Styling Headlights convert to LEDs

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Styling Headlights convert to LEDs

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Currently got my 501 sidelights as leds, although they are canbus I still needed to purchase resistors to stop the warning lights.

I currently have MTEC for my DRLs and then some standard H4s but with the "xenon look". Both produce a nice white light, but the leds seem to produce a bluer light.. when all turned on it looks kinda cool... but when the lights are off you can see the blue tint in the headlight from the tinted bulbs which looks weird.

has anyone ever converted their headlights and drls to LEDs? If they are the same as my sidelights then canbus ready leds will still need resistors.. but im puzzled how that would work for the DRLs (twist and lock mechanism)..

any ideas? :)
 
usually Mkala loves these electric posts :p

Right ;)

The problem with canbus LED that they are made to take a bit more current to avoid lamp failure detection to trigger (this the mechanism they call "canbus" ) - but as I can read in the forums the amount of current is not sufficient, and the warning light is ON on the dashboard...

You have only one realistic solution to avoid this : draw more current, it's what resistors does.
For DRL you have to pickup on the headlight wire loom I think, but be careful to not damage anything...
 
Right ;)

The problem with canbus LED that they are made to take a bit more current to avoid lamp failure detection to trigger (this the mechanism they call "canbus" ) - but as I can read in the forums the amount of current is not sufficient, and the warning light is ON on the dashboard...

You have only one realistic solution to avoid this : draw more current, it's what resistors does.
For DRL you have to pickup on the headlight wire loom I think, but be careful to not damage anything...

theres the response ive been waiting for! haha.. right ok.. DRLs seem like a bit of effort. Whats your opinion on converting the headlights to LEDs?
 
You have to find a place to add resistors, but it can be a source of failure, doing splice on the loom.

Perhaps buying headlight with LED DRL ? But perhaps the look is not what you search ?
 
From what I have experienced in the past with my previous Grande, the headlights are not connected through the can bus.

I had a set of HID bulbs for a time using only one headlight socket for them to be switched on and off and there was never a can bus error.

I currently have a H4 LED kit I am trying to figure out how to fit in the car. The problem is, despite having a very small LED driver, with the additional head sink on the back of the bulb, there is simply not enough room for the whole kit to fit under the rubber boot.

I am trying to figure out how to add an extension to the socket so I can leave the driver outside the unit and perhaps stick it to the back of a rubber boot with a couple of holes for wiring.

I have some 35W LED fogs in the car already and they are bright. You get the same problem as with HID, too much waste light coming out of the reflector so it is dazzling, perhaps not as bad as HID bulbs but still noticeable. However, using them as the cornering lights then there is a significant improvement on light compared to the previous Nightbreakers I used.
 
I recently fitted some led headlights to my punto evo sporting. Gives much better light and no warning lights have come on . purchased them from horizon leds. Had to cut holes in the rubber headlight cap for driver and heat braid.gonna eventually add an extension to hold it all in. Definitely worth while upgrade.
 
Old thread but things are changing fast with LEDs.

The the emitter is much smaller so an H7 (single) or H4 (twin) element will behave more like a halogen bulb. Avoid cheap LED bulbs and certainly avoid the corn cob type. The latter especially will spoil the beam focus and are not especially good for light output.

Light colour is not the same as light volume.

Also don't be too taken in by the quoted lumens. A standard 50 watt halogen makes about 1000 lumens but its full spectrum and about 4500K. Most of the light is useful to the human eye. A 3000 lumen LED makes 3x the light but at 6000K, a lot is at high temperature (blue) where the human eyes can't use it so well. 9000 lumen should be more than up to the job but then we risk dazzling other road users purely because they are so bright.

The back end of these powerful bulbs has a driver unit and a heat sink. Some have wire braid tails others have a cooling fan. The actual light emitter does not get hot.
 
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