, and had no proof of when it was last changed (Haynes manual recommends 80k miles, I'm on the brink of 130k!)

8mm hex drain plug round the back, bit of a stretch as the car wasn't jacked up too high (trying to keep it level on the drive)
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Old oil coming out, was a brown/golden colour and didn't look too bad to me, so was probably changed at 80k, new oil is golden yellow.
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Siphon pump I picked up for a few quid (TK Maxx) i thought might be handy, and the Zutela oil
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Oil filling system in place, have to take it quite slow as the oil is thick compared to petrol/water, had one of the hoses pop out when plunging too hard and got a nice sploosh of oil all over the place!
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Just under 2 bottles in and put the plug back in when the oil just about stopped overflowing. Overall not a difficult job, but back on the road there's no noticeable difference, some gears are still a bit stiff to select at times which is a shame but oh well!

New coolant temperature sensor I ordered from ECP during a sale, temp readings on the dash haven't 'settled' as high as they used to since I last put the cylinder head back on (never goes over 1/4 of the dial) so thought this might help.
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I'd rounded off the existing one before when trying to remove it with an adjustable spanner to bring the cylinder head off for repair, not realiseing I could just unplug the connector and leave it in! :bang: This time I used a pair of vice grips since I would be replacing it anyway and eventually got it out (was in veryyyyy tight)
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New sensor installed, plugged in and no change to the temperature reading from the old sensor! At least the new one only cost me £6 haha
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Sunday I popped off the drivers side wiper arm to bend it slightly inwards, as the wiper wasn't getting contact with the windscreen in the middle. WHile I was there I popped off the scuttle panel to see what was under it (suspected lost tools/bolts over the years!) and also check if my 75sx had a pollen filter, which it does and looks to be the original as well
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and the gunk I found in the drain holes in the chassis that drips water though the engine bay (black circular pot on each side in the pics above), managed to scrape most of it out so should stop water dripping on exhaust etc when it rains (+5 weight reduction)
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In other news the engine is running terribly at the moment, rough idle most of the time, stuttering and lurching on light throttle and the 'self revving' happens every so often. Saw a long thread on this issue in the Mk2 section but going to swap my Throttle Position Sensor back to the old one I replaced a while ago and see if that helps, also remove the Idle Control Valve and give it a clean. Brake cleaner down the channel didn't help.

The adventure continues!
 
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Yeah sorry for the lack of updates, busy times with work and holidays etc, but all good at the moment!

First off for a bit of entertainment value, behold my botched fix on the exhaust of my parents Nissan Almera Tino. It had a bad exhaust leak for a couple of weeks that was annoying them and probably neighbours (but I would have killed for an exhaust sound like it :slayer:). I couldn't pinpoint it at first a few weeks ago but then they rang me with stories of clanging. Turns our the flange connection to the back box had completely rusted through, and after some late-evening grappling and swearing I managed to get them mated up and somewhat sealed with the help of some jubilee clips and 2 tool hanging brackets :cool:

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Before you get the pitchforks out, they're due to pick up a new car (Quashqai) next week, so only needs to hold on til then!

Punto related stuff to follow....
 
So up until going on holiday the Punto had been continuing to run poorly - jerking throttle, revving to red line in traffic on its own etc., and I had the old Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and Idle Control Valve (ICV) that I replaced previously ready to switch back in to see if that would solve the problem.

Back from holiday and with Monday off work I went to reverse the Punto out of the driveway slightly to get cracking, and the Punto yet again had a floppy clutch pedal and wouldn't get in gear. Checked under the bonnet and observed fluid under the Clutch Slave Cylinder, and after the previous times of just bleeding the clutch again I knew it was time to bite the bullet and replace it.

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So looked up ECP with no luck but gave Ricambio a call (based in Carshalton, South London) and after they had a check of their shelves they had 3 in stock :worship: so drove the 20 mins down with my dad to pick it up. I've gotta say it's a fantastic little store and an absolute treasure trove of Fiat Parts, new slave cylinder and some brake fluid came to £40 with a couple of free stickers. If you're ever down there take a look, decent online store as well:
http://www.ricambio.co.uk/ (not endorsing them officially :p)
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Anyway, didn't have my Haynes manual to hand but it was a pretty simple replacement, vice grips and some cardboard on the hydraulic line and then bolt off bolt on. Bit of copper grease on the 'end pin' as well to keep things from seizing.

