Good news, pretty strait forward when you get down to it. The rear adjusters probably need attention, clean/lube & adjusted, press the brake pedal several times until you feel a difference. What state are the brake cables? Are the in good condition?
General Brake Drum and Shoes need replacing?
- Thread starter rundle123
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General Brake Drum and Shoes need replacing?
Oh right okay will give that a go today thank you, the brake cables seemed like they were in a good condition from what I could see I have drove it around since then and thought that would have done it possibly or do I need to be stationary?
Another update just driving around and I seem to hearing a squeak from the brakes, sometimes I don’t hear it then sometimes I do sounds like something is rubbing is it just the brakes bedding in or is something not quite right?
Touch the hub bolts carefully..all 4 wheels..
Rubbing brakes will generate heat
Very hot lol
Went to garage to just get it checked, he thinks it’s binding, any reason why this could be? One side is okay and other side was turning the wheel it was moving but not very free as he think it should, he suggested stripping down and replacing shoes again with proper shoe kit [emoji20]
Seems a bit much to me as the shoes are new maybe master cylinder is faulty?
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Oh..
Worth stripping down again.
Main items;
The pivot arm.. not returning..
Handbrake cable itself not returning
The selfadjuster being wound up too tight.
Did you do ANY Work with the hydraulics?
If not do not be distracted..
Your basic shoe movement will be the root cause.
Worth stripping down again.
Main items;
The pivot arm.. not returning..
Handbrake cable itself not returning
The selfadjuster being wound up too tight.
Did you do ANY Work with the hydraulics?
If not do not be distracted..
Your basic shoe movement will be the root cause.
Yeah think it will have to be stripped for sure, the guy at the garage couldn’t see any visible problems but I’m guessing because I fitted them it would be difficult for him to tell what was happening
I hadn’t touched any hydraulics that I know of just fitted shoes and drums
I don’t really know what more I can do regarding getting it sorted as I don’t want to fork £100 on him to fit it all again and the problem is still there
SEARCH.. dragging brakes .. grande is the same
SEARCH.. dragging brakes .. grande is the same
Seen a couple folk with same issues! Guess I’ll just have to look and check everything again
Do you think the heat will warp the drum if I drive it too much?
No.. should be ok
But only fine for a short period
If its really tight to get off.. use the jacking screw on the face of the drum
But only fine for a short period
If its really tight to get off.. use the jacking screw on the face of the drum
No.. should be ok
But only fine for a short period
If its really tight to get off.. use the jacking screw on the face of the drum
Again, can’t thank you enough for ur advice and info!
I’ve stripped the one side that was rubbing and cannot for the life of me figure out what it is, I cleaned it, properly refitted and turnt the wheel whilst on the jacks it’s moving but not very freely, I’m absolutely stumped on what to do
I had a mate who pushed the brake pedal for me(not all the way) only the front piston was moving is that meant to? The back one does move but only slowly and a bit jolty
Feeling like it could be something a bit more serious maybe cables? But even then I had checked them and they seemed OK
Sounds like the wheel cylinder is sticking..
Hence the dragging.
You can carefully remove drum and operate the brakes..
Handbrake on .off
Then foot brake on.off
Hence the dragging.
You can carefully remove drum and operate the brakes..
Handbrake on .off
Then foot brake on.off
Yeah I thought it didn’t seem right, the leading brake piston doesn’t move out but not sure if that would help would it?
Here’s a pic of the setup
Attachments
So.. which system induces drag?
Handbrake is simplest.. so you can modulate forces.. for real.time comparisons.
1 thought.. are they definitely correct shoes.. 2 width options.. possibly diameter changes too.?
A sticky cylinder .. MIGHT . Stay out too long..
Con entionally the springs should overpower its resistance easily.. you should be able to see this
rundle1234
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So.. which system induces drag?
Handbrake is simplest.. so you can modulate forces.. for real.time comparisons.
1 thought.. are they definitely correct shoes.. 2 width options.. possibly diameter changes too.?
A sticky cylinder .. MIGHT . Stay out too long..
Con entionally the springs should overpower its resistance easily.. you should be able to see this
Well I stripped it all down, cleaned everything again I adjusted the self adjuster right in this time so there was no thread showing, put it all back together as before. There was a little dragging on the wheel so I initially thought I hadn’t sorted it.
I hadn’t driven it that day but the next morning I didn’t hear any screeching or squealing from the wheels, they do get hot after a drive but not as hot as before, are the drums supposed to get hot? The handbrake is still high but I don’t want to adjust anything just in case I mess anything up and it goes back to how it was before. I’m sure everything I fitted new was the same even springs etc as compared them to the original pieces
Brakes : friction
So SOME heat is to be expected.
