General Crazy consumption of fuel!!

Currently reading:
General Crazy consumption of fuel!!

Try holes in the exhaust mines was eating petrol with that plus my injectors were on the way out
 
I'm back again with the latest details.

I I replaced the spark plugs and airfilter and noticed that the fuel-meter increased from 10.8 to 14.4 after a little trip with the car.

But the car is not going well after the replacement. When on Idle, its sometime shakes with hard "punch" from the engine and sometimes in 2'gear it do the same, shakes/hardpunch like the car is going struggling but when i get some speed and rpm it goes away
 
Hi, I have joined the group because I have the same problem. It may well be the cold weather but the other thing to consider it could be the lambda or engine management temperature sensor. Anybody else had problems recently, my car is Mk2 1.2. I have no temp problems, it goes to half way and stays there but I have closed off half the rad with some cardboard to help warm up times.
 
Last edited:
Hi, I have joined the group because I have the same problem. It may well be the cold weather but the other thing to consider it could be the lambda or engine management temperature sensor. Anybody else had problems recently, my car is Mk2 1.2. I have no temp problems, it goes to half way and stays there but I have closed off half the rad with some cardboard to help warm up times.

Could you show me a image of how your blocking looks like?
 
SOLVED: Bad running and shaky engine

The problem was the spark plugs cables which was very bad inside and didnt plug well into the spark plugs, which caused the engine to jump and running bad and be shaky.

SOLVED: bad Consumption of fuel

After I changed the airfilter, spark plugs and spark plugs cables, all with brand new, the fuel gauge on the dashboard increased from 10.8 to 14.4 km/l. (In cold wheater)

NOT SOLVED:

The cars engine temperatur dosent stay on 90* degrees when I drive, and thats even if i drive in half hour long road. And its takes very long time before the temperatur arrow to rise up. I will provide images of how it looks like later.
 
SOLVED: Bad running and shaky engine

The problem was the spark plugs cables which was very bad inside and didnt plug well into the spark plugs, which caused the engine to jump and running bad and be shaky.

SOLVED: bad Consumption of fuel

After I changed the airfilter, spark plugs and spark plugs cables, all with brand new, the fuel gauge on the dashboard increased from 10.8 to 14.4 km/l. (In cold wheater)

NOT SOLVED:

The cars engine temperatur dosent stay on 90* degrees when I drive, and thats even if i drive in half hour long road. And its takes very long time before the temperatur arrow to rise up. I will provide images of how it looks like later.

temp not rising is bad thermostat, it should be in middle all the time when car warms up
 
Muddz;4015872 The cars engine temperatur dosent stay on 90* degrees when I drive said:
This is typical of a thermostat that is sticking open. There is too much flow to the radiator which is overcooling the motor. The faster you drive the more cooling air you get. When you slow down in town the temperature rises a bit.
 
Brendan W;4015880]This is typical of a thermostat that is sticking open. There is too much flow to the radiator which is overcooling the motor. The faster you drive the more cooling air you get. When you slow down in town the temperature rises a bit.

How do i test if the thermostat is sticking open? Can i take it out and look at it?
 
The way to test is put the stat into a pan of water and start heating. It should move smoothly from closed to open and be fully open before the water starts boiling. Sometimes when you remove them it is stuck open so you don't have to do a test unless you like playing with pots and pans :)
 
Here is how its look like when I'm driving. I took this pic right after i stopped at red trafic light

2s5y2pc.jpg
 
The needle should be at the halfway mark +/- the width of the needle all the time after warm up which even in your ambients should take less than 8 km driving at approx 80 kph.
For normal driving use the only exception is when stopped in traffic the needle can creep up a little before the fan cuts in.
 
The needle should be at the halfway mark +/- the width of the needle all the time after warm up which even in your ambients should take less than 8 km driving at approx 80 kph.
For normal driving use the only exception is when stopped in traffic the needle can creep up a little before the fan cuts in.

So what is your conclusion? a new Thermostat?
I can make more test tomorrow, in the morning, where I start the car and show you how much its goes up on idle after start for 20 min..
 
Yes. New 'stat. Do the test tomorrow anyway. If the stat is working correctly the top hose to the rad should stay cool for 5 minutes or so and then fairly quickly increase in temperature as the stat opens. If it is getting warm slowly from the start it means the stat is stuck open.
 
Back
Top