Technical 2003 (03) Punto cuts out above 3000RPM, yellow engine light comes on

Deviant · May 3, 2014

...then it immediately re-starts as soon as the revs have fallen right off and carries on happily until I get over ~3000 RPM again. Literally drove 200 miles happily like this the other week, so long as I stay under 3k all is dandy. Have searched and searched but can't find any similar problems mentioned - can anyone help?

Haven't had codes read yet, have a broken leg so no driving for another week or two, thought i'd see what i could do about sorting it out as I'm sitting around the house bored most days

my brother suggested changing the HT leads which i may do anyway at £12 a set (on which note, partco have 2 types for my model/year as apparently they changed engine mid-year, how do I tell which type I need? take my old ones off and measure them?)

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance! Oh, and hello from yet another help-begging newbie btw

fingers99 · May 4, 2014

You should be able to get the right leads from any of the specialists, Shop4Parts, eurocarcare.net, FIAT etc. and maybe Partco with the VIN number.

Code read would be interesting.

s and b · May 4, 2014

i think it might be a phonic problem between crank and cam sensor
if im right then either belt needs replacing with tensioner or belts just been done but incorrectly to the point it needs a phonic relearn

Deviant · May 5, 2014

Code read cable

fingers99 said:
You should be able to get the right leads from any of the specialists, Shop4Parts, eurocarcare.net, FIAT etc. and maybe Partco with the VIN number.

Code read would be interesting.

Planning on grabbing a code reader/cable to get a code read - any recommendations? Had a quick look on eBay just now and can see them starting at a fiver for USB/bluetooth options or around £12 for a self-contained unit - what's the thinking on which is the better option?

s and b said:
i think it might be a phonic problem between crank and cam sensor
if im right then either belt needs replacing with tensioner or belts just been done but incorrectly to the point it needs a phonic relearn

If I understand you correctly you think cam belt might need replacing, is that right? That sounds expensive

or is it something I can do myself, or have I misunderstood? and if this IS the problem, am I running a major risk of ruining my engine by continuing to use it in this state?

Just had a thought - a video of it in 'action' might help - wish i'd thought of that 2 days ago as car is at my dad's and I'm not there again till next weekend, will post one then though!

Oh, and thanks for the help so far!

s and b · May 5, 2014

a basic code reader would show fault codes only so whether it would show the timing as out of phase im not sure
if you have a laptop and willing to buy the leads you could use the free version to look at engine ecu and possibly do the phonic relearn
fiatecumultiscan
http://www.multiecuscan.net/

have a read see what it can do for you

fingers99 · May 5, 2014

On the 8v engines the cam belt is a DIY job, and snapping one won't do any engine damage.

16v engines are the opposite.

For the code reader, I'd start cheap, self contained.

Deviant · May 5, 2014

fingers99 said:
On the 8v engines the cam belt is a DIY job, and snapping one won't do any engine damage.

16v engines are the opposite.

For the code reader, I'd start cheap, self contained.

Yeees... how do I tell which type mine is? Some searches on my reg no (BG03 PMU) show it as 16v, some as 8v, so I'm thoroughly confused

s and b said:
a basic code reader would show fault codes only so whether it would show the timing as out of phase im not sure
if you have a laptop and willing to buy the leads you could use the free version to look at engine ecu and possibly do the phonic relearn
fiatecumultiscan

have a read see what it can do for you

I think this is probably the way to go - although I'm still not sure which leads I need to buy as not sure if I have the 99-03 model or 03 onwards, how do I tell the difference?

Thanks once again & in advance guys!

skeogh · May 5, 2014

If you have a round airbox under the bonnet, it's an 8v. If it's a big square one, it's 16. The leads you need are kkl and a red connector (depending on year)

s and b · May 5, 2014

Deviant said:
Yeees... how do I tell which type mine is? Some searches on my reg no (BG03 PMU) show it as 16v, some as 8v, so I'm thoroughly confused

I think this is probably the way to go - although I'm still not sure which leads I need to buy as not sure if I have the 99-03 model or 03 onwards, how do I tell the difference?