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Bled the clutch on my own (properly I think), battery tray and all back in and clutch is back to normal (y)
 
So once that was handled I went back to my original task and switched out the TPS for the old one I removed off the car maybe a year ago, when I was attempting to solve my rough idle problems (in the end caused by a inlet manifold leak)
Glad to report that this solved my problem instantly. Engine now fires up and sits around 1200rpm for a minute or 2 before dropping to a steady 950ish, no hunting or surging or coughing, smooth acceleration and no jerking on light throttle. Been fine now for the last week.

My next job, which was a rare bit of fun nice-to-do rather than repair work, was to install an oil catch can I bought off ebay a few weeks ago (£20). I was getting a lot of oil residue up the breather pipe and into the air box, so thought this might help keep the Idle Control Valve and Throttle from sticking, as well as help keep the cylinders clean.
Also - because racecar
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Probably the first bit of genuine machining/metal work I've done on the Punto, I drilled a hole into the side of the engine bay just under the strut tower and brake fluid reservoir (far left corner), to utilise an existing bolt/screw where the blue pipe is held before heading off to the carbon capture 'box' at the front.

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Just about managed to tap the hole with an adjustable wrench due to space constraints and used a M6 bolt and some rubber washers to mount bracket.
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I then went down to my local car parts shop (XL Motor Spares, New Malden) looking for some hoses/reducers/jubilee clips to plumb it all together. They told me to bring my car to the front of the shop and proceeded going through all their parts with me and helping me size up bits of hose and clips. After about an hour of tinkering with me and a bit of a chat out in the evening sun, they totaled up the parts we actually used, and with a pair of extra work gloves and not charging me for 2 small sections of air hose, they called it £10. I wanted to give a hefty tip or pay for their time but they just said to come down again with a few tinnies next time I'm around!
Was genuinely flabbergasted by their generosity and willingness to help, you don't get that these days with most mainstream parts places!

Anyway back home to connect the last few bits, and voila!
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As advised by the chaps, the amount of reducers and the height of the breather pipe out of the rocker cover should stop any oil reaching the air box now, and will mostly drip back down into the engine hopefully.

Quite blingy I know but happy with how it turned out, and it's been a while since I did something fun on the Punto!

Thoughts & comments appreciated, anyone else ever installed/had one on any car before?

Cheers
 
I would change the pipes myself, they look really tacky the crappy see through ones it came with. Other than that, I presume that cheap ebay one is just an empty can without any baffles or anything. I advise you fill it up with stainless steel wool/scouring pads - that will make it catch the actual oil particles much much better - nothing to really stop them just flowing straight through the empty can really. Ideally it should have a separator down the middle of it so the gases have to go down and under it, then have something meshy at the bottom the gas has to travel through to get to the other side - but just filling it with them stainless scourers will do almost as well.
 
yeah long term I'll be replacing with some black hose, but since they came with the catch can I knew they'd fit the connectors and I was curious to see what the transparent hoses started to look like after a few weeks of use. I can report that the hose from the rocker cover to the catch can has started to go a bit brown on the inside, and the second section to the air box is still clean, so signs are good.

I'd read up on potential catch can fillings but didn't have any scouring pads to hand when I installed it unfortunately (mum's was being used :p ) . I opened up the top cover anyway to have a look inside (and rotate the plate for fitment) and it is just any empty can with the drain plug at the bottom as expected. Contemplated fabricating some sort of plastic baffle, but think I'll just pick up some SS wool and chuck it in at some point (I also heard women's tights can be used haha :D )

Car running well anyway, calculated I got 45 MPG out of the last tank of fuel with a fair bit of long distance motorway driving, not too shabby
 
Quick update

back under the Punto on Saturday out in the sun, finally got round to tackling the sheared Anti Roll Bar mounting bolt that I broke probably more than a year ago.

Got the car up on the 2nd notch of my axle stands (nearly as high as the jack would go) to get a better look at things. Unfortunately with the brake assembly, shock absorber and CV boot all in the way, I would have had to take the whole lot apart to get good access with the cordless drill from above (not for lack of trying), so the only way to go was from below.

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Sitting on the floor facing the wheel assembly, I was drilling upwards towards myself (after making sure the initial entry was lined up). Started with a 2.5mm drill bit from my tap set, which after probably 30 minutes of drilling eventually snapped not far from the other side of the bolt. Moved on to 3mm and got through, then up to 5mm and finished with 6.3mm bit (IIRC) that came with my M6 helicoil set.
At this point I was aching after essentially doing 1 long heavy bicep curl pushing upwards into the bolt with the drill for maybe an hour, but finally done haha.

