Technical Shock absorbers
- Thread starter RaulCarnahan
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Technical Shock absorbers
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yes
whatever you do make sure you put plenty of penetrating type fluid on the lower exposed thread of the bolt showing in the back of the axle
ideally if you know of someone with an airgun ask them to wizz it out for you as they can be a pain if done with a ratchet as the rust tightens them up in the thread even if you do the old trick of undo a bit tighten undo a bit tighten etc
whatever you do make sure you put plenty of penetrating type fluid on the lower exposed thread of the bolt showing in the back of the axle
ideally if you know of someone with an airgun ask them to wizz it out for you as they can be a pain if done with a ratchet as the rust tightens them up in the thread even if you do the old trick of undo a bit tighten undo a bit tighten etc
Yes, universal 
Clean your bolts well with a wire brush and spray this stuff on the threads. Let it work in for about an hour. Should fly off after that
Clean your bolts well with a wire brush and spray this stuff on the threads. Let it work in for about an hour. Should fly off after that
OP
OP
What tools do I need to change the rear shock absorbers?
My friend said I need spring clamps, although I don't see why I would need them, I'm not changing the springs. And haynes manual doesn't mention much either.
My friend said I need spring clamps, although I don't see why I would need them, I'm not changing the springs. And haynes manual doesn't mention much either.
No need for clamps at the rear, loosen the top and bottom bolts on each side, support the wieght of the axle with a jack, scissor jack will do fine, then remove bolts and lower the jack...the spring will just come out after u lower it so much.
Yes, those bolts are a pain to get out, took me ages to get mine out using a ratchet. Then dreaded doing the other side...
Yes, those bolts are a pain to get out, took me ages to get mine out using a ratchet. Then dreaded doing the other side...
OP
OP
I was thinking of using axle stands instead of jacks.
And cheers for clearing that up. If they're that rusty, am I safe to use them bolts again or should I get some new bolts instead?
And cheers for clearing that up. If they're that rusty, am I safe to use them bolts again or should I get some new bolts instead?
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the only reason you need to jack up is to get to the top bolt
so
undo the bottom one first
then jack up just enough on the sill to get your ratchet and extension on the top one
and reversal as they say
this way spring doesnt fall out (it wont anyway if you do one side at a time)
of course you can jack up very slightly under the rear beem for replacement if it helps but shouldnt be necessary
get some extra bolts from the scrappies if concerned
just clean the threads with a wire brush and some oil prior to replacement should suffice though
top bolts are never a problem but you can squirt oil in before removal from the other side of the chassis entry point
im assuming mk2 here by the way,always was
so
undo the bottom one first
then jack up just enough on the sill to get your ratchet and extension on the top one
and reversal as they say
this way spring doesnt fall out (it wont anyway if you do one side at a time)
of course you can jack up very slightly under the rear beem for replacement if it helps but shouldnt be necessary
get some extra bolts from the scrappies if concerned
just clean the threads with a wire brush and some oil prior to replacement should suffice though
top bolts are never a problem but you can squirt oil in before removal from the other side of the chassis entry point
im assuming mk2 here by the way,always was
