Heya chaps

Had a start at removing the head this evening and i dont have a clue what random tool is needed for the cylinder head removal. Ive traced throught the many guides on here and can't find anything specific on that as they all seem to start "after" the cylinder cover has been removed. If anyone can shed some light on this i would really appreciate it. In the mean time Im due at Halfords to get a new Haynes book. We are purchasing a new head kit, cam belt, thermostat and ofc head bolts. Possibly a new pump aswell, due to the battering its received.

Many thanks in advance

You will need a proper 13mm socket for the head bolts. I use a six piont long. You might have to shop around a bit to get one that fits. There is one tricky one at the back in the middle that needs a slim version to avoid dismantling the plumbing on the top of the head.
Haynes book is good but they suggest a lot of dismantling that can be avoided. In particular the entire inlet manifold assy can be just sat out of the way. The manifold fasteners are fiddly and a 1/4" drive ratchet with an extension is a big help. If it has overheated there is no way of avoiding a skim or at least a check by a qualified flatness checker.

Yeh, we are definately getting it skimmed. Ordered the new parts about an hour ago. Got new head set, bolts, timing belt kit, new thermostat and new Water pump.

Removal is pretty much basic
Sockets, deep sockets, spanners
Trolley jack - axle stands
and ability to change oil + coolant

Refitting you need a Torque wrench and dial guage
However 90's is do-able just with a tippex mark on the bolts

Cambelt is best been replaced while its off along with water pump

Why did the HG blow anyway?

Ziggy

Stanford said:

H We are purchasing a new head kit, cam belt, thermostat and ofc head bolts. Possibly a new pump aswell, due to the battering its received.

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don't get them bits from halfords

dave said:

don't get them bits from halfords

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What makes you say that dave?

ziggy

Ziggy122 said:

What makes you say that dave?

ziggy

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even with a trade card they are over priced, and there is a good chance they will give you the wrong bits

Hey chaps.

Gasket and new Cylinder head are fitted, Oil changed, new pump on, new Thermo on, new timing belt on. Took a few pops and bangs to get it fired back up again and now we seem to have mis fire on 1 and 2 cylinders. Checked all the leads and spark plugs, they seem to be okay. We are quite puzzled what the problem could be. Has anyone cropped into this before? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Darn this car ><

Check the start it up with the bonnet open (in the dark) look for blue flashes way.

Misfire on 1 and 2 suggests leads (even wrong order -- the right order of the leads, not firing order, is stamped on the coil holder) or malfittage of HG (compression test) to me.

Has OP tested the Oil feed to the top?

pop the rocker cover off - disconnect Crank sensor

and crank the car - peak under - you should see a very healthy supply of oil to the tappets

There was somebody who did a video on looking - but cant find it....

Ziggy

It ran fine before hand, but ofcourse now with the new cylinder head things could be different. We swapped around the ignition lead order, didnt even start. We have all new seals and gaskets fitted as well. Really still puzzled. Some people on here had similar and they were told about earthing problems, or the fuel injectors

Stanford said:

It ran fine before hand, but ofcourse now with the new cylinder head things could be different. We swapped around the ignition lead order, didnt even start. We have all new seals and gaskets fitted as well. Really still puzzled. Some people on here had similar and they were told about earthing problems, or the fuel injectors

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Check the injectors for resistance - they should all have roughly the same injector resistance

If you have a High 2 and then a very low 1 and a medium 1, then there the potential misfiring lot

A Compression test i think is next - find out if cyl1 and 2 are not compressing or something

Ziggy

I assume the compression test requires the block to be removed again? Will check the injectors

Hell no. You can't do a compression test with the head off.

Don't prat around swapping the leads willy nilly. The cylinders are 1,2,3,4 from the timing end, the leads are marked on the coil carrier.

Do the "dark" test. It's cheap (as in free) and utterly reliable.

The no oil scenario Ziggy suggests would account for a lot of noise. Either blocked feed to cam (that copper pipe) or head gasket on the wrong way round (common).

Wrong way around? how would that mess up the firing ?

Wouldn't mess up the firing -- would block the oil flow through to the head.

It ccould well be that we're mixing up your thread with the one of the gur re-fitting Brin's old head.

dave said:

even with a trade card they are over priced, and there is a good chance they will give you the wrong bits

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did u know they spanner they sell are snap on with halfords stamp on them?

We had a rep come into college to give us our Trade cards

There parts are the same manufactor as the car your brought uses

Ie - a volvo belt is from volvo belt manufactures
All they've done is stuck there name on it

Wouldnt suprise me about there tools
However - halfrauds tools are some of the best - sockets and breaker bars etc

Ziggy

Yep, the top end Halfords tools are very good.