Hi All,

Thought I had posted a new thread yesterday but don't see it anywhere..
My last post was 2013. I've bought a Punto Evo 2010 Multijet which needs quite a bit of paint work as lacquer is peeling off in a lot of areas..

Current problem is the heater blower, have changed the plug/socket and resistor but still dead on all blower settings..been looking for a fuse or relay that might have blown but can't find the location..the handbook is no help either..Just read the heater motor has brushes, will check the blower motor today..If anyone has any info on fuse location it would be very much appreciated..

Thanks,
Rustymotor.

Only two posts in 8 years credited to your account

I still 'lose stuff' occasionally ..

That mj sounds like a 'project'

Favourite would be scuttle full of water due to blocked drains .. overflowing into dash and drowning the motor

Personally I would pull the motor out..
Clean and spin..
If all looking good.. feed it 12v direct from the battery.. that will aid your diagnosis.

https://www.fiatforum.com/grande-punto/314051-heater-faq.html

The 2012+ is still very much a grande

I have both.. many of the niggles carry over

Charlie

Hi, thanks for the reply varesecrazy I did notice the old resistor was a bit rusty..will pull the blower motor out shortly..

Careful 2 posts in 8 years folk will think Fiat are mega reliable

Thanks.

My 2013 punto has blown 1 DRL bulb in 60k

Even the battery is 2012

Wornout 4 tyres though ..

I'm thinking this is the Punto which shared a lot with the Corsa D.

Corsa D initially had lots of problems with blower motors, they'd seize. When new, a swift kick under the glovebox would usually shock them into action. (Heater was behind glovebox, which gave a very tine glovebox.) We had Corsa D with BSM, and most had blower motors replaced under waranty. They used to be plentiful on eBay.

Of my 4..
Only the 2007 is giving issues
Early and late 08 are fine

Thanks for replies, quick update..pulled the heater out spins ok, hooked it up to the battery and defo dead, if anyone does this make sure you connect the + - correctly, thought I might have connected it wrong way around, got some nice sparks after switching the + - Have a new unit on order should come tomorrow, will check the drains and replace the cabin air filter. The rover 75's suffered from blocked drains and water usually took the ECU out.

portland_bill yes corsa d and adam also use same blower motor, I'm also an ADI was planning to fit duals in this car, which would make it difficult to access the blower etc..

Anyway, the good news, due to a nice warm Sunday managed to do all the paint repairs took 7 hours with son helping to mask it up..car looks nice now.

I bought the car and drove it 150 miles home it did run really well and very economical, it does clatter on first start but warms up and runs well.

rustymotor said:

Thanks for replies, quick update..pulled the heater out spins ok, hooked it up to the battery and defo dead, if anyone does this make sure you connect the + - correctly, thought I might have connected it wrong way around, got some nice sparks after switching the + - Have a new unit on order should come tomorrow, will check the drains and replace the cabin air filter. The rover 75's suffered from blocked drains and water usually took the ECU out.

portland_bill yes corsa d and adam also use same blower motor, I'm also an ADI was planning to fit duals in this car, which would make it difficult to access the blower etc..

Anyway, the good news, due to a nice warm Sunday managed to do all the paint repairs took 7 hours with son helping to mask it up..car looks nice now.

I bought the car and drove it 150 miles home it did run really well and very economical, it does clatter on first start but warms up and runs well.

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Duals would make it a good 'spare' car if not your main teaching car. Many independents have family members running their old cars to provide backup when others insist on hitting the learner car. Saw a statistic a long time ago that 85-90% of collisions involving learner cars were the other driver's fault.
The 'L' plates should frighten people.

When duals were fitted to the Corsas, they'd cut out a piece of the underfelt, and use the mountings for a LHD car, so no drilling. Underfelt piece was kept with the car to be replaced when duals removed. The fitter did the same with my Fabia.

Hi portland_bill,

Thanks for the reply..I was teaching all automatic lessons however, decided to do manual intensive instead, not knowing how it will go bought the Punto before investing in a more expensive car. This car was in a mess when we got it home, dirty inside loads of lacquer peel, heater motor blown etc, on the plus side it's got full service history, new tyres and drives OK for it's years..you made a good point with the 3 studs in the passenger well which, I promptly cut off like a fool..have cut away the foam and now have the duals working well and, the car is growing on me day by day though it has been a weeks work to bring it around..nice little project for lock down.

Got the heater blower Tuesday and fitted same day with new resister also new cabin air filter, all working well varesacrazy was spot on thanks. Just would add that the wire colours on the resister didn't match up, the speeds were all over at first, it's best to use a chocolate block to connect the resister this allows you to plug the wires in and test, swap if needed..

