Technical Flashing Engine Light afer new cambelt..

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Technical Flashing Engine Light afer new cambelt..

Like I said, if you're not sure of the temp, then feeling the top rad hose is hot is a good sign it's ok to do the procedure.

No problem with the rev counter either. Just rev it 3 times and see, if the light still flashes then rev it higher again. Failing that you can rev it 'til it just hits the limiter- it won't do any damage.
 
Like I said, if you're not sure of the temp, then feeling the top rad hose is hot is a good sign it's ok to do the procedure.

No problem with the rev counter either. Just rev it 3 times and see, if the light still flashes then rev it higher again. Failing that you can rev it 'til it just hits the limiter- it won't do any damage.

Hi .
I would like to say a huge thanks to everyone , and specially D4nny8oy. i have done exactly what you said and my engine managemet light went off! It looks like they did not perform well in the garage. My question now is - Do they supposed to know this? Is it characteristic only for FIAT or most of the cars?
Thanks all
 
My question now is - Do they supposed to know this? Is it characteristic only for FIAT or most of the cars?

It's not a secret- if they had rung a Dealer they would've been told the procedure. We've told every customer who's bought an ECU over the Parts counter, plus it's been repeated on here many a time. ;)

To my knowledge it's Fiat specific, although not working on multi-franchise vehicles, I can't say for definate.

(y)
 
Thanks for this useful info.
Reading higher up this post, how common is it for repairers who have disturbed the coolant system to not bleed the system properly? Is it really difficult or something?
 
I passed on what I was told to stop my ECU light from coming up - and TBH it worked for me. But regardless thanks for correcting my mistake.

D
 
I passed on what I was told to stop my ECU light from coming up - and TBH it worked for me. But regardless thanks for correcting my mistake.

D

No probs, what you described sounded more like the general procedure to be run after resetting the self-adaption parameters to allow the ECU to 'learn' the various ignition/map settings.

(y)
 
If they are in a rush, I should imagine it is common. Particularly if it may send some labour-intensive head-gasket work their way.
O'h Mike, you've just made me all paranoid again! If you are paying somebody £55 an hour, surely you have a right to expect that:
a. they know the correct procedures
b. they will put right any knock-on damage that they cause.
Yeah I know - I'm living in cloud cuckoo land again!
 
If they are in a rush, I should imagine it is common. Particularly if it may send some labour-intensive head-gasket work their way.


Hehehe that’s really uplifting.... Well. Why blame only car mechanics for being sloppy when in rush? Lets say - you going to hairdresser! Oh... he forgot to cut hair on the left side of your head. hhehe and accidentally cut of your ear...hehe. Sorry for being sloppy but it is not my problem he says...I'm in a rush!! Seriously - i think they do not care cause in the most cases people like me do not know exactly what is going on , so why bother then. That’s why we should have a database of people who, despite lack of your knowledge, will do the job properly.
 
Thanks for passing all this stuff on Guys!
I dont know if mine is fixed yet but sounds like it. We have a connection with an Alfa DealershipWe so had them change the cam belt on our 'Fiat duo logic 1.2 500'. Thought Alfa mechanics were from the same box as Fiat and should've known how to do the job. They put the P0300 code down to the coil pack failing ( at 36000 miles) And so did the RAC man after Mrs BSB got stuck .
So we changed the plugs, leads and coil pack for new ones. no difference at all! £120 spent but luckily I did the swap ( Was quoted at least £360 for the pro's to do it).
Thanks for now ill try to report again in a few weeks.
 
Thanks for this useful info.
Reading higher up this post, how common is it for repairers who have disturbed the coolant system to not bleed the system properly? Is it really difficult or something?

The Punto cooling system can be a PITA to bleed properly...as a few on here can probably testify to, including me after i changed the Thermostat on mine
If the repairers are in a Rush then they probably just did a quick bleed and said 'that'l do it'....
Plus as someone else pointed out , if they screwed up and HG goes then they probably expect to get the job to replace it and make more money :mad:

Bleeding Punto isn't hard to do, just time consuming as it always seems to have more air in the system just when you think you got it all out !
If you manage to get all the air out then you don't get Gurgling noise from the heater inside the car, which is the biggest giveaway as to whether there is air in it or not.
 
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Thanks for passing all this stuff on Guys!
I dont know if mine is fixed yet but sounds like it. We have a connection with an Alfa DealershipWe so had them change the cam belt on our 'Fiat duo logic 1.2 500'. Thought Alfa mechanics were from the same box as Fiat and should've known how to do the job. They put the P0300 code down to the coil pack failing ( at 36000 miles) And so did the RAC man after Mrs BSB got stuck .
So we changed the plugs, leads and coil pack for new ones. no difference at all! £120 spent but luckily I did the swap ( Was quoted at least £360 for the pro's to do it).
Thanks for now ill try to report again in a few weeks.
Damn, I tried the simple Phonic wheel routine, but the engine light has come on again.
I'm still not clear if I need to use any sort of ecu read/write lead to do this PWL procedure? I couldn't find anything on this site but google brought up some other places which suggest I need a lead and some software......
How likely is it that the engine runs lovely but is a tooth out following cam belt change?
Sensitive little thing this car. (smiley face)
 
