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Old 19-10-2011   #1
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mk 2 heater blower help

hi im fairly new to this so please be nice lol

i have a fiat punto 1.2 8v active x 52 plate
recently the blower speed control destroyed itself i bodged that so it was permantly on by shorting out the connectors inside the control till i could get a new one (anyone no where i can get one of them )

all was fine then the blower started to become intermittent unless i bashed the center console then it would come back on.

now it will not work at all.
i have seen the guide about bypassing the wire at the connector block however the colours are different

could some one provide a simple step by step guide for my make and model im comfortable with doing it myself as im handy with a spanner lol
and i lothe going to dealers and garages if i can avoid it.

thats problem 1

problem 2 is the gurgeling from the passanger side iv had that ever since i got it serviced last year iv cheacked my coolent level its fine iv never had to top it up i suspected some air in there some where so i bled it and refilled it using the guides i could find but still its there i dont think iits the head gasket as i have no overheating no coolent issues or performance issues so im stumpped on that one any suggestions would be welcome and any tips on getting the most mpg out of it it says im getting average of 42mpg but it seems like less

end of essay lol


many thanks
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Old 19-10-2011   #2
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Re: mk 2 heater blower help

problem 1 - is probably the Switch itself - or the resistors behind it

Eitherway - start with fuse - relay etc test fan etc etc

As for problem 2
Oh dear i had that 2.... a Constant gurgle that never goes away
Again - can was driving a dream - then i was out for the day - it became a rocket car
And well.... checked it next day - Gung and mayo

I'd keep a close eye on it
You can compression test and sniff test as well to see if the head has gone

If the hg has gone - the 8v engine is a DIY repair

ziggy
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Old 19-10-2011   #3
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Re: mk 2 heater blower help

When the cooling system is gurgling you absolutely have a leak. Leave it and soon enough the head gasket (HG) will fail. They are not as unreliable as the number of posts would suggest, but they DO NOT COPE WITH LOW COOLANT.

Get the leak sorted by flushing the cooling system with RadFlush (read the instructions on the pack). Run the engine with water for a few days because dirt clogs small holes and you have just cleaned out the dirt. Fix the leaking part(s) and put in some good quality red coolant.

If the HG has failed, fix it and then do the coolant flush etc, because there will be a leak somewhere. While the engine is apart change the cam belt and water pump and check the coolant rail (google it) is all good.

Get that lot sorted and you'll have a reliable car.
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Last edited by DaveMcT; 19-10-2011 at 22:19.
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Old 20-10-2011   #4
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Re: mk 2 heater blower help

Ok update

Fixed the heater blower it was the blue wire on the connector that had burnt out
So I put a new connector on and works fine still need to replace the control for it
Where can I get one of them? And what's a good price

Gonna try and sort out the gurgling later hopfully just an air lock but bleeding the bugger is a sod du to the bleed points any good tips on getting air out iv read the guides but there are alot of contradiction ie blower on hi Squeez pipes slant the car ect what's the best way to do it

Failing that I'll get it tested under pressure

Thanks for the advice so far ppl
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Old 20-10-2011   #5
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Re: mk 2 heater blower help

Bleeding is pretty easy
Yes you want the heaters on HOT, as there is a valve that allows flow into the heater matrix. When thats closed it can sometimes cause problems

Start by Filling up the radiator bottle upto the very very top - open the radiator bleed valve and the rear bleed valve
Keep the Radiator topped up.
When the coolant flowing out the rad valve shut it
When the fluid comes out the rear valve shut it

Sometimes there isn't enough force to bleed the rear bleed valve
This is where the Squeezing comes in
Put the rad valve on, Squeeze the bottom rad hose - keep hold the pipe while you shut the rear bleeder. Squeeze pipe - open valve - keep hold of pipe while you shut

Basically you want to make sure it's forcing air out
KEep going till you are back at the max mark.

Run the engine till its hot and the fan kicks in
Let it cool - check fluid level

If its gone below min level - You need to bleed it again
These cars dont cope without good coolant levels

Hope this sorta helps

Ziggy
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