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Unfortunately due to me having to drill upwards from below using various sized drill bits, the hole wasn't 100% true and probably slightly cone shaped or something, which I realised once I started tapping. Basically the tap started threading crooked and didn't make it up and out the other end of the hole. I knew I wouldn't need the whole length as the helicoil insert is quite short, so screwed that in, broke off the tang and went looking for a bolt to fit.

Found a long M6 and chopped it to length (probably not the right material and the bolt head is tiny), and bolted up the ARB with a washer underneath. Only lightly screwed it in before dropping the car down and tightening it up, which was difficult as my socket kept slipping off, but all secured now (if slightly wonky!)

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In hindsight it didn't go as well as it could have, and using a stud extractor may have been the better way to go. After driving it since, the front end it actually making more noise, which I think could be down to the fact the ARB is now properly secured and the bushes are worn. Have measured up the bar and will be ordering some polyurethane bushes at some point.

Thoughts & comments welcome as always!
 
upon further inspection yesterday, it's no surprise the front end is knocking now - the ARB bush at the other side (RHS) is missing completely! New bushes to be ordered soon

In other news, been in contact with a chap on eBay for the last 2 weeks who's breaking a Panda 100hp, offered me the alloy wheels with 4 good tyres (2x Goodyear Eagle F1's) for £200. Lining up to collect them after the Easter weekend :slayer:

In other other news, had a few situations in the past month where the clutch has been slipping on hard acceleration. After reading up on clutch symptoms I've also confirmed my long-term suspicions that the Punto probably has clutch 'chatter' going on (and has done for nearly all the years I've had it). Been living with it up until now but will probably be looking to replace the clutch in the next few months.
 
I do love the panda 100hp wheels, think they will look sweet on a mk1 (y)

Clutch swaps are a pain, I hate doing them!! I've taken to just dropping the whole engine and box out to do it myself, well in a old fiat anyway as its so easy to get the thing out complete and so easy to take the box off and change the clutch as well. Well that is unless you are super strong and bench pressing a gearbox back on the engine is not a problem for you, I'm too weak for that lol; fwd boxes are so heavy, i guess its cause they have the diff as part of them. I have helped a mate at his off-road workshop do gearboxes in 4x4s and they all seem to have lighter boxes than these little fwd fiats haha.
But with the engine out it does gives you a chance to properly clean them, the gearbox and the bay as well so it goes back in all clean and shiny ;)
 
New wheels!

Had a few days off after the bank holiday weekend and had a productive day yesterday!

Picked up the eBay wheels late morning, a set of 4 Fiat Panda 100hp 15" alloys in pretty good nick. Some curbing to be expected (it was the chap's daughter who totaled the donor car) but they're 195/45/R15 with 2 of them bring Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres (directional?). After I got them home and cleaned them up they were looking great.

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While I had the front wheels off I went about taking the Anti Roll Bar completely off, as the bracket for the bush on the RHS had been completely mangled by the ARB since the bush fell out, making the bar effectively useless at the moment. Not a pretty sight

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After unbolting all the mounts I had to then unbolt the exhaust down pipe from the cat section to allow removal of the ARB. Bit of a tight squeeze and had to relocate my jack stands but in the end it wasn't too bad. Once removed, inner bushes don't actually look too bad compared to the horror of the outer ends

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And finally with all the new wheels on! :slayer:

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Personally I think they look fantastic with just the right fitment (looks better in the flesh), not getting any rubbing and can get to steering lock no problem. The road noise is a little higher (weird rumble around 30-40mph) and the ride is a little firmer/bumpier but not too much. I thought the steering would be a nightmare with the wider wheels, but it's not noticeably heavier than before.

One question I'd have would be around tyre pressures, should these still be inflated to 30-32 psi as before? I've heard of higher psi being used when going up in wheels size, so have them about 34 psi at the moment.

Thoughts and help appreciated as always!

Thoughts appreciated
 
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done 2 return trips from Maidstone to Bristol since the new wheels went on, all seems OK (y)

I have however got quite a bit of camber happening on the right rear wheel which I believe could be down to the rear trailing arm bearing being knackered, as I get a fair bit of knocking sometimes as I mentioned before.

I'm planning to investigate at the weekend by stripping that whole corner down and see how easy it would be to replace the whole rear trailing arm (£40 for a whole new arm compared to £10-20 for a kit to repair the bearing). I'll also be taking the brake drum assembly apart too, as I could still turn the road wheel by hand with the handbrake on when the car was last jacked up (also never checked the condition of the rear brakes before so needs doing).

