Technical new ECU, flashing light, what is wrong??

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Technical new ECU, flashing light, what is wrong??

if I saw a tech rev my car to the limiter I would slap him that is bad practice

you only need to rev it to the required rpm of 6000 I believe not 5000 I may be wrong but if you go to 6 you cant be wrong it still does the job
 
apparently it's 5800 according to a det
I did one today and it wouldn't do it at 5000

so took it to 5800 or near as I could and was fine

I was doing a ecu reprogram for a 188 with starter motor taking to much current and starving the ecu on start-up there was a service news about it a wile ago but our boss has the password and never prints the dam things

as it happened the guy was an ex mechanic and pointed out how well I did it
I.e. not hitting the happy limiter well he mentioned it after I was explaining that I had to do it to learn the phonic wheel

I wish our receptionist would take people away when we have to do this
 
yea temperature is the key

but really you cant brake a fire engine from revs aslong as it's well looked after

they race these engines in the punto challenge series

they put ported head and inlet manifold 75 cam sports exhaust and chipped to hell

and they rev them to 8500 all day long on a standard bottom end and they never give trouble

in fact we had a guy with a 999 uno mk1 on carb (ie no limiter) cum in at work and said he could only do 90 in 3rd

I can believe this cos my uno rev limiter was just over 80 in 3rd so I reckon 90 must have been nearly 9000rpm

also I had an uno again come in the woman stuck it in second from 5th by accident and it was making a hell of a scraping noise

it turned out to be the cooling blades on the alternator had all bent out with the force but after fixing this it was fine nothing wrong with engine at all

so what do you reckon rmp would have to be to bend the cooling thins on an alternator
 
I have a 2001 1.2 8v and yesterday the wife rang to say the engine was dying, got it home to find it running on just 2 pots and the engine light on permanent orange. A few checks sugested the coils so today I changed cols, leads and plugs, fire her up and ..........still only half a barrell of fun, to be thorough I checked all my connections and caps again, twist the key and hey presto a whole 4 pots, engine light still on though, took it for a spin and 45 seconds down the road and I have half an engine again. Am puzzled cos it did work, not for long but it does seem that the car is deciding to cut power/fuel to those pots, think its 1 and 4. Does anyone know of any other checks I can try to isolate the issue before I start throwing money at my local dealer :confused:
 
cheers, I will try that and go from there, will post results
 
my punto was standard and i got 85 in 3rd and i could have got a little more... that engines dead now tho... in progress of engine transplant :LOL:
 
I had this exact same problem with my last punto.. .New ECU was the answer... I never bothered thoguh and just bought a new one!
 
hum took a picture of the examiner today to confirm the exact to the letter procedure for phonic wheel learn was doing one on staff car following a ecu update for coil drivers

so here it is




IMPORTANT : RUN THE SELF-LEARNING PROCEDURE SHOWN.

PHONIC WHEEL

THE PROCEDURE CONSISTS OF THE FOLLOWING STEPS:
-start and warm up the engine (wait until the fan cuts in)
-bring the engine to 6000rpm, release the accelerator and wait untill the engine speed returns to idle
-repeat the operation two more times (bring the engine to 6000 revs)
-check that the MIL warning light is off

-if the MIL warning lamp continues flashing after accelerating three times, carry on accelerating as described above until the MIL warning light goes out.

-once the MIL warning lamp has gone out, position the key to STOP and wait one minute.
 
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I have Fiat Punto 1.2 16v ELX. I had a problem with the ECU. The red light turns on and off from time to time. When is turned on the car works with 3 cilinders (the 4-th dont work). I connected it to a computer and it sad that the problem is in the ECU. But then when I wanted to buy a new ECU the car started to work normal. The light didnt flash any more. From time to time when the car is working the trotile goes up and down but the light dont flash any more.
What should I do? What is the problem does anybody know? Should I buy a new ECU?
 
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Just to inform you about my case. I was today in the repair shop and they said that the problem is in the ECU an my problem cant be fixed so I will have to get a new ECU. I found an used ECU and its on its way for decoding but I`m not sure can this model be decoded? Have anyone had this kind of problem?
 
i need help 2, ive had 2 change the ecu it was running only on 2 pot, so i got a second hand 1 of the self, he said i have to change the fuse box and also the ignition key, so ive dont all that, and engine runs fine, but now i cant get the power steering to work its as if the car dont have it on, and also the fuel gauge is not working now the tank if full but it show as empty and the orange light is on, ive checked the fuses and the all ok, any one any ideas??? can is needed back on road asap as the girlfriend the car for work she goes around looking after o.a.p.s thanks
 
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