nikrox said:

I cannot remember where these bolts are..could you post ones from a distance to help identify where they are?...are they sacrificial?..

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This exact Hex Bolt can be seen here - this is the only one really easy to reach - the other 3 are set much deeper - this bolt attached to a frame which helps hold up the exhaust.

Same bolt from another angle

Hmmm...only thing I can suggest is trying with and impact gun or taking it to an exhaust place and getting them to remove/loosen/change them to bolts heads..

Its completely different to the one I did,sorry

Ok wasn’t expecting that , I had an easy time in comparison I just undid bolts to block and the union underneath and lifted it out / smear it in engine oil and wd40 overnight / clamp a tough vice grips to it tomorrow and one belt of a hammer though space looks too tight maybe or if you can get a hex bit and insert into a ratchet socket with a few bits on it for length it should give also with that usually works for me if leverage is also a problem

Fialfa said:

Hi if it’s a bracket holding up the exhaust are you sure it needs to come out ? I know there’s a bracket somewhere near the union underneath of cat and pipe but thought I’d was on pipe end if it’s in the cat side it must be a half bracket that I lifted it out of on mine can’t remember but I didn’t have to deal with an exhaust bracket only securing bolts

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it's the bracket which holds this piece of the exhaust and it wraps around the left side of the oil sump and hides about 4 of the bolts on the oil sump

I’m a bit surprised is so overdone I think the ratchet is the way to go the sump looks like it could need replacement also

As far as I can tell that black panel on the left side is similar to the panel he removes in this video to get to the bolts on the Grande Punto - not though my own exhaust connected well behind the sump, in his video he is able to disconnect the exhaust in such a way that the sump can be removed straight down - mien is not like that.

[ame]https://youtu.be/XMWVVDWKExA?t=526[/ame]

Fialfa said:

Is that big bolt at end of exhaust support on second to last pic part of itView attachment 202909

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Not quite sure what you mean but that big bolt is attached to the silver bracket which hides several of the bolts of the sump pan.

No I had better look at the pics your going to have to tackle those bolts alright try and assess exactly the minimum of what must come off to move it from sump !!! Long ratchet with a hex bit sitting at end and the longer the handle ( bar slid on etc ) the better when gently but forcefully turning / make sure you turn correct way first time or your F€&&&&&/ lots of oil or wd40 and they’ll give hopefully

You guys get some serious rust in the UK.

deeinlondon said:

One other question I have is if I totally disconnect the wire going to the Oil Pressure Switch should the light on my dashboard turn or or off?

because I tested this and with the wire disconnected the light comes on. (key in ignition turned but engine off)

Some websites seem to suggest this shouldn't be the case and that the wire to the switch might be grounding somewhere on the body?

I test the original switch with an electrical meter and it seems in a resting state the switch completes the circuit and when you apply some pressure to simulate oil pressure it breaks the circuit - does that sound right?

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The light should come on if the plug is off.

These pictures from the Haynes manual could be useful. Good luck!

Fialfa said:

I’m a bit surprised is so overdone I think the ratchet is the way to go the sump looks like it could need replacement also

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I think the sump is fine in terms of no leaks but aftermarket ones are less then £20 so I wouldn't mind changing it for something that looked nicer.

I've seen a seller on eBay that's sold over 200 punto sumps for less than £20 delivered so I assume they must work fine after selling so many.

Still struggling to get that 6mm Hex Bolt Off with an Allen Key and an bar over it to make it longer. Little bit worried about damaging the head and this is one of 4 bolts to remove, the other 3 are recessed and much harder to access.

Although this one is the most rusted as it has the least cover and most in contact with water from the road.

I have order a new set of Allen Keys which is supposed to have better grip for turning, will try again when that arrives.

judderbar said:

These pictures from the Haynes manual could be useful. Good luck!

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Thank you for taking the time to post this

deeinlondon said:

Still struggling to get that 6mm Hex Bolt Off with an Allen Key and an bar over it to make it longer. Little bit worried about damaging the head and this is one of 4 bolts to remove, the other 3 are recessed and much harder to access.

Although this one is the most rusted as it has the least cover and most in contact with water from the road.

I have order a new set of Allen Keys which is supposed to have better grip for turning, will try again when that arrives.

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You can buy an allen key built into a socket that will give you the grip and quality you need to remove a rusty allen bolt. A single socket is not expensive.

As I mentioned earlier a small socket bit with your Allen key inserted into it and extension arm should make short work of those and reach the recessed ones

Hopefully I've got someone coming on Saturday to give me a hand getting the oil sump off

I was looking into perhaps also buying a new oil sump at the same time and noticed the ones on eBay that say fit my car have 14 bore holes whilst other websites list it as having 17 bore holes.

I guess I'll have to get under the car tomorrow and start counting the number of holes.

deeinlondon said:

Hopefully I've got someone coming on Saturday to give me a hand getting the oil sump off

I was looking into perhaps also buying a new oil sump at the same time and noticed the ones on eBay that say fit my car have 14 bore holes whilst other websites list it as having 17 bore holes.

I guess I'll have to get under the car tomorrow and start counting the number of holes.

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I had a look at the hex bolts on my car.


I took off the front one at the end with a 3/8ths socket extension and a 6mm bit. It was fairly tight for such a small bit and came undone with a crack. The bolt was still lacquered like new. It screws into an aluminium casting, so the steel bolt is protected from rusting by the aluminium - even so I think you are going to struggle without having a socket set with a 6mm bit. The bolt is 5cm long with 4cm threaded.. I suppose it would be torqued to 15- 20nm

Well I counted the number of bore holes on my current oil sump - appears to be 17 bore holes - so got to be careful as some websites including eBay list the sumps with only 14 holes as fitting my car.

The other thing I noticed is I'm sure there appears to be a fitted gasket on my oil sump - yet I've searched online and cannot seem to find a fitted gasket on sale on any website - Does this mean if I remove the sump I'll have to remove the gasket and then use some kind of gasket making paste?

I see on ebay the sump with 14 bore holes can be bought with the sealant included for less than £20 but no one that sells the 17 bore hole version seems to sell gasket making paste with it, so don't know if you can do it that way or if there are ready made gaskets for sale but they're just hard to find.

Having said that on the inspection camera it did appear as if the gasket from the inside was paste- I guess I'll only really find out once I manage to get it off.