Hi guys, new to the forum 1st thread. Hope all is well with your cars.

Now to the situation in hand. I'd consider myself at the novice end of the scale when talking about cars and their internal workings, however, I have just purchased a Hayne's manual (seems ok but I get the feeling it assumes you know some basic stuff, which I don't) I want to have a go at replacing my head gasket so I'm looking for as much help and advice as possible relating to

a) tools required - essential

b) all parts required - only essential i.e if I don't need to replace timing belt at same time although I have been advised it is a good idea.

c) A general, quick rundown of the process.

I know the head gasket is quite a big job considering it is my 1sta attempt but hey I'm a good learner and you gotta start somewhere if all else fails i'm sure i can get someone to sort it.

I have a fiat punto 1.2 year 99 new model mk2.

Any info and advice would be much obliged. I will hopefully be starting the work on 07/08 so please post as many non - contradicting replies as possible lol.

p.s I'm just looking for a general run down i.e remove air filter cover, rocker etc i have all the torque setting in the manual, however if you wish to give detail info if you can be bothered would also be much appreciated. Also must I replace all gaskets such as the rocker 1's and is it essential to renew head bolts.

Thanks all hope to hear you replies!
Del Boy!

always get the head skimed,
always buy a head gasket set that includes new head bolts,
always fit new cambelt and tensioner bearing.
new oil and filter,
new plugs,
new coolent.
you need a torque wrench and a good socket set and good spanners.
a dial gauge (only £5)


is it an 8v or a 16v engine

8v thanks for all the info dave

Del

Unless the car is already fcuked i wouldnt attempt it ! You say you dont even know the basics of an engine yet in my opinion youre going to attempt a very serious and important procedure . I cant fault your enthusiasm and bottle but at least learn some basics first and dont try to run before you can walk. After all, if it all goes horribly wrong it may put you off messing about with motors forever !

Appreciate the warning Matt, however learning basics such as changing break pads or whatever is never going to set me up to mess about with an engine and the worst possible scenario i could probably get a recon engine cheaper than what it would cost to have the head gasket replace at a garage. It wouldn't stop me messing with the car Im quite enthusiastic about it so **** it I will try it.

Cheers Del

The more you know the less tools you need, but you must have a good 1/2 in socket set.
Here's a tip for setting head torque. Put a 2 ft round tube bar on the T bar, using kitchen scales at the 2 ft point pull round till it reads 11lb. Thats the initial 22lb setting. Put a dab of Tippex on each bolt head at 12 o'clock, and use for the subsequent settings. I'm sure the boys will have a go at this one, but it works and it follows technical logic.
Tony.

Thanks tony! Will probably invest in a torque wrench for the proper torqueing Cheers Del

excellent! its good to see someone who's not afraid to get stuck in. when i was 19 i blew the head gasket on my AX GT and everyone said its too hard to do at home alone and i'd screw it up worse if i tried. i got my haynes manual out and 2 days later the car was perfect. admittedly i wasnt exactly a novice at the time but i didnt have a clue what i was doing and only my haynes manual was there to guide me. the only part i couldn't do was the head skim but you must skim it or you'll be doing the job again in a few days. i recommend you also get the head pressure tested.

its not as hard a job as everyone makes out. follow the haynes and you'll be fine. getting the head off is as easy as you'd think, remove or disconnect everything attached to the head, take the rocker cover off and then remove the head bolts, then the hardest part (imo)- getting the head to come off. i used brute force (my foot and all my weight) to crack the old gasket until the head would lift away from the block. its surprising how hard it can be, i thought i must have missed a few bolts somewhere but it was just old gasket holding the head on.

a vital part to do once its off is cleaning and inspection. remove all traces of the old gasket from the block, the skim will clean the head up for you. i hoovered the bits out of each cylinder. then rotate the crankshaft to make sure the pistons move ok. overheating from head gasket failure can cause damage to piston rings, you'll waste your time putting the head back on if the rest of the internals arent in good condition. each piston should move smoothly and fairly silently, if one sounds rough you need to get it checked out. also check the valves by rotating camshaft and observing their movement, although if the car ran ok apart from the head gasket problem this probably isnt an issue worth worrying about.

before refitting you must get a new cambelt, its not an option just do it, they dont cost much. also a full head gasket set including bolts. sticking the head back on is easy, but wait! before you go sticking the head back on you need to prepare the timing (i forgot first time lol). with the head off you can easily get piston 1 to TDC (if thats where it should be on your engine, alternatively mark everything up before you take it apart, then use the marks to ensure head matches bottom end on refitting). i also suggest you get the valves in time before you fit the head, otherwise you could lower a valve onto a piston face (again i did this first time but luckily no damage). with the head in place you stick the head bolts in, using the correct procedure as described in haynes, this is important. then stick the rocker cover on (with new gasket) and engine is back together. after that i did the timing belt, double check that the camshaft and crankshaft are in position and fit the belt then tension it. then stick the 'other bits' back onto the head and fit all the pointless plastic and rusty wires. bingo you're done.

i've done 4 head gaskets now and never had a problem apart from the a misfitted belt, but you notice that before its too late as you check the belt using 2 full engine cycles, if its still in line with your marks after 2 full turns then things are probably perfect. dont listen to people who tell you its hard and you wont be able to do it, the hardest part is getting rusty bolts off (its not rocket science, more like lego), and the biggest success factor is having the right tools and somewhere suitable to work. in hindsight i think life would be easier if you lock the camshaft and crankshaft in posiiton before you do anything, that way you can simply stick the head back on and then the belt saving a couple of hours. i didnt have the tools for that so i used tippex to mark positions before removal (i also counted timing belt grooves between pulleys and still got it wrong).

good luck, and as you said if it all goes wrong you can always get another engine, although the worse damage you can do is bend valves (timing wrong) or thread bolts (thats me every time) so dont be scared, it'll be easier to fix your mistakes the second time, and even easier the third

Jugs that's the kinda reply I was looking for, a wee bit of confidence and good solid info. I was considering leaving the timing belt but I think I will just give it a go considering the belt is only a tenner and would cost £100 to do at a garage. Can you answer me 1 question did you do the timing belt once you had the head back on or not?

Cheers Del