Thanks once again & in advance guys!

you have mk2 99 to 03 8 valve with only a fiat badge on bonnet no grille

Deviant · May 11, 2014

s and b said:
you have mk2 99 to 03 8 valve with only a fiat badge on bonnet no grille

Yes, that sounds right - and is what I wanted to hear

as I can stop panicking about losing my engine by driving with it as-is

I have attached a zipped video of exactly what happens when in neutral; the same thing occurs when driving, except that under load the 'dropout' occurs at slightly lower revs - in fifth gear, for example, ~2900RPM (with the annoying result that I can't get above 63MPH on long journeys). Does this offer any confirmation of previous suggestions, or any new possibilities?

Am going to order a lead and/or get an ECU read done this week - just picked the car up yesterday after getting doctor's clearance to drive again, yay!

Thanks again & in advance btw

flisko · May 11, 2014

a guy had same problem as u, need to find that topic

this , its for mk1 but should probably be same s_hit

it may appear it was his fuel pump

Ziggy122 · May 11, 2014

Hmmmm
its same point every time

It could forwell be a lack of fuel pressure, however - im assuming your not taking your foot off when the engine light comes on and the revs cut back?

Its odd.... i'd be inclined todo a fuel pressure test to see wht that would show

Also - you have a bulb malfunction as well
IE a bulb has blown or there is a wrong bulb fitted

Ziggy

fingers99 · May 11, 2014

To me, it sounds like plain old limp mode. But a code read should help identify the reason.

Deviant · May 12, 2014

Ziggy122 said:
Hmmmm
its same point every time

Yes, although that point is lower when under load (ie driving not sitting still)

It could forwell be a lack of fuel pressure, however - im assuming your not taking your foot off when the engine light comes on and the revs cut back?

Yes, sorry, should have said - I'm keeping my foot on the accelerator throughout.

Its odd.... i'd be inclined todo a fuel pressure test to see wht that would show

Also - you have a bulb malfunction as well
IE a bulb has blown or there is a wrong bulb fitted

Ziggy

Which bulb is malfunctioning? can't see one... but then I wouldn't would I

fingers99 · May 12, 2014

Deviant said:
Which bulb is malfunctioning? can't see one... but then I wouldn't would I

Sometimes (but not always) getting out of the car to look is advised. But ghost errors are not unknown.

FCS, code read: it's why your car has a relatively sophisticated diagnostic system. Anything else will involve component purchase and swapping on a hunch, which becomes very expensive, very quickly.

varesecrazy · May 12, 2014

fingers99 said:
Sometimes (but not always) getting out of the car to look is advised. But ghost errors are not unknown.

FCS, code read: it's why your car has a relatively sophisticated diagnostic system. Anything else will involve component purchase and swapping on a hunch, which becomes very expensive, very quickly.

get the codes READ,
where are you, as the MI meet on saturday will have the correct gear..!!,
Charlie

jon1612 · May 12, 2014

Deviant said:
...then it immediately re-starts as soon as the revs have fallen right off and carries on happily until I get over ~3000 RPM again. Literally drove 200 miles happily like this the other week, so long as I stay under 3k all is dandy. Have searched and searched but can't find any similar problems mentioned - can anyone help?

Haven't had codes read yet, have a broken leg so no driving for another week or two, thought i'd see what i could do about sorting it out as I'm sitting around the house bored most days my brother suggested changing the HT leads which i may do anyway at £12 a set (on which note, partco have 2 types for my model/year as apparently they changed engine mid-year, how do I tell which type I need? take my old ones off and measure them?)

Thanks in advance for any and all assistance! Oh, and hello from yet another help-begging newbie btw

Might be something more simple, for those of us who can remember cars without ECU and Managment systems. check your plug gaps, the electrode wears and the gap gets bigger as the revs increase so does the timing advance and the spark becomes reduced then you get a miss fire and the engine wont rev evenly the ecu the detects the missfire causing the light to come on and drop engine revs untill you get a full spark again HOWEVER if the problem happens all the time ( Hot or Cold ) at exactly the same revs its unlikely to be this but worth a look

Jon

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