Yellow gunk/oil splashing into air box via crankcase breather, wtf...
I replaced the crankcase cover gasket thinking it might of been that or the breather blocked which is no longer blocked aswell. is it piston rings need replacing? i'm replacing the main head gasket this weekend so should i replace the pistons aswell??
another symptom is a bad sounding grind noise on 1st rev before fully starting up... but it happens rarely.
Thanks
-mo

ANY HELP :bang:

Momanatorz said:

ANY HELP :bang:

Click to expand...

I'd guess your replacement HG should cure that... or do you do loads of short journeys?

"another symptom is a bad sounding grind noise on 1st rev before fully starting up"

Possibly the starter motor... assuning the oil isnt totally waterlogged of course, in which case the HG change and fresh oil / filter will do the car wonders!

Ffoxy said:

I'd guess your replacement HG should cure that... or do you do loads of short journeys?

"another symptom is a bad sounding grind noise on 1st rev before fully starting up"

Possibly the starter motor... assuning the oil isnt totally waterlogged of course, in which case the HG change and fresh oil / filter will do the car wonders!

Click to expand...

Thanks for your reply!

I just bought the car in that condition, and i think it did do short journeys as it was my neighbours car.
I hope thr new HG will fix it.
the grinding noise happens like once a week, so it's the starter motor? the car does drink all the water.. which is why i'm replacing head gasket aswell.
having trouble removing the oil drain on the sump too, gonna have to drill hole in oil filter for now... I guess.
and get a new sump?

Ffoxy said:

I'd guess your replacement HG should cure that... or do you do loads of short journeys?

"another symptom is a bad sounding grind noise on 1st rev before fully starting up"

Possibly the starter motor... assuning the oil isnt totally waterlogged of course, in which case the HG change and fresh oil / filter will do the car wonders!

Click to expand...

Hello again, I did the HG change, without skimming. Replaced valve stem seals. Cleaned head and block surface as much as i could, it was pretty clean. and suffer from coolant level dropping... white smoke and oil smoke. smoke coming out of valve cover breather, and through dipstick hole when i take it out... some random mis-firing on idle and around 2-3k revs or when revs are kept constant speed. i think the head is not flat... needs skimming? if i knew it was cheap is it i would of done it before...
would skimming fix these problems? I've spent so much time on this engine and i want to know if i should spend anymore or scrap it
Please help Foxy

Ffoxy said:

I'd guess your replacement HG should cure that... or do you do loads of short journeys?

"another symptom is a bad sounding grind noise on 1st rev before fully starting up"

Possibly the starter motor... assuning the oil isnt totally waterlogged of course, in which case the HG change and fresh oil / filter will do the car wonders!

Click to expand...

Some more info... i replaced the plugs aswell after HG change and they went oily real fast... pitch black at the tips. i think this is oil problem cos of head not being flat aswell as water going into cylinder and burned off? but i don't suffer the mayo stuff oil at all...

Momanatorz said:

Some more info... i replaced the plugs aswell after HG change and they went oily real fast... pitch black at the tips. i think this is oil problem cos of head not being flat aswell as water going into cylinder and burned off? but i don't suffer the mayo stuff oil at all...

Click to expand...

Should always always skim the head when the gasket is being replaced, they warp easily and the warping can be imperceptible to the naked eye, really needs a good looking at by an experienced engineer to see how much skimming is needed, its probably the best place to start, but its impossible to say if that is the only problem, maybe the valve stem seals are slack and leaky, could be bore wear or piston ring failure... depends on mileage and maintainance, or the lack of it before you got it.

Ffoxy said:

Should always always skim the head when the gasket is being replaced, they warp easily and the warping can be imperceptible to the naked eye, really needs a good looking at by an experienced engineer to see how much skimming is needed, its probably the best place to start, but its impossible to say if that is the only problem, maybe the valve stem seals are slack and leaky, could be bore wear or piston ring failure... depends on mileage and maintainance, or the lack of it before you got it.

Click to expand...

compression test was good, 213, 209, 219, 219
it has 85k

Momanatorz said:

compression test was good, 213, 209, 219, 219
it has 85k

Click to expand...

Number 2 is down, but not hugely without knowing what the "good" figure should be.
But oil leakage doesnt necessarily mean poor compression unless its the compression rings gone rather than the oil rings.
Possibly the head is warped between cylinders 1 & 2?

Ffoxy said:

Number 2 is down, but not hugely without knowing what the "good" figure should be.
But oil leakage doesnt necessarily mean poor compression unless its the compression rings gone rather than the oil rings.
Possibly the head is warped between cylinders 1 & 2?

Click to expand...

I see, i understand now. you may be right about the warp area!
there was a bunch of oil gathered around the exhaust for cylinder two and alot of oil in it the last time i took the head off.
I will try gettin it skimmed by a mechanic and see results from there. i really need this car...

Momanatorz said:

I see, i understand now. you may be right about the warp area!
there was a bunch of oil gathered around the exhaust for cylinder two and alot of oil in it the last time i took the head off.
I will try gettin it skimmed by a mechanic and see results from there. i really need this car...

Click to expand...

Have the valve seats checked & cut in or re-ground while the head is off and fit new valve stem seals too.

Ffoxy said:

Have the valve seats checked & cut in or re-ground while the head is off and fit new valve stem seals too.

Click to expand...

I have replaced the seals. why do i need to get the valve seats checked?

Momanatorz said:

I have replaced the seals. why do i need to get the valve seats checked?

Click to expand...

Just in case they are not seating & sealing properly, as the head is coming off it is the perfect time to do it TBH...especially as a machine shop may have the head for skimming.

Dont skimp on the re-assembly either, new Head gasket and bolts are needed as they stretch when torqued up, they need to be tightened in the correct sequence & to the right amount too or you could warp it again...

Ffoxy said:

Just in case they are not seating & sealing properly, as the head is coming off it is the perfect time to do it TBH...especially as a machine shop may have the head for skimming.

Click to expand...

Ok cool, much appreciation for your advice, Foxy. I will see if I can afford cost to do the valve seats

Momanatorz said:

Ok cool, much appreciation for your advice, Foxy. I will see if I can afford cost to do the valve seats

Click to expand...

Dont miss this bit, I added it as an Edit..
"Dont skimp on the re-assembly either, new Head gasket and bolts are needed as they stretch when torqued up, they need to be tightened in the correct sequence & to the right amount too or you could warp it again..."

Ffoxy said:

Dont miss this bit, I added it as an Edit..
"Dont skimp on the re-assembly either, new Head gasket and bolts are needed as they stretch when torqued up, they need to be tightened in the correct sequence & to the right amount too or you could warp it again..."

Click to expand...

Yes of course! I've taken the head off twice already and have to take it off a 3rd time.. been through 2 sets of head bolts. need to order another set again. and new head gasket.
I torque them up as accurately as i can.. with some tip-ex for the angle turns tehee.