I'm new, so not too sure if this is in the right place. I've just had my head gasket replaced and a new water pump from a garage I googled (student and no one had recommendations). So £500 later I have my car and driving it the ten minutes home. The engine starts making this whirling noise and there's a blowing from the exhaust (seems to be from the manifold join). I took it back to the garage today and the person who dealt with me ran inside when I pulled up and another mechanic came out to look (coems across as dodgy). He said it sounds like the alternator bearings and wanted £160 for a new part, coming to £250 for the whole job (saying it wasn't easy).

My problem is, I'm very scared of conflict with mechanics as I'm not as knowledgable and furthermore, I forgot to get a receipt when I paid cash (I know, I'm terrible). I've been told by friends, the garage should have known/heard the alternator noise whilst test driving and they did admit to hearing the exhaust blowing when "driving it up the motorway" (which they didn't do because the car's only done 7 miles and it's an hour to the motorway. Oh, as well, the altenator light hasn't come on at all (I'm about to google when it does and doesn't come on).

I was wondering how big the job is to do the alternator myself (Eurocarparts showing much cheaper and quality parts). I haven't done anything too mechnical, just replaced the back section of the exhaust and electric fan.

TLDR: Dodgy garage asking more money for new alternator, is it a big job for me to do myself?

It depends how handy you are and how many tools you have of course, but an alternator is normally easily DIYable, slightly harder if you have aircon. I'd be surprised if it took a garage more than an hour, so £50 max labour at a backstreet type garage.

I'd suggest taking it to a different garage tbh. This one hasn't really given you any reason to be loyal. What town are you in?

It's just occurred to me that they might have just overtightened the alternator belt. That would be the first thing to check.

If you've not got air con it's literally 3 bolts, un-connecting 2 wires and a new 10 GBP rubber belt. Access can be a little hard though, I'd suggest jacking the driver's side front wheel up and removing the wheel and wheel arch lining (it's just screws and clips).

EDIT: Also, tell us the year, and model/engine (16v or 8v, 1.2L or 1.4L etc.) so we can make sure you get the right part.

£500 is at least £100 too much for that job and £250 for an alternator is a ripoff. You need a new garage. Get a Haynes manual and start reading.
TBH exhaust blowing and alternator groaning smacks of gross incompetence. I would call trading standards and get some help rattling their cage. They can probably see you won't take them on and are taking advantage. Cash without receipt means they are not declaring the income to Revenue. Time to learn how to play hardball.

Agree with all the posts above, also if you let us know where in the country you are someone local may be willing to lend an oily hand or two.

The 1.2 8v are easy as muck to change
They really are
Anybody can do it - honestly!

Okay alot of people put in there heads - i cant do that
Seriously though - on the punto its like the easiest job on there!

Since Punto's are far from been extint yet - there are shed loads of mk2's and mk2b's in scrap yards with 60amp or 65amp or 70amp alternators
All sat with usually nothing wrong with them
The local scrappy down from me charged £10 for a Punto alternator

I'd rather do 10x 2nd hand units for the cost a ""new- reconditioned"" unit from auto spare places

i even did a guide some time ago!
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-mk2-2b-guides/284983-changing-fiat-punto-1-2-8v-mk2-alternator.html

Ziggy

Sounds like a dodgy garage. If tension is not right on any of the belts, you will get a noise from them as the bearings are heating up.

You can get belt slippage which sounds like squealing bearings. Improper tension, had this issue with mine and the garage fixed the problem without any demand for money.

£160 sounds like a good nights p155 up to me for your mechanic.

Thanks everyone. The original garage said it was the cam belt tension which they fixed for free (thank god) but I've still got this blow in the manifold join. Again, wondering if it's a relatively easy job I could spend a day on or if there's a temp fix to get me the 120miles home (would be a miracle, I know)?

Jakibx3 said:

Thanks everyone. The original garage said it was the cam belt tension which they fixed for free (thank god) but I've still got this blow in the manifold join. Again, wondering if it's a relatively easy job I could spend a day on or if there's a temp fix to get me the 120miles home (would be a miracle, I know)?

Click to expand...

weld, change it or just drive like that, nothing is gonna happen apart from noise

Jakibx3 said:

Thanks everyone. The original garage said it was the cam belt tension which they fixed for free (thank god) but I've still got this blow in the manifold join. Again, wondering if it's a relatively easy job I could spend a day on or if there's a temp fix to get me the 120miles home (would be a miracle, I know)?

Click to expand...

a new cambelt kit inc a new tensioner should have been part of the head gasket job at the price you paid.

also exhaust manifold comes off to remove head so a new gasket should have also been fitted there, so make sure they put that right foc
its not too late to ask for a receipt.

flisko said:

weld, change it or just drive like that, nothing is gonna happen apart from noise

Click to expand...

Hi, @ Jakibx3

the exhaust manifold isn't TOO bad for access - especially if it's only just been put back on.. it should "pivot" on the lower flexi joint so only the manifold itself needs undoing.

you'll want a ( 13mm..?? socket) and short extension to release the manifolts stud bolts, and a 10mm for the heat shield ones,

a new gasket , and / or a tube of exhaust assembly paste.

it's quite possible the mating faces aren't great, that's why it's blowing

so a gasket on it's own may not get a perfect seal.

Charlie - Oxford

manifold nuts are size 12

flisko said:

manifold nuts are size 12

Click to expand...

12 or 13 ..depending on where they were purchased.. same thread

11 or 12 or 13 depending on how much they have rusted.

Brendan W said:

11 or 12 or 13 depending on how much they have rusted.

Click to expand...

lololo

Ok, I've got some exhaust paste (from back before I replace my back section), so do you think that'll be enough to hold it for now? And I'll figure out what nut it is when I get under haha

it will take longer to put paste all around manifold that it is to take of and re fit. are we sure we talking about the join between manifold and head?

dave said:

it will take longer to put paste all around manifold that it is to take of and re fit. are we sure we talking about the join between manifold and head?

Click to expand...

Yeah, it's definitely that join. My dad's coming down wednesday with the decent jack to see how much we can get under, but it'll be easier to have a look properly to take it apart once I've got it home home.

Jakibx3 said:

Ok, I've got some exhaust paste (from back before I replace my back section), so do you think that'll be enough to hold it for now? And I'll figure out what nut it is when I get under haha

Click to expand...

you dont need to get under car for exhaust manifold nuts, they can all be reached from above