Heard I'd need a 32mm socket for the hub nut so ordered a set of deep impact sockets including that size, as well as some adapters to use our DeWalt drill as an impact gun (has that setting).
Haynes manual states the hub nut should be discarded and replaced if removed, is this vital to do?

In other news, got round to replacing my pollen filter with a nice 'new' one (looks like it was bought in halfords about 20 years ago!) and I now have nice fresh air in the cabin when using the blowers, rather than the musty smell I had before.
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Obviously had to have some cable ties involved somewhere! (holds the filter down)
 
I have not replaced a whole trailing arm, but I have replaced the rear bearings. The new bearing kit included a new hub nut, so I replaced it as recommended. Check that your torque wrench has the capacity to tighten the nut.
 
So tackled the rear brakes over the weekend, was only going to look at the RHS but went fairly smoothly so did both in the end. Didn't have my Haynes manual to hand so was winging it for the most part, and hadn't really worked on drum brakes before now but all went well!

Wheels off, and the drums followed without too much hassle. I was faced with a mess of springs and levers I didn't really know what to do with. I made the mistake at this point of having a go on the brake pedal and handbrake to see how it all worked, which I now realise caused the shoes to self-adjust outwards as far as they would go as there was no drum to push against, meaning I couldn't get the drum back on :bang:. I wasn't too bothered though as it forced me to take it all apart and get to the bottom of things.
Just started un-clipping springs until eventually everything came apart (fairly simple after you've done it once!)

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Cleaned up the whole area with brake cleaner and a wire brush, and in the meantime prepped the brake drums for painting as I had some rust-resistant metal paint from Lidl lying around.
While the first drum was drying I tackled the other side and did the same.

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(Didn't get any more photos of me putting it all back together as I was in a bit of a rush)

Used some fine sandpaper to scuff up the surface of the shoes and drums to remove a bit of a glaze, and applied cooper grease to all the contact surfaces on the edges of the shoes and all the other moving parts (not the actual brakes!)
The springs were a bit of a barst**d to get back on but eventually got there with pliers, flathead and much grunting. I had reset the self-adjusting ratchet mechanism on the leading shoe to it's lowest setting before reinstalling them, so the drums now went back on easily.
Pressed the brake pedal repeatedly to here the clicking noise of the self-adjuster until it stopped. Had to take apart one side again as it was making scraping noises and not spinning freely, just turns out I'd not aligned the bottom of one of the shoes correctly and it was interfering with the rotating drum.

Had used a small clamp to compress the wheel cylinders so thought it best to bleed the rear brakes with the help of my dad, fluid was fairly dark brown as you'd expect.

One problem that wasn't fixed in this process was the weak hand-brake force on one side, as I could still just about move the RHS wheel by hand with the handbrake on. I did see a nut-looking thing on the end of the handbrake cable inside the brake drum assembly, is this what's used to tighten/slacken the handbrake at the wheel end?

With the car up and wheels off I had a look at the rear-trailing arm issue, but pushing and pulling in all directions didn't produce any noise or play in the assembly. Sprayed some PlusGas around the bolts just in case they need to be undone in the future.

While I was doing all this I also emptied out my oil catch can for the first time, as it had got quite full of what looked like mainly water in the fairly short time it's been installed. Behold the contents:

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This worried me slightly as I was expecting more of an oily substance, but from what I hear this can be down to condensation etc. and potentially nothing to worry about too much?

Anyway a productive day was had, took it out for a spin and no noises coming from the back end. Can't say if braking performance has improved at all, but maybe a little

As always comments & advice is welcome!
 
So tackled the rear brakes over the weekend, was only going to look at the RHS but went fairly smoothly so did both in the end. Didn't have my Haynes manual to hand so was winging it for the most part, and hadn't really worked on drum brakes before now but all went well!



Wheels off, and the drums followed without too much hassle. I was faced with a mess of springs and levers I didn't really know what to do with. I made the mistake at this point of having a go on the brake pedal and handbrake to see how it all worked, which I now realise caused the shoes to self-adjust outwards as far as they would go as there was no drum to push against, meaning I couldn't get the drum back on :bang:. I wasn't too bothered though as it forced me to take it all apart and get to the bottom of things.

Just started un-clipping springs until eventually everything came apart (fairly simple after you've done it once!)



