I am about to replace my water pump, timing belt and thermostat to cure the leak of coolant.

Should I replace the steel coolant pipe on the front of the block?

Generally they are good but can rust up a lot on the inside even if the coolant has not been maintained to the correct level of corrosion protection. If it looks good and is not leaking from the water pump end in particular I would leave well alone.
There is an o-ring seal at the water pump end that fails and coolant weeps down on to the oil filter. To remove the pipe open off the bigger of the two hoses - you will need a new hose clip. Leave the small one alone if just replacing the o-ring. It will be nearly impossible to remove and there is no need. The pipe pulls straight out and a bit of washing up liquid helps slide it back in with the new o-ring.

That's where it's leaking from, could I get the pipe out in one piece and replace the O ring without damaging it?

Yes, unless the pipe has corroded to bits. Unlikely. The o-ring is a few bob from a dealer. Someone here found the BS equivalent number so most bearing suppliers would have them too. The pipe pulls out with a bit of persuasion. As said above no need to disconnect the small hose. The old ring is probably flat in the external groove near the end of the pipe and may be invisible until you peer at it. And as said above a bit of Fairy liquid helps it push back in.

be prepared that the coolant has to come out

Tbh - they rot eventually - if the seals perished, the metal often isn't in a good condition either
Me personally - i'd replace that coolant rail all together

ziggy

Ziggy122 said:

be prepared that the coolant has to come out

Tbh - they rot eventually - if the seals perished, the metal often isn't in a good condition either
Me personally - i'd replace that coolant rail all together

ziggy

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Over here we put the salt on the fish n chips
I imagine if you have them chucking it about on road things could be different. It's amazing the corrosion of some UK based cars compared to similar age over here.

Brendan W said:

Over here we put the salt on the fish n chips
I imagine if you have them chucking it about on road things could be different. It's amazing the corrosion of some UK based cars compared to similar age over here.

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Its not just the salt - its the grit afterwards that effectly sand blasts the salty/rotten material killing cars.....

The coolant rail aint mega money - i'd throw a new one on tbh

Ziggy

Replaced the water pump today with the timing belt and the leak still remains.

Do I have to take it all back off to replace the pipe. I will quite happily bodge it just to get through the next 6 months, any ideas what I can do it with?

do you know where its leaking from

I will have a look later on seems like the water pump area again. Hopefully it's just a bolt I've not put in rushing to get it done to go to work

gibbopuntomad21 said:

I will have a look later on seems like the water pump area again. Hopefully it's just a bolt I've not put in rushing to get it done to go to work

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Or a screw that is now too long because the replacement pump casting is thinner than the original. Easy does it in there or threads get stripped in the block.

I put a washer in between the bolts still the same, so I decided to turn the steel pipe as it was perished on the O ring and the leak got faster and faster so I've ordered a new pipe with O ring its coming tomorrow.

Do you have to remove the water pump to fit it?

Not sure what engine you're talking about, but the pipe on the FIRE engines has an O-ring which you might want to take a look at (coolant seepage in the area above the oil filter).

Yiiiiieeeeehaw said:

Not sure what engine you're talking about, but the pipe on the FIRE engines has an O-ring which you might want to take a look at (coolant seepage in the area above the oil filter).

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Yeah its a later FIRE engine in my 2002 Mk2. Is it just a case of 2 jubilee clips and slotting it in? Would you suggest any additional sealant