Thanks for the help and take care..

PS: L plates should be at least 3 ft square

rustymotor said:

Hi portland_bill,

Thanks for the reply..I was teaching all automatic lessons however, decided to do manual intensive instead,

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I've always resisted doing intensives, closest I've come to that was one 2-hr lesson a day, every day for one lad. There are a lot of people want intensives though, wishing to rush into something that is a skill for life. Very few people will become good drivers from it, as taking time to do lessons over a longer period will allow the learning to sink in.

There's a guy in Swindon makes a very good living from intensives. As many can't hack it for a fortnight of full days, they drop out to revert to weekly lessons. Of course, they pay full upfront, and there are no refunds, so he provisionally double-books the second week, and so gets paid twice. I think intensives would do my head in, let alone the poor learners. So good luck with that. All systems go from Monday, hopefully you have gallons of disinfectant and hand sanitizer, plus boxes of masks and gloves.

I don't have any learners now, and am resisting new ones, preferring to concentrate on fleet work, mostly supermarket vans this last year.

Hi, intensive is not for everyone it's a fact and those who came to me after having one appeared to be poor drivers. A lot depends on the individual, some can do 2 or 3 hours a day some can't. One thing for sure I won't put anyone in for a test unless I'm sure they are ready.

Would never keep anyone's money for lessons if they don't want them or want to change the course no problem. Talking about disinfectant etc that was my reason for intensive..keep the customer contact down I guess fleet work is good..

Back to the Evo, has a knock on the drivers side front, I'm sure it's a drop link so have a couple coming..

rustymotor said:

I guess fleet work is good..

Back to the Evo, has a knock on the drivers side front, I'm sure it's a drop link so have a couple coming..

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Fleet work is great. Travel there, use their vehicle, (although occasionally they may prefer to use mine), so low fuel costs.
Throughout last year was mostly supermarket drivers, as they were considered key workers. Great fun delivering the shopping, been out this morning, although starting there at 6:30 means tired now. Pay is less for the hours compared to learners, but easier, and lower costs.

Knock on front most likely drop links.

Hi, PB,
That sounds like an easier life than learners..
I had my pc crash and lost info for the forum, also forgot which email I joined with any way..now sorted..

The Evo, changed the drop link and it made no difference, managed to buy an almost new strut, spring and bearing complete for £70 so swapped it over and all noise gone..

My learner drivers love this car, the stop start feature is not working as it should but, when they stall the car just pressing the clutch re-starts it..Happy Days. Had a range rover try to cut me up on a roundabout floored the evo and left the guy behind, very nippy.

PS: Meant to mention to varesecrazy as suggested I did check the drains both clean as a whistle

rustymotor said:

Hi, PB,
That sounds like an easier life than learners..

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Mostly, but occasionally I get a complete incompetent, being given a large van to play with. Had one this week, been driving only a year, frightened of the van. Hard work.

rustymotor said:

The Evo, changed the drop link and it made no difference, managed to buy an almost new strut, spring and bearing complete for £70 so swapped it over and all noise gone..

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Hopefully strut came from same spec car. Petrol/diesel have different springs and dampers. Sometimes aircon has a stronger spring.

Park it on level ground, see if it sits right. Hopefully all good, otherwise might need to swap the spring.

Hi, been very buys these days...car sits well PB so think it's ok.
It is running well to be honest in daily use folk like driving it especially the stall and dip clutch feature

Can I ask is there any criteria for changing the timing chain, does rattle a bit?

Cheers,

rustymotor said:

Hi,

Can I ask is there any criteria for changing the timing chain, does rattle a bit?

Cheers,

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Hi again

Chains normally between 80k and 150k..

Good oil helps

Its a £400 to change in a garage..as its quite involved

rustymotor said:

Hi, been very buys these days...car sits well PB so think it's ok.
It is running well to be honest in daily use folk like driving it especially the stall and dip clutch feature

Can I ask is there any criteria for changing the timing chain, does rattle a bit?

Cheers,

Click to expand...

The life of the chain is variable, with some early failures, some lasting well over 100k. Failure is destructive and expensive, with most opting for a replacement engine. If it is rattling, you need to listen carefully, or get an expert to do so. Replacement now is a better option than a failure.

Hi, thanks for the replies..

I always use good oil and change it every 6K regardless, I'm on 102K miles now, there is a bit of a wine on the chain side well, I think it's that side sounds like a bearing. maybe the alternator..
Thanks again appreciate the advice.