Either my search mojo has failed, or this is as rare an occurrence as I think it is: but what I think of as the engine warning light (what FIAT lovingly describe as the "injection system failure" light) has stopped coming on, when I turn the ignition key.

So, before I start taking the dash to pieces:

1. Is there any obvious reason why this should happen -- apart from old age...? (I hate coincidences: but it seems amazingly coincidental to me (and a bit of a red herring) that this should happen just after changing the battery... -- especially as all the other warning lights, etc. still work fine....)
2. Is this light soldered on; or is it easily replaceable -- once I've removed the cowl and dials, etc....? (If it's soldered on, I wonder if it's a dry joint? Problem is, my hands are now too shaky for such delicate work: so I'll have to find someone to replace it for me....)
3. Where's the best place to obtain a replacement...? :idea:

Thanks for your help; and any ideas/suggestions you may have....

Mine wasn't working either,
I've also had other electrical gremlins too.
But after taking the battery lead off for abit-following ziggys advice
Alls well again..

Bulbs are solderd in so iread somewhere,

oldhammer said:

Mine wasn't working either,
I've also had other electrical gremlins too.
But after taking the battery lead off for abit-following ziggys advice
Alls well again..

Bulbs are solderd in so iread somewhere,

Click to expand...

Thanks! I thought I'd read this, too...!

Sadly, disconnecting the battery doesn't seem to have helped.... :bang:

Maplins is a good place for bulbs if you've got a branch close by.
I think the bulbs are s.m.d.'s
I'd try heating the solder up first as you say it might be just a dry solder joint.I think you may need a very fine soldering iron.

oldhammer said:

Maplins is a good place for bulbs if you've got a branch close by.
I think the bulbs are s.m.d.'s
I'd try heating the solder up first as you say it might be just a dry solder joint.I think you may need a very fine soldering iron.

Click to expand...

I'd personally not bother with checking for solder joints
I'd be just re-soldering them

Which im afraid Howard is not what you want to hear, since your fingers aren't upto it no more

I'd just use a multi-meter and see if there is even 12v at the SMD and if the SMD is providing a high resistance (blown)

ziggy

Sorry mate,
Ididnt know you had problems with your hands or iwouidnt of mentioned
Getting the soldering iron out..

oldhammer said:

Sorry mate,
Ididnt know you had problems with your hands or iwouidnt of mentioned
Getting the soldering iron out..

Click to expand...

No problem at all...!

You're all going to love this... -- I was so shocked, I didn't even go and get my iPhone from the house, to take a photo.... :spin:

At some stage in the past, either someone has had a problem causing the EML to come on, and 'cured' it by removing it; or it's simply failed to work, and then been replaced... -- but not very well. In fact, I'm amazed that it ever worked....

The problem wasn't a dry solder joint, but a dried out piece of Sellotape: holding the SMD (Sellotape Mounted Device) to the circuit board. It fell off, the moment I unclipped the board from the instrument cluster, never to be seen again. (I presume it had been held in by the pressure of the screen on the tape...?) I then spent a happy ten minutes cleaning off the sticky residue that the tape had left behind, with WD40.

As the car is going into the garage, next week, to have new suspension fitted, I shall get John, the owner (who also happens to be an auto electrician) to solder a new LED on....

I've seen some bodges in my time, but this takes the Custard Cream.... :nono:

However Howard - they are the best fixes

because its blatently obvious whats wrong

Is when you take a part out and there is nothing wrong to the eye it becomes messy

I'd just sorta plug the dash back in - wouldnt bother fitting it up
Saves time for your mech to fix it for you

Ziggy