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Cleaned up the whole area with brake cleaner and a wire brush, and in the meantime prepped the brake drums for painting as I had some rust-resistant metal paint from Lidl lying around.

While the first drum was drying I tackled the other side and did the same.



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(Didn't get any more photos of me putting it all back together as I was in a bit of a rush)



Used some fine sandpaper to scuff up the surface of the shoes and drums to remove a bit of a glaze, and applied cooper grease to all the contact surfaces on the edges of the shoes and all the other moving parts (not the actual brakes!)

The springs were a bit of a barst**d to get back on but eventually got there with pliers, flathead and much grunting. I had reset the self-adjusting ratchet mechanism on the leading shoe to it's lowest setting before reinstalling them, so the drums now went back on easily.

Pressed the brake pedal repeatedly to here the clicking noise of the self-adjuster until it stopped. Had to take apart one side again as it was making scraping noises and not spinning freely, just turns out I'd not aligned the bottom of one of the shoes correctly and it was interfering with the rotating drum.



Had used a small clamp to compress the wheel cylinders so thought it best to bleed the rear brakes with the help of my dad, fluid was fairly dark brown as you'd expect.



One problem that wasn't fixed in this process was the weak hand-brake force on one side, as I could still just about move the RHS wheel by hand with the handbrake on. I did see a nut-looking thing on the end of the handbrake cable inside the brake drum assembly, is this what's used to tighten/slacken the handbrake at the wheel end?



With the car up and wheels off I had a look at the rear-trailing arm issue, but pushing and pulling in all directions didn't produce any noise or play in the assembly. Sprayed some PlusGas around the bolts just in case they need to be undone in the future.



While I was doing all this I also emptied out my oil catch can for the first time, as it had got quite full of what looked like mainly water in the fairly short time it's been installed. Behold the contents:



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This worried me slightly as I was expecting more of an oily substance, but from what I hear this can be down to condensation etc. and potentially nothing to worry about too much?



Anyway a productive day was had, took it out for a spin and no noises coming from the back end. Can't say if braking performance has improved at all, but maybe a little



As always comments & advice is welcome!



It can be from coolant in the oil and is a sign of a bad head gasket - SOMETIMES.

My mum drives an '04 Astra. Her work is 2 miles away. Barely enough to heat up the engine.

It's always got some of that gunk under the oil cap.

We know it's condensation and nothing else because my sister drove the car for a week on long journeys and it was gone!!!

Furthermore. It held its oil level perfectly. In one year there's about 3mm of coolant below the line.

So I'd say the Punto is just sitting about a lot and that's your cause :)
 
Yeah the catch can doesn't seem to be filling up as fast since I emptied it, maybe just some moisture hanging around. Not many of my journeys are short and the Punto gets fully up to temp on my 30 min commute, just back from another 300 mile round trip to Bristol at the weekend so another good run under it's belt!

Speaking of another long trip however, I experienced a couple more cases of clutch slippage and have been driving like a granny to preserve the clutch, not going over about 1/2 throttle, especially in higher gears.

Plan on tackling it back home over the upcoming bank holiday weekend, and have been looking at clutch kits online. Couple I've found as potential options:

Shop4Parts
https://www.shop4parts.co.uk/?name=store&op=Details&ProdID=3168&sku=272112

Mister Auto
http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/clutch-kit/valeo-821457_g479_a021821457.html

Ricambio
http://www.ricambio.co.uk/648-genuine-clutch-kit-3-piece--fiat-new-panda-punto-mk1--mk2-cinquecento-5892775

eBay
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391319778156?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Generally I heard Valeo would be the one to go for as they are the OEM, but people would tend to go for LUK in the past as the Valeo's are (were) so expensive (£100+). Since I can get Valeo for just over £50 I might as well get one of those?

Also how critical is having a clutch alignment tool? Fairly confident the old screwdriver + electrical tape trick could work but have come across these:

Draper Clutch Mate
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/400295126312?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

MasterPro/Laser
http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/tools/car-service-tools/general-engine-tools/clutch-tools/?538770301&0&t5_409

Probably wouldn't be using this tool ever again, but you never know!

Other things I'll be getting in preparation for the clutch job:
- Moly grease
- 2nd pair of Axle stands (just in case)
- Already have ratchet straps and various planks of wood to help support the gearbox in the engine bay
- Breaker bar to release front wheel hub nut (is this best done with car on the ground?)

Any other tips would be appreciated, I'll need all the help I can get before the weekend!

Cheers and regards
 
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