Hi it seems to be one think after another with my car and im pretty fed up now. I went out in my car today, was fine. Then my husband went to go out in and and it tried turning over and then stopped, immobilser light came on. Called recovery out who couldn't pick it up on their code reader. They said it could be damp or could be a fault ecu.

I really need to get this fixed. Has anyone any suggestions please. We have tried taking battery off, that hasn't worked.

make sure only one key on keyring
try turning key slower so immobilisor reads the key
make sure the earth bolt on the ecu underneath the airbox is tight (needs airbox removing to check)

surprised no codes readable

Thankyou s and b, tried the first two, still doesn't work. where is teh air box

princess1 said:

...where is teh air box

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This set of pictures might help.... Good luck...!

princess1 said:

Thankyou s and b, tried the first two, still doesn't work. where is teh air box

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You cant miss the HUGE plastic thing thats inside the engine bay....

Simple 1 clip + 2 10mm bolts, remove pull up And Hey presto little earthing strap on the Throttle body - which is the ECU earth

If they key code light is on - then there is a code

Ziggy

Hi thank you for your help. My husband says that the code reader would not link to the ecu

Hi there, i had a huge issue this this a couple of months ago and spent £££ trying to figure it out so hopefully i can try and save you time and worry:

First thing to check is the immobiliser antenna, its linked onto the ignition barrel, should only be £1 or 2 from a scrap yard, i have quite a few here if you would want one, or a auto locks-smith checked mine for free...

Secondly i would start checking the earths on your car, especially the earth on top of the gearbox as this is linked to a few things around the car which could interfere with the keycode...
Also check the ground on the ECU, the ecu is located by the airbox (on both the 16v and 8v) 16v is on top of the throttle bode (pretty much next to the air box and 8v are behind the throttle body, again next to the airbox. These could be at fault (and is quite common with the keycode light)

if all checked and still not working check the voltage from your battery, if you see flatulence, then change the battery.

If all this fails, it could be the ECU, BSI or the Immobiliser itself, If so scrap yards sorted one out for me for £35 all in

Unfortunately for me it was my ECU so i got it changed and it all worked after that

Hope this helps!

If Code reader is not getting readings from the ECU then 100% the ECU is at fault, that is excatly what happened to mine, the road reader just said ERROR LINKING.

anicola02 said:

If Code reader is not getting readings from the ECU then 100% the ECU is at fault, that is excatly what happened to mine, the road reader just said ERROR LINKING.

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Thank you for your help. Is it the ecu you got from scrap yard. How would it work with it not having same chip as my keys.

The oil light is also coming on but there is enough oil in, that only started when immobile light came on.

How would a auto electrican find fault. Spoke to a garage who said It would be cheaper if I could get recovery to take car there and its fourty an hour. How much would call out be is it loads more.

if the ecu needs to be changed so does both fuse boards,key and dash clocks!
everything is tied in.... when you go to a scrappy most of it is in the car including the key (if lucky!)

Thankyou for your help. This car is turning into a nightmare care. Its my first car too . Its one thing after another, first the crank shaft had to be replace, then had to put a new battery in, then it had to have a new bonnet catch as it snapped. Its had new front wipers. Now this.

What am i better off doing, i don't really know anything about cars apart from how to drive it, how to do oil, etc. Should i phone around in the morning and see if i can get a auto electrican to come out or get recovery to take it to a garage to get fixed. Is this going to cost me hundreds off pounds

Does the ecu need to be fitted by an expert?

Scrap it might get you £200 then buy another £500-1000 punto mk2 there are loads about its just not worth keep spending the money, you probably should have done this with the crank shaft problem

Just checked the earth and it seems to be connected ok.

AndyRKett said:

Scrap it might get you £200 then buy another £500-1000 punto mk2 there are loads about its just not worth keep spending the money, you probably should have done this with the crank shaft problem

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I can't afford to go out and buy another car. This one cost me 1500 and only had it five and half months. I wish i had px it last week.

princess1 said:

Just checked the earth and it seems to be connected ok.

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An earth can be connected okay - but is it clean bright shiny metal on clean bright shiny metal?

If a terminal is corroded or what its bonding onto is corrodded it'll seriously affect the Earthing effect

Ziggy

Ziggy122 said:

An earth can be connected okay - but is it clean bright shiny metal on clean bright shiny metal?

If a terminal is corroded or what its bonding onto is corrodded it'll seriously affect the Earthing effect

Ziggy

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Hi Ziggy, it doesn't look clean it looks dirty.

Im begining to wonder if the seller knew that there was problems with the car when they sold it to me.

if it was working fine and then just stopped and no codes
i cant imagine it should be difficult to solve for someone with half a box of sockets
can you not pull any flavours in your family etc to come and give it a viewing?

s and b said:

if it was working fine and then just stopped and no codes
i cant imagine it should be difficult to solve for someone with half a box of sockets
can you not pull any flavours in your family etc to come and give it a viewing?

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My brother is the only one who has a clue about cars and he doesn't know how to fix it . Just phoned a garage and they said it sounds serious and to contact fiat. But i don't want to contact fiat as it will cost me even more.

Hi there, if the diagnosis reader cannot read the ECU faults, the BSI behind the fuse board is not communicating with the ECU properly, Im afraid it is the ECU

If you go down scrap yard, what you have to do is get the ECU, BSI (behind the fusebox) Locks (petrol cap and boot lock, but if you get one off a remote locking car, you dont have to worry about the door locks so much, but would be handy) and thats about pretty much it, probably takes a hour to fit it all. no problem. There is a scrap yard down here that does them for quite cheap (got mine for around 25-35 quid i think so you shouldnt have to worry.
DO NOT BUY OFF EBAY, mistake i did. Cant stress that enough.

anicola02 said:

Hi there, if the diagnosis reader cannot read the ECU faults, the BSI behind the fuse board is not communicating with the ECU properly, Im afraid it is the ECU

If you go down scrap yard, what you have to do is get the ECU, BSI (behind the fusebox) Locks (petrol cap and boot lock, but if you get one off a remote locking car, you dont have to worry about the door locks so much, but would be handy) and thats about pretty much it, probably takes a hour to fit it all. no problem. There is a scrap yard down here that does them for quite cheap (got mine for around 25-35 quid i think so you shouldnt have to worry.
DO NOT BUY OFF EBAY, mistake i did. Cant stress that enough.

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WOAH there nelly!!

Just because his code reader wont connect it could be the inncorrect type

If you wish to get a cheap VAG-com cable or KKL cable off ebay cheap
or an ELM 247? *current version?*



Get Multi Ecu Scan - (Fiat ecu scan) trial edition - and get the code
Better to spend £10 to potentially fix it then give it a drastic diagnosis and be swapping stuff that aint needed

Ziggy