Interceptor101
New member
Hi guys,
First off; English is not my native language, so I may sound a bit weird on some (technical) terms Sorry for that.
Now the problem; my wife's Punto 1.2 60hp 8V from 2004.
Ingition coil B is the DTC.
Now this persists after replacing (for new of course) both coils and HP leads.
Swapping both coils over, still gives coil B as fault.
The coil does draw a spark when I loosen the HP lead, but a lot less than the one that does work.
The signal could be at fault as the positive connection on coil B does have 13,5V when connected and engine running.
Tonight, I can use a Scope; a Fluke 123 and so I will be able to see what signal comes down at the coil.
I can also see if there is a difference in the output from the ecu and input at the coil; making sure there is no wire at fault.
I also intent to make a temporary wire between both connections to see what happens, just to be sure.
So, it seems very much like the ecu is broken........
I have to find connection 10 at connector A on the ecu. Ehm, I didn't see an A or a B on them and so; who knows which one is the A connector on the ecu?
No biggie; I can try to see on which one the color is right.
But now;
If I have to buy a new ecu........
The key/start immobiliser won't work!
How do you guys "do that"?
Is it enough to just buy a second hand ecu with the transponder, just the little black "stone"?
Or do you know of any more "computers" working with that, like the computer for the interior or something like that?
Eh, sorry for the long read guys.
Please help me out here; it is going to be expensive........
Thanks in advance!
First off; English is not my native language, so I may sound a bit weird on some (technical) terms Sorry for that.
Now the problem; my wife's Punto 1.2 60hp 8V from 2004.
Ingition coil B is the DTC.
Now this persists after replacing (for new of course) both coils and HP leads.
Swapping both coils over, still gives coil B as fault.
The coil does draw a spark when I loosen the HP lead, but a lot less than the one that does work.
The signal could be at fault as the positive connection on coil B does have 13,5V when connected and engine running.
Tonight, I can use a Scope; a Fluke 123 and so I will be able to see what signal comes down at the coil.
I can also see if there is a difference in the output from the ecu and input at the coil; making sure there is no wire at fault.
I also intent to make a temporary wire between both connections to see what happens, just to be sure.
So, it seems very much like the ecu is broken........
I have to find connection 10 at connector A on the ecu. Ehm, I didn't see an A or a B on them and so; who knows which one is the A connector on the ecu?
No biggie; I can try to see on which one the color is right.
But now;
If I have to buy a new ecu........
The key/start immobiliser won't work!
How do you guys "do that"?
Is it enough to just buy a second hand ecu with the transponder, just the little black "stone"?
Or do you know of any more "computers" working with that, like the computer for the interior or something like that?
Eh, sorry for the long read guys.
Please help me out here; it is going to be expensive........
Thanks in advance!