Hello

My nephews pun to mk2 1.2 8v recently cut out on the motorway, towed back home now doesn't start at all.

At first I thought it was the battery, remote central locking didn't work, but all lights came up on dash, but no turn over. I took the battery to be tested, said there was little charge, recommend charging to see if it would hold, so I charged over night, tested and it was holding charge, tried it out on the car this time it was attempting to turn over as normal just will not take.

I've looked at the plugs all clean and dry, so I'm not sure why it's not starting.
Noticed a thread about crankshaft sensor, I unplugged this the car did the same attempted to switch on but didn't take.

Any ideas?

Thanks

No suggestions?

fit a good battery,

check fault codes,
reset fuel cut-off switch - listen to pump under rear seat prime,

check cambelt is intact / timed correctly..,

NOT Immobilised..??

let us know how this lot goes..??

Thanks for the suggestion, is the cut off switch by the drivers seat?

It has just had the clutch replaced too, don't know if that makes any difference?

tabu said:

Thanks for the suggestion, is the cut off switch by the drivers seat?

It has just had the clutch replaced too, don't know if that makes any difference?

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BLACK rubbery push button - under passenger seat

clutch..mmmm - had to scrap a 4x4 after "Mr. Clutch " visit:bang:

opportunity for trapped / damaged wiring

however these FIRE motors are pretty durable..do the basics as listed,
turn key to MAR listen for fuel pump running for a few seconds,
does Immob. light come on then go out..??

Thought it was near one of the seats!

The immob light, key code light I presume, goes out quite quickly as normal

I still think its the battery, the place I took seemed reluctant to sell me one, said it was enough charge although not full.

Thanks

any yellow key code lights on dash?
remove crank sensor and clean it with a cloth, put it back in and try again, does it start via bump start?

Is it that it won't turn over or won't start? you say "but all lights came up on dash, but no turn over" How is the earth connection to the engine? Have you tested the starter motor?

Check the voltage drop from the battery to the starter, that will rule out wiring. Try jump starting off another car to give the battery a bit of a boost. If it still doesn't start but the engine turns over as normal but dosent fire its not a battery/starter problem. Next suspect is fuel. Make sure there is fuel in the tank, don't trust the fuel gauge , they can lie. Lift up the back seats and put your ear to the pump while someone turns on the ignition. You should hear a whirring sound as the pump primes.

Battery Voltage i'd like 12.3v to start with to have 1 decent crank
it SHOULD NOT DROP BELOW 9V when cranking

You can stick a negative jump lead on the Engine side of the engine mount and back onto the negative terminal of the battery

This is a bypass earth - an alternative earthing route should you have an earthing issue
If the car suddenly starts with jumper on and then wont without - its 100% an earthing fault

Ziggy

Thanks for all the advice.
I'll try and respond to all in sequence.

1. The key code light turns off as normal, no delay and no other unusual lights are appearing on the dash. I unplugged the crank sensor and it did the same thing, not tried to remove or clean it yet.

2. Yes it doesn't start but the starter is trying to spark the engine, I've not tested the starter motor I don't have any electrical testing equipment.


3. Have tried to jump start, just does the same thing, tries to start but doesn't take.
I've not attempted a bump-start, I thought cars with cats don't like it?

4. I've tried the bypass, always does the same thing.

I've put a new battery in does exactly the same thing, checked the fuel bypass, seemed low down but wasn't depressed, I pressed it anyway and it still did the same thing.

Next would be to clean the crank sensor as suggested, or just get a mobile mechanic to come and sort it, I just thought if it was something silly I could do it.

However I will check the fuel, that's one thing I haven't noticed!

Appreciate the help will keep you posted.

I've put more fuel in, it was low but above the red, still the same.
Took up the seats and the pump kicks in as soon as I turn the key.

Dash lights that stay on are the engine light, oil, battery lights and ABS light comes on and off.

tabu said:

I've put more fuel in, it was low but above the red, still the same.
Took up the seats and the pump kicks in as soon as I turn the key.

Dash lights that stay on are the engine light, oil, battery lights and ABS light comes on and off.

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Taking care not to damage the thick cables that go to the spark plugs, pull one off and see if you get a spark when the engine is turned over.

You can get an almighty shock from those things if you are not careful. Avoid getting close to the ends and wear some dry gloves and you should be ok

There was no spark, so does that mean fuel pump?

I thought it may have been the cam belt, but although quite slack it was all in place and turning.

Thanks

tabu said:

There was no spark, so does that mean fuel pump?

I thought it may have been the cam belt, but although quite slack it was all in place and turning.

Thanks

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Assuming you have a two wire crank sensor the resistance should be 960 to 1440 ohms. When you crank the engine the AC voltage it produces should be visible. Mine produces 3.4V but they are all different.

It has a sensor at the top and one at the bottom, I don't have any electrical testing equipment so can't say what the voltage is, will have to get some.

Thanks

Update, I've had it tested and mechanic found one error with the battery being too low ( I returned the new battery and have now subsequently repurchased ) no other errors, says it could be coil packs, sometimes they melt, but these look intact so he's not sure but will return to investigate more thoroughly.

I would change crankshaft sensor, a copy 1 from auction site worked well enough for me, crankshaft sensor won't show on most test equipment. What so both coil packs fail at once? no chance. Failed crank sensor = no spark no start.

Right ok, they look relatively inexpensive so will get one of them and try it out.

Thanks for your help.

Fingers crossed it will start.