Technical Leaking from diff/driveshaft... Here we go again

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Technical Leaking from diff/driveshaft... Here we go again

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As you might know, when i got my punto, the subframe needed replacing as the gearbox mount point was ruined and allowing too much movement from the engine/gearbox.

Afters sorting this, i noticed a leak from the diff at the rear of the gearbox where the passenger side driveshaft enters. As I didnt have the time myself to do it, i had a friend at the local garage sort the seals out for me. It still leaks but only sometimes. I top the gbox up nearly everyday, but somedays I'll go out and find a pool of gbox oil under the car, other days its dry. I asked my mate at the garage and he said "If it aint the seals, chances are its the bearings allowing too much play." He said this would explain why sometimes its dry and sometimes leaks - depends how the driveshaft is positioned when i park up.

I dont wanna pester him anymore about it, so next week ima tackle it myself. Haynes bible doesn't cover it, but Ive got the EPER diagram for the diff. Not sure which bearing hes talking about tho.

Any suggestions? How accessable are the parts in the diff? please dont tell me its a gbox out and apart job :S
 

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Never got round to it this week as if i needed any more parts, i wouldnt have a car to get them. ill have the cinq for a few days this week, so ill do it then (y)

He didnt fit new clips as he asked me to get the bits. i asked at the parts desk for all the parts to renew the driveshaft seals and they didnt give me any clips :rolleyes: so hopefully it'll be an easy enuff fix. Thanks for the advice dave (y) ill let you know how i get on. Looks like it'll just be a case of removing that flange judging by the pic, no matter what part needs replacing (i hope)
 
is it definitely coming from the drive shaft not part of the casing

the seals may have been fitted wrong there is a fiat tool to insert them to the correct depth in the gearbox casing also they may have been damaged if they were fitted with other means (hammer and punch)
 
it's a specific fiat tool not sure if public can order it I assume they can it has a part number after all

you may be able to get one if you flag down an interweb and have a search

but without it it's very hard to fit these seals correctly or to the correct depth
 
1870629000

this is the part number for the tool this is actually the near side tool I think but it will do the offside too the reason I use it for both is the other one seems to have been misplaced at work

I have just change both of my drive shaft seals and all is dry at the moment

filled it up with fiat lubricanti tutela 75 synthetic

the gear change is soooo much nicer with the actual fiat oil in i had used castrol syntrax 75 semi synth before but this is miles better
 
Littlepip - is it possible to remove the diff end of the driveshaft without removing the whole driveshaft? How do you get the trackrod end off to pull the hub further forward? ive removed the nut underneath but it just wont budge :bang:

BTW - thanks for the part number, ill be sure to buy one when i come to replace the seals (y)
 
A tiny bit of grease around the seal can help them seal better.
 
yea there is a difference in depth of both the seals but it's so little it don't make a difference so that part number will do for both no point in buying 2 for one job

I took of both the upright bolts and the track rod end then left the bottom ball joint on

mainly cos I was doing it on axle stands and also cos I coper slipped them bolts when I did the top mount's so I knew they would come undone easily

when I have cars on lifts I only need to undo the bottom ball joint for the job really

also try turning the steering to full lock to give you some more length on the track rod
 
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im getting there but its just started raining so ive had to abandon it for now.

I think ive found the problem tho. as i was pulling the hub/disc/brake assembly bit away, part 8 on the eper diagram started coming out of the diff. Now im not 100% certain, but i would have thought that part 8 should have stayed in place, and the driveshaft should have seperated inside the gaitor? am i right? I would have thought part 8 would have been held into part 16 somehow and would only be removed by removing part 16 with it?

am i going along the right lines here?

Cheers for the help so far guys (y)
 
OK just managed to get to it. part 8 just slid out without any force... should there be something in there to stop it moving in and out?
also i removed the flange, behind the flange is a large bearing (presumably part 5) and fitted to the outer side of the flange was a rubber seal (presumably part 4?) but no sign of parts 7, 15 or 2. Ill upload some pics - may help.
 
you have just removed the pre load on the diff bearing's why

by doing this you have likely caused yourself another leak unless you have some 0 gap sealer laying about and know were to put it or a new o ring would be better

the shaft should be held in with a clip round the cut in the end of the shaft part 7 this is likely the cause of your original leak also

it looks to me like

5 bearing
2 o ring sealing pre load flange
15 pre load shim
4 drive shaft seal (probably needs replacing if your shaft has been falling out)
7 clip (the one you need)

so you need 4 2 and 7
and to put that flange back on
and a tool to replace the drive shaft seal
and some gear oil castrol syntrax 75 synthetic will be good
 
You are a star :worship:

Yeh i didnt understand why the shaft just slid out on its own - thats why i removed the flange. It does have a clip in the groove on the shaft (7) but its obviously not doing its job, so probly needs renewing. Part 2 is also present around the groove on the flange, but ill replace that aswell. The flange had been sealed aswell, but should it be? I.E, if i replace the O-ring (2) is that all it should need or should i use sealent aswell?
What part is part 15 (the preload shim?) stuggling to identify it :eek:

i cant thank you enough for your help, id be completely lost by now otherwise lol :eek: if we ever meet, i owe you several beers (y)
 
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The clip is a bitch to get right, on mine I had to spread it a touch more then carefully slide it in. Once it was in I tapped it with a mallet to shock it into place.
 
well aslong as you put it all back the way it came off you shouldn't need to worry about shims they will be correct thickness if you mixed them up your diff will be stuffed in no time

the new O ring will be good enough to seal the flange I just use glue at work to be sure as if I have to remove it for what ever reason we normally don't have the ring in stock or it has not been included in the quote for whatever work is being done

so basickly you need all the seals you have out at the moment and a clip

you have to push the clip on from the end of the shaft not spread it like many people do for unknown reasons

when fitting the shaft into the diff make sure the 2 free ends of the clip are fasing up if they are hanging down they will catch and cause the shaft to become stuck
 
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