Styling LED DRL's: Success!

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Styling LED DRL's: Success!

All60Horses

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Hi all,

I made a post back in June this year asking yet another question about LED DRL's on my Evo. I finally sourced some bulbs I liked, but they're not cheap. I think I paid around £20 for em. (Osram 7905-CW02)

I am currently using a 50 watt resistor on each side in parallel. I think this may be too much because the heat they are chucking out is ridiculous. But, they're what I had laying around sooo...

Another thing I think you guys are gonna lay into me for is the fact I used scotch locks to attach the resistors. Yes, I know they're bad. But I'm lazy. :p I also haven't got around to properly insulating around the scotch locks themselves. I'll get to that at some point.

I thought I'd let you all know how I located the wire if any of you are interested. I couldn't find a wiring diagram so I took the plug out myself and used a multi-meter. With the ignition and DRL's on, there was a small amount of power going through the green+yellow wire. When the ignition was turned on initially, the voltage 12v and then cut off to around 0.1-0.3v. I'm assuming because the CANbus system saw there was nothing there. I then made a hole on the side and used a self-tapper to 1) hold the resistor 2) earth it. I mounted it on a metal area clear of any plastic because 1) earth 2)to dissipate some of the heat.

I'll post some pics below

PLEASE NOTE:
This was more of an experiment to see what works and to help me get better at electrics. I would appreciate constructive criticism; not straight negatives.

Welp... was about to add some pics of the wiring situation but apparently I've deleted em. Will have to get some at a later stage. :shrug:
 

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I think the Car looks smart in white with the chrome grill, but I'm not sure I see a major difference/advantage to the LED bulbs.

Also be careful of running resistors that are getting that hot, last thing you want is something melting or catching fire. Scotchlocks are alright for someone who works in halfords but if you're running burning hot resistors then you need to make sure their power supply is not going to increase the resistance any further, I would solder the joints and make sure everything is well wrapped in good quality tessa tape
 
It's cliche but the pictures don't do it justice. The white balance on my phone camera is trying to warm it, where as IRL they are cool white.

Also yeh, I get what you mean with the scotch locks. I will insulate them better when I get a chance. I'm cleaning mine today so might take 10 mins to have a look.
 
It's cliche but the pictures don't do it justice. The white balance on my phone camera is trying to warm it, where as IRL they are cool white.

Also yeh, I get what you mean with the scotch locks. I will insulate them better when I get a chance. I'm cleaning mine today so might take 10 mins to have a look.
It's not just about insulating them it's the fact you have a tiny contact area meaning all the current is passing through the tiny contact area heating that area up a lot more
 
It's not just about insulating them it's the fact you have a tiny contact area meaning all the current is passing through the tiny contact area heating that area up a lot more

:yeahthat:

This is the problem with scotchlocks they quite often cut the strands of wire reducing the current carrying capacity of the wire and I’ve seen a few fire caused by them.
 
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Just to note
They are leds and drawing hardly any current , its not rocket science and its not as if they are 200watt KC daylighters
LUIGI

Its not the LED's which are the problem its the 50Watt resistors in place of something thats normally less than half that.

The wires too the lights are not designed for this.
 
<SNIP>

I am currently using a 50 watt resistor on each side in parallel. I think this may be too much because the heat they are chucking out is ridiculous. But, they're what I had laying around sooo...
<SNIP>

What is the resistance of these "50W" resistors?

You would need about 4 ohms 50W (14V squared divided by 50W) and 3.5A. This unreasonable if correct and is overloading the circuit.

Do the DRLs dim or go off with the main lights on?

Robert G8RPI.
 
mine half dim, but i used a intelligent type drl controller
features auto on on engine start up
auto off on engine stop with 20 sec off delay
they strobe when using the horn
there is an option for each drl to dim when indicators are used, but as my drls are not near my indicators i did not use this feature
luigi
 
mine half dim, but i used a intelligent type drl controller
features auto on on engine start up
auto off on engine stop with 20 sec off delay
they strobe when using the horn
there is an option for each drl to dim when indicators are used, but as my drls are not near my indicators i did not use this feature
luigi
Yours are done properly, not just hacked into the already present DRL wiring.

My brother frequently fits DRLs to vans (he converts campervans) and he does it exactly the same way you have with an intelligent DRL controller.
 
Now what...……..Everything is We post up you Bring down
Where in your rules does it say it can't flash with horn.....It's no different to flashing your headlights!
Half dims with lights on which is correct
Delay on after engine stop that's ok isn't it?
My van is 09 plate so not tested on MOT
LUIGI
 
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