Damn, I tried the simple Phonic wheel routine, but the engine light has come on again.
I'm still not clear if I need to use any sort of ecu read/write lead to do this PWL procedure? I couldn't find anything on this site but google brought up some other places which suggest I need a lead and some software......
How likely is it that the engine runs lovely but is a tooth out following cam belt change?
Sensitive little thing this car. (smiley face)

If it's one tooth out the ECU tries it's best to correct the timing, had a Seicento sporting that regularly used to throw its cambelt out a tooth and it still ran OK....although then it would throw another tooth and stop....
Of course if it is one tooth out you lose power from the engine as it isn't at it's optimal settings (ie firing at TDC)
Sounds like that Garage did extremely sloppy work
 
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If it's one tooth out the ECU tries it's best to correct the timing, had a Seicento sporting that regularly used to throw its cambelt out a tooth and it still ran OK....although then it would throw another tooth and stop....
Of course if it is one tooth out you lose power from the engine as it isn't at it's optimal settings (ie firing at TDC)
Sounds like that Garage did extremely sloppy work

Scud I think you are mixing up ignition timing with valve timing?
 
Its all linked.
If the Cam Belt is one tooth out then yes the valves open and close at the wrong time (slightly) since the Camshaft is not quite in the right position, It also affects the Spark firing since the ECU uses cam sensor and crank sensor to know when to spark (which is at normally just before TDC to provide maximum power to force the piston down). One Tooth out on the Camshaft means the Valves will open/close fractionally off from where they should so the compression will be wrong, BUT there will still be enough compression for the engine to run.
If the Cambelt is too far out then the engine wont run as it doesn't have enough compression or enough fuel/air mix to ignite or the spark will be sent at completely the wrong time(which is why the Engine has to be timed up).
On older cars that had distributors not only did you have timing marks on the Crank and Cam, you also adjusted the Ignition timing by rotating the Distributor slightly, doing so Increased the RPM slightly or Decreased it slightly depending on which direction you turned the Dizzie....
When the Engine is properly timed up and running the spark needs to fire at a different point in order to fire the fuel mix at its maximum compression as the RPM increases or decreases, this is called ignition advance and Retard and the ECU does this Electronically. Cars with Distributors did it mechanically with a Vacuum.
So with the Camshaft slightly out the ECU tries to Compensate for it by sending the spark at a different time in order to try and make the engine run as efficiently as it can, hence the Engine appears to be running OK.
So basically the Engine will run, but it will have less power and not be as efficient as it should even tho it appears to be running OK.
On the Plus side, the 8V being a Non interference engine means that if the Valve timing is out then you wont mash anything, although long term you risk damaging both the valves and valve seats and possibly the cams on the camshaft.
 
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Its all linked.
If the Cam Belt is one tooth out then yes the valves open and close at the wrong time (slightly) since the Camshaft is not quite in the right position, It also affects the Spark firing since the ECU uses cam sensor and crank sensor to know when to spark (which is at normally just before TDC to provide maximum power to force the piston down). One Tooth out on the Camshaft means the Valves will open/close fractionally off from where they should so the compression will be wrong, BUT there will still be enough compression for the engine to run.
If the Cambelt is too far out then the engine wont run as it doesn't have enough compression or enough fuel/air mix to ignite or the spark will be sent at completely the wrong time(which is why the Engine has to be timed up).
On older cars that had distributors not only did you have timing marks on the Crank and Cam, you also adjusted the Ignition timing by rotating the Distributor slightly, doing so Increased the RPM slightly or Decreased it slightly depending on which direction you turned the Dizzie....
When the Engine is properly timed up and running the spark needs to fire at a different point in order to fire the fuel mix at its maximum compression as the RPM increases or decreases, this is called ignition advance and Retard and the ECU does this Electronically. Cars with Distributors did it mechanically with a Vacuum.
So with the Camshaft slightly out the ECU tries to Compensate for it by sending the spark at a different time in order to try and make the engine run as efficiently as it can, hence the Engine appears to be running OK.
So basically the Engine will run, but it will have less power and not be as efficient as it should even tho it appears to be running OK.
On the Plus side, the 8V being a Non interference engine means that if the Valve timing is out then you wont mash anything, although long term you risk damaging both the valves and valve seats and possibly the cams on the camshaft.

Intuition is telling me that if the ECU knew the exact camshaft position relative to the crankshaft position we would be able to fine tune our engines by plugging in the OBD cable to get the camshaft error so we could stop the engine and attempt again to make a better adjustment. For sure one tooth out would give an error code. It would also be possible to do this on a DIY basis by monitoring the two sensors at the same time. Evidently fiat believes it would not be very accurate if we tried it.
 
Thanks for passing all this stuff on Guys!
I dont know if mine is fixed yet but sounds like it. We have a connection with an Alfa DealershipWe so had them change the cam belt on our 'Fiat duo logic 1.2 500'. Thought Alfa mechanics were from the same box as Fiat and should've known how to do the job. They put the P0300 code down to the coil pack failing ( at 36000 miles) And so did the RAC man after Mrs BSB got stuck .
So we changed the plugs, leads and coil pack for new ones. no difference at all! £120 spent but luckily I did the swap ( Was quoted at least £360 for the pro's to do it).
Thanks for now ill try to report again in a few weeks.
see here
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto-v/4...iming-belt-change-phonic-wheel.html?p=4300532
Its seems to have fixed it.
 
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