Technical Suspension top mount

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Technical Suspension top mount

onthejazz

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Hello

After changing wishbones and anti roll bar bushes the clunking. Nose is this there when going over a bump or turning etc.
It does sound worse now we have touched things ops.

Going to replace the coil springs and track rod arms and top mount rubber cover. But in the images do they look right as they aren't touching the body work.
 

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Hello

After changing wishbones and anti roll bar bushes the clunking. Nose is this there when going over a bump or turning etc.
It does sound worse now we have touched things ops.

Going to replace the coil springs and track rod arms and top mount rubber cover. But in the images do they look right as they aren't touching the body work.

Have you changed the anti-roll bar links? These are probably the fastest-wearing parts on the front suspension and will cause clunks even if they feel OK when trying to flex them. Remove them and then check condition. Still fitted they will have a load on them which masks any play.

Coil springs are obvious. They are either complete and tight in their position, or broken.

Track rods. Disconnect from wheel, and check fro free play at the outer ball joint, and the inner joint.

The top mount cover is only there to stop the strut falling out if you pop over a bump and lift the wheels too far, or when the car is jacked up. Replacing them will achieve nothing.
However, the top mount underneath may be an issue. Your top cover does look a long way up compared to my Panda, which might mean soft top mounts. Search threads on here for advice on correct fitting.
 
Hello

The clunking noise Was there already. That's why we changed the wishbones and anti roll bar bushes.
With the top mount for the strut does the strut have to come out all the way to replace. As am looking at the top mounts might as well but new springs on.

I bought it got my daughter to learn in. So happy to change all the cheap parts to have a smoother ride etc.
 
Hello

The clunking noise Was there already. That's why we changed the wishbones and anti roll bar bushes.
With the top mount for the strut does the strut have to come out all the way to replace. As am looking at the top mounts might as well but new springs on.

I bought it got my daughter to learn in. So happy to change all the cheap parts to have a smoother ride etc.
Check the springs next then

Puntos have non slop droop suspension

Ie when its on full droop there isnt movement in the suspension unlike alot of vauxhalls and fords ive seen

As for banging since arb and wishbones have been eliminated it tbh just leaves shocks and spring and top mounts

Springs check visually are sat in the locator lug at bottom shock seat
and that there isnt a broken spring near the bottom
Often u can loose bottom coil and never notice visually (had a couple of cars pass mots with broken bit removed....)

Ziggy

Ziggy
 
Cheers for that.

I did a quick feel around the drivers spring and when I got near the top it felt real sharp and jagged like a snap. But without removing I can't tell.

Do I have to remove the strut to replace the top mounts.

At this rate as along as the engine and gearbox work. Won't need to worry about the rest
 
To replace top mounts whole strut has to come out. Then compress spring to take tension off mount.
Top mount MUST be fitted correctly, see other threads. I'd recommend reading the other threads, don't just assume yours is already correct.
 
Cheers for that. I've read that the arrow needs to point to the back. But till I have the new ones and see the old ones will understand it better.

If whole strut needs to come out might just replace the struts as well for £45
 
just had a punto that would knock while going over speed bumps or pot holes, changed both arms, anti roll bar bushes and the knocking was still there, later i saw that front shock spring was broken and was missing like 10cm piece, changed spring and knock was gone

on other side spring wasnt broken, but the knock was still there- on that wheel only, changed whole shock with spring and it fixed knocking
 
Ironic that this has popped up - I too have a loud clunking noise. Again, I thought it was top mounts, but its been over a pit in MOT bay and mounts are ok with no movement.

However, I do have play in the rear bushes on the wishbone. Still not sure that would cause the noise or the feel of something clicking / moving at same time. Wishbones are easier than mounts though as I don't have to compress the spring.
 
Will be fitting new track rods and struts and springs plus top mounts. At weekend. Then there is nothing else to replace which can clunk. Unless it's drive shaft lol

Just have discs and pads to change and its a whole new front end lol.
Might change back springs next month. This is the most work I've done to any of my cars. But it's things you do for kids.
 
You are doing, or have done the anti-roll bar links hopefully. No actual mention of them, and these are the most likely source of clunks over bumps.

Ive never had issues with punto ARB's

Never replaced them either
Springs and TRE - Yes

Maybe because i hit speed bumps square i dont put stress on the ARB as bad as i see people who deliberatly go over one sided?

As the ARB has to work quiet hard quiet quickly too

Ziggy
 
We changed the arb bushes.

Well 5hrs in and I've not even removed one bolt from the strut. The more I look at the nuts and bolts they have never been touched. Nut and bolt rounded off. Ended up chiselling the but to split it but can't punch out the bolt. Got grinder out and removed head of the bolt. Still won't bloody move. Tried drilling it out but after 15min it's hardly done anything.

Put wheels back on and gave up. If am fight this much with 1 bolt still have another 3 to do. I have new ones to go in.
 
We changed the arb bushes.

Well 5hrs in and I've not even removed one bolt from the strut. The more I look at the nuts and bolts they have never been touched. Nut and bolt rounded off. Ended up chiselling the but to split it but can't punch out the bolt. Got grinder out and removed head of the bolt. Still won't bloody move. Tried drilling it out but after 15min it's hardly done anything.

Put wheels back on and gave up. If am fight this much with 1 bolt still have another 3 to do. I have new ones to go in.

hi
i always struggled with these but they will come out
every ones different though
persevere(y)
 
Cheers for that. Might end up driving it to a garage.
Only so much banging I can do and get no where lol.
 
If you've taken heads and nuts off any bolt, do not drive it anywhere. It might let go.

A bit more work, but you can take off the whole strut and hub. Remove driveshaft nut (you'll need a new one), remove disc and caliper, separate bottom ball jount and remove whole strut and hub together. Heavy.

Now you can put the whole thing on a bench to drift the bolts out, or take to garage for them to press them out.
 
Cheers for that. There is only 1 bolt that is grounded flat. Bottom bolt hasn't been touched. With all the banging and trying to punch it out it hasn't moved. So driving slowly. I think it will hold.

I was thinking about removing the whole Hub. But looking at the nuts all around. No one has touched them and look the same state of the strut. Really didn't want to get stuck removing more bolts etc. At least if it's in a garage it's there problem.

Was looking at carbon drill bits and fully hardened colbolt bits. Buying 2 sizes then go back to drilling it.
 
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