Sounds like youve made progress.. and the self.adjusters 'might' reduce handbrake travel in time...through use
Keep us informed
Charlie
So SOME heat is to be expected.
Sounds like youve made progress.. and the self.adjusters 'might' reduce handbrake travel in time...through use
Keep us informed
Charlie
Brakes : friction
So SOME heat is to be expected.
Sounds like youve made progress.. and the self.adjusters 'might' reduce handbrake travel in time...through use
Keep us informed
Charlie
Sorry for late response keep having to make an account because having issues with logging in!?
I hope I’m getting somewhere with it, I’ve noticed when I pull up the ashtray and the cables are being pulled at different lengths?
The passenger side is the one I was initially having trouble with but is now ok but the cable pulls up really high compared to the other side? Could this be down to what I done Friday? The car does hold on about 10-12 clicks when I’m on a hill which high lol
Maybe.
Which drum is dragging now?
Which drum is dragging now?
puntodad19
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Sticking/stiff/siezed wheel cylinder piston means that piston will not "retract" ( pushed back into cylinder via shoe return springs ) so that shoe still "brake on".
Sticking/stiff/seized hand brake cable means that system will not allow shoes to return via springs to "off" state.
New shoes in worn drum, can cause "squeeks" sometimes as new shoes have a sharp edges that rub on a worn drum edges. So chamfer the friction lining of the shoes edges slightly.
Worn drums can be a real problem to remove sometime due to the wear, with the shoes having a central "valley", this part of the drum does not wear so stopping the drum from coming off. ALWAYS unadjust the shoes and handbrake cable BEFORE trying to remove the drums.
Also the outer edge of the drum can corroded leaving a raised corrosion edge making the drum difficult to remove sometimes.
Also shoes sit on back plate " flat raised area" which should be lubed with proper grease, using the "BARE MINIMUM" of grease., else they can squeek when the brakes are applied on, via pedal and/or handbrake.
If it moves it needs lubing.
Stiff wheel cylinder piston means new wheel cylinder with all its removing/fitting problems.
Penetrent penitrant penetrant over a few days on the union before trying to undo. Union may well be siezed/corroded into cylinder and pipe may well be seized/corroded into union, so be warned.
If halfrauds did do a BFC then the bleed nipple will have been undone.
looking at the picture the back plate could do with a de dust ( dust can also cause squeeks ) and a paint whilst you are there.
Personally i would fit the u shaped spring clips the right way up, but they are "locked" in place via the pins head and clip recess.
On finishing fitting and drum on etc., the brake shoes should be "centralised" via foot brake and adjusted, then re centralised and re adjusted if neccessary before handbrake cable is adjusted. After that, the self adjusting mechanism should cope as long as it it free and lubed.
Hope this helps and ALWAYS have a mask on.
I always used to remark that " if the brake dust does not kill you the brake cleaner will".
Sticking/stiff/seized hand brake cable means that system will not allow shoes to return via springs to "off" state.
New shoes in worn drum, can cause "squeeks" sometimes as new shoes have a sharp edges that rub on a worn drum edges. So chamfer the friction lining of the shoes edges slightly.
Worn drums can be a real problem to remove sometime due to the wear, with the shoes having a central "valley", this part of the drum does not wear so stopping the drum from coming off. ALWAYS unadjust the shoes and handbrake cable BEFORE trying to remove the drums.
Also the outer edge of the drum can corroded leaving a raised corrosion edge making the drum difficult to remove sometimes.
Also shoes sit on back plate " flat raised area" which should be lubed with proper grease, using the "BARE MINIMUM" of grease., else they can squeek when the brakes are applied on, via pedal and/or handbrake.
If it moves it needs lubing.
Stiff wheel cylinder piston means new wheel cylinder with all its removing/fitting problems.
Penetrent penitrant penetrant over a few days on the union before trying to undo. Union may well be siezed/corroded into cylinder and pipe may well be seized/corroded into union, so be warned.
If halfrauds did do a BFC then the bleed nipple will have been undone.
looking at the picture the back plate could do with a de dust ( dust can also cause squeeks ) and a paint whilst you are there.
Personally i would fit the u shaped spring clips the right way up, but they are "locked" in place via the pins head and clip recess.
On finishing fitting and drum on etc., the brake shoes should be "centralised" via foot brake and adjusted, then re centralised and re adjusted if neccessary before handbrake cable is adjusted. After that, the self adjusting mechanism should cope as long as it it free and lubed.
Hope this helps and ALWAYS have a mask on.
I always used to remark that " if the brake dust does not kill you the brake cleaner will".
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