General Changing Sump and Pads?
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General Changing Sump and Pads?
You mean brake pads? There not too hard, neither is the sump. The main problem you will have with the sump (if it hasn't been off before) is prying it off the block once you have all the bolts out, they can be a right bitch sometimes. Also you will probably have to take off the fly-wheel cover attached to the gearbox, I think its held on by 3 bolts iirc. Your best bet will be to get a very thin flat-bladed screwdriver and pry it open, but be careful not to score or chisel the edges too much. Thats how I got mine off 
As for the pads, you just need to take the calliper off and you can get the pads out to replace.
EDIT: That's my advice for a MK1 anyway, if that's what you have.
As for the pads, you just need to take the calliper off and you can get the pads out to replace.
EDIT: That's my advice for a MK1 anyway, if that's what you have.
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Also carefully clean the slots that the brake pads run in and treat with a good quality anti seize paste. If the caliper does not slide easily the sliding pins may have to be stripped.
If the discs are grooved replace these as well.
Why does the sump need to be removed?
If its necessary to remove the sump, get a 30mm wide cheap paint scraper from B&Q ideally something stiff. Use this as a chisel to knock into the sump gasket. Clean the surfaces carefully and refit with a new gasket and some Loctite 518 anaerobic gasket eliminator.
DO NOT USE SILICONE RTV. Lumps break off and clog the oil system.
If the discs are grooved replace these as well.
Why does the sump need to be removed?
If its necessary to remove the sump, get a 30mm wide cheap paint scraper from B&Q ideally something stiff. Use this as a chisel to knock into the sump gasket. Clean the surfaces carefully and refit with a new gasket and some Loctite 518 anaerobic gasket eliminator.
DO NOT USE SILICONE RTV. Lumps break off and clog the oil system.
Thanks! I have a mk1 so thanks for that. Biggest job ive ever done is change the rocket gasket, which was easy. Saves me money plus I gain my mechanical and practical knowledge, which at the moment i don't have much of.
I find it best to try things yourself. When I started driving I didn't have a clue about cars, probably couldn't change a spark plug if you asked me too. Now I can removed/rebuild engines and a whole variety of other jobs. Even though I learnt all this via bad situations, still learnt it =D
Along with what Sei said, don't use universal gasket sealant either. I tried it first time I did a sump and it was totally useless. Didn't seal & clogged the oil pick-up. AVOID!
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Whats wrong with the sump?
mk1's are easy to maintain and service; get both the haynes and the porter manuals plus a cd with eper on it or use the one here (for part numbers); use the guides/threads here also; pads are easy to do; sump much more of a challenge, did it without removing the exhaust and initially must have knocked off some of the sealant as it leaked at the gearbox end and I had to do it again; there is no gasket and you MUST use the correct sealnt...
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The Loctite anaerobic is probably the best stuff. Not cheap but very handy to have in the toolbox.
Hello folks, I am in the same boat with my '00 1.2 8v punto, it started seeping oil through the front face of the sump.
What would you suggest I use instead of silicone RTV? I got stuck (literally) lastnight when the sump would NOT free from the bottom of the block!
Also, there was some sort of bracket bolted through the flywheel dust shield at the back of the engine and bolted onto the back of the block. What on earth is this for?! I dont see what purpose it serves other than to cause me to lose a couple of knuckles!
Any help greatly appreciated!
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You will need a sharp but stiff scraper to tap into the joint to cut the sealant.
No idea about the bracket.
No idea about the bracket.
must be user error rest of us user the correct stuff rtv sealant and have no problems at all
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I'm sure it was user error but I have seen the consequences of the stuff. More modern sealants do a better job with fewer risks when too much sealant is used.
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The bloke who invented silicones died 61 years ago.
[ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_Kipping[/ame]
The sealants like 518 are the latest generation setting flexible rather than like glass as the early stuff did. The BIG advantage is they stay liquid outside the joint so any excess gets washed away and does no harm to the engine. Silicone cures right through and any loose lumps can clog the engine oil-ways.
Its one thing using the stuff in controlled conditions on a production line. Its altogether another issue struggling under a dirty engine. For what it costs extra why take the risks.
[ame]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frederick_Kipping[/ame]
The sealants like 518 are the latest generation setting flexible rather than like glass as the early stuff did. The BIG advantage is they stay liquid outside the joint so any excess gets washed away and does no harm to the engine. Silicone cures right through and any loose lumps can clog the engine oil-ways.
Its one thing using the stuff in controlled conditions on a production line. Its altogether another issue struggling under a dirty engine. For what it costs extra why take the risks.
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