Technical None starter..

brinker · Dec 26, 2017

varesecrazy said:
long shot..:idea:

remove battery power.. for an hour..and see if it re-times better on the ECU's factory settings at power-up..

or did yesterdays recharge involve this..??

I reset self learning adaption on the phone yesterday, so it should be on 0.

varesecrazy · Dec 26, 2017

Out of ideas now..

Good luck..

brinker · Dec 26, 2017

Appears it might be the cam sensor. Resistance is 3Mohm. Sadly cannot borrow this from the neighbours Panda, since it uses a GP engine, thus a different cam sensor...

Brendan W · Dec 26, 2017

If it's capable of running on two the obvious culprit is a coil.

brinker · Dec 26, 2017

Brendan W said:
If it's capable of running on two the obvious culprit is a coil.

Not now. It doesn't start. I just know that it is capable of running on two, because I had a coil failure a couple years ago. It's not an issue now - and will likely never be as I upgraded to 16V coil instead.

judderbar · Dec 27, 2017

brinker said:
Appears it might be the cam sensor. Resistance is 3Mohm. Sadly cannot borrow this from the neighbours Panda, since it uses a GP engine, thus a different cam sensor...

Just checked my 16V 1.2 2004 punto. It starts perfectly normally without the cam sensor. I have a three wire connector so I am assuming that is a hall affect sensor so i did not bother to test resistance.

Do you have a petrol smell at the end of the exhaust? I believe i am correct in saying the engine should be pumping out a perfect fuel air mixture which you can use to test the fuel air side of things is correct - fill a small bag with exhaust gas and it should go whoosh!

You can also light the gas with a plug out but i am not sure how good an idea that is with plastic intakes and catalytic convertor

varesecrazy · Dec 27, 2017

judderbar
There was talk of misfiring..must have fuel in mix for that..

judderbar · Dec 28, 2017

varesecrazy said:
@judderbar
There was talk of misfiring..must have fuel in mix for that..

Misfiring happened once though?

brinker · Dec 28, 2017

Not the cam sensor either.. I'm seriously running out of ideas now - only thought is that the 2½ year old ECU is dead...

varesecrazy · Dec 28, 2017

brinker said:
Not the cam sensor either.. I'm seriously running out of ideas now - only thought is that the 2½ year old ECU is dead...

Squirt fuel direct into throttle body..

If it improves the basics.. you've a fuel related issue.

My bet is STILL TIMING..

brinker · Dec 28, 2017

varesecrazy said:
Squirt fuel direct into throttle body..

If it improves the basics.. youve a fuel telated isdue.

My bet is STILL TIMING..

Will collect my tools and drive down there after work today, see if I can figure it out.. Check timing again, do compression test and measure everything that can be measured.

brinker · Dec 28, 2017

So as it turns out, my timing was off. But as I correctly assumed on Monday, it is on its marks.
Somehow the cam pulley has slipped [emoji15]

varesecrazy · Dec 28, 2017

Well done..!!
And a relatively cheap and easy fix

brinker · Dec 28, 2017

Err, I might have celebrated too soon. On further inspection the cam pulley and notch appears to be completely fine.
The rest of tonights findings is a cold compression test that shows 175psi on 1-2 and 100psi on 3-4. But cold compression tests aren't exactly accurate.
Spark is present on all 4 cylinders, but I did think it looked a little weak.
Also tried starting it by spraying brake cleaner into TB, but didn't help. So definitely not a fuel related issue.
Now, I can't seem to find the timing mark on the flywheel - but this has been replaced. From what pics I could find, there does seem to be a guide pin to correctly position the flywheel - can anyone confirm this?

flisko · Dec 28, 2017

brinker said:
Err, I might have celebrated too soon. On further inspection the cam pulley and notch appears to be completely fine.
The rest of tonights findings is a cold compression test that shows 175psi on 1-2 and 100psi on 3-4. But cold compression tests aren't exactly accurate.
Spark is present on all 4 cylinders, but I did think it looked a little weak.
Also tried starting it by spraying brake cleaner into TB, but didn't help. So definitely not a fuel related issue.
Now, I can't seem to find the timing mark on the flywheel - but this has been replaced. From what pics I could find, there does seem to be a guide pin to correctly position the flywheel - can anyone confirm this?

there is notch on flywheel for timing, align that with number 0

also check bottom crank pulley if that tooth inside is broke, timing will slip if it is

brinker · Dec 28, 2017

flisko said:
there is notch on flywheel for timing, align that with number 0

also check bottom crank pulley if that tooth inside is broke, timing will slip if it is

As I wrote, I can't find that mark - hence why I asked if the flywheel has a guide pin to position it correctly. But I will just check if cylinder 1/4 is at TDC. Will give me the same result.

flisko · Dec 28, 2017

brinker said:
As I wrote, I can't find that mark - hence why I asked if the flywheel has a guide pin to position it correctly. But I will just check if cylinder 1/4 is at TDC. Will give me the same result.

this

brinker · Dec 29, 2017

flisko said:
this

I'm well aware what it looks like, but as I've asked several times now, is there a guide pin on the flywheel?..

judderbar · Dec 29, 2017

brinker said:
I'm well aware what it looks like, but as I've asked several times now, is there a guide pin on the flywheel?..

Does it matter? Did you find the timing was correct for TDC on number 1?

On my 16V the spark looks very weak. I changed the coils, tested with a new HT lead, and used a different ECU for no change. I was expecting a nice fat white spark a few CM long but i just get this weak yellow spark that goes about one CM. Car runs totally fine.

By the way I still have those oxygen sensors in the packet you sent me unused.

brinker · Dec 29, 2017

judderbar said:
Does it matter? Did you find the timing was correct for TDC on number 1?

On my 16V the spark looks very weak. I changed the coils, tested with a new HT lead, and used a different ECU for no change. I was expecting a nice fat white spark a few CM long but i just get this weak yellow spark that goes about one CM. Car runs totally fine.

By the way I still have those oxygen sensors in the packet you sent me unused.

I haven't checked TDC yet - just finished my breakfast.. [emoji6]
Well it's reassuring that the spark isn't particularly strong, because that means mine should be okay as well.
I will go check TDC and if it's OK, I will do some electrical checks again, because it's pointing in direction of a new ECU, since everything else seems to be in order..

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