Technical Central locking wiring info

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Technical Central locking wiring info

llol_slim

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Ive bought a universal central locking kit from ebay as my central locking keyfob is broken and have been quoted loads from fiat to make a new remote key.
So this kit ... I'll scan the wiring diagram later, but im just trying to determine, there are four different diagrams depending on the setup ..

1 : "for cars equipped with central lock and lock motor on drivers side door"

2 : "for cars equipped with central lock but no motor on drivers side. Add a master motor and rod"

3 : "For cars equipped with cdentral lock and a control switch on the drivers side"

4 : "For cars equipped for air compressor controlled central door locks. EG Audi, VW mercedes"

Each option has its own diagram. I think its option 1? ..
The diagrams are pretty weired 'll scan them in a bit if someone could help me decipher that would be great..

Is that ok ?

Thanks
Laurie
 
Helz said:
I'd go with number one as well. This thread in security might help when it comes to wiring as it's not in Haynes :)
thanks again helz :)
Im going to have to get a haynes i havnt got one yet..

click for bigger picture, its a biggun!(56kers beware:))

So i am going with number one, but now i have to decipher what the difference between "motor line" and "down, up, common" wires.
I think doing this without a haynes manual or much knowledge is going to end in a non working central locking?!
has anyone ever tried this kind of thing before?!
Thanks AGAIN
Laurie
 
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Well mine is still sitting half fitted, the only thing (Tom and) I ever did was managed to turn the airbag light on :eek: The up and down wires are in the file in the link. Common line I would GUESS would be a live power line, but if someone could clarify that would be most helpful. Where are you based Laurie? Am thinking a day of combined messing might work it out :D
 
Helz said:
Well mine is still sitting half fitted, the only thing (Tom and) I ever did was managed to turn the airbag light on :eek: The up and down wires are in the file in the link. Common line I would GUESS would be a live power line, but if someone could clarify that would be most helpful. Where are you based Laurie? Am thinking a day of combined messing might work it out :D
right-o uselful info thanks :)

Im based in devon, lil town called Honiton (im on the active map thing, but cant remember/find the link!)
Sounds great idea though
Just noticed your in carlisle :(
Thanks
Laurie

EDIT :
Helz said:
Well mine is still sitting half fitted, the only thing (Tom and) I ever did was managed to turn the airbag light on :eek:
do you have the same sort of thing? Universal central locking kit?
Laurie
 
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EDIT : Sorry for double post

according to the file in the link, if i read it right, assuming CDL stands for Central door locking, then the lock motor is in the o/s door harness.
Am i right in thinking o/s means passenger side? Wouldnt make a difference would it? As there isnt a wiring diagram for this setup. I cant imagine it would make a difference :confused:
laurie
 
T14086 said:
Negative switched central locking,

lock-white
unlock-light blue
both these wires located at wiring harness going into drivers door,so you can pick them up inside of 'A' pillar.
cool, head for the a pillar then. Thank you.
T14086, did you look at the scan of the wiring instructions? I can't work out what the up, down and common lines are (in the diagram)
thanks
laurie
 
cant read your diagram properly,but normally you connect the unlock &lock wires to the colours I have already mentioned plus you would also have to have a earth to switch the lock/unlock.From what I can read(see)of your diagram that is the yellow & yellow/black.
 
T14086 said:
cant read your diagram properly,but normally you connect the unlock &lock wires to the colours I have already mentioned plus you would also have to have a earth to switch the lock/unlock.From what I can read(see)of your diagram that is the yellow & yellow/black.
sorry, i just looked at the diagram, its all distorted, if you click on it, it zooms in and then its easier to read but ive cropped and resized it, hopefully this will be easier to read.
click for picture
so do you think that the wires "up" and "down" mean locked and unlocked? common meaning neutral? :bang: obvious! that hadnt occured to me until now .. D'oh..:rolleyes:
I really appreciate your help.
Laurie
 
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llol_slim said:
sorry, i just looked at the diagram, its all distorted, if you click on it, it zooms in and then its easier to read but ive cropped and resized it, hopefully this will be easier to read.
click for picture
so do you think that the wires "up" and "down" mean locked and unlocked? common meaning neutral? :bang: obvious! that hadnt occured to me until now .. D'oh..:rolleyes:
I really appreciate your help.
Laurie

Try it both ways (keep keys in pocket!) to be certain before I would solder the wires from the alarm to the cars locking wires.Down probably means lock.Common would be any suitable earth point,thats the way these units normally work or on to a live if positive switched etc.
 
T14086 said:
Try it both ways (keep keys in pocket!) to be certain before I would solder the wires from the alarm to the cars locking wires.Down probably means lock.Common would be any suitable earth point,thats the way these units normally work or on to a live if positive switched etc.

That could explain why mine didn't work, we went for a live instead of earth. Thanks (y)
 
ok cool thanks all, getting excited now.
This has gone from a "you'll be lucky" to "do-able"
Im planning on butchering a key to fit the flick-blade tonight.
I cant do the wiring as its raining and I dont have a garage :( Gives me a chance to buy a haynes manual anyway. (thats the silver lining to the bl**dy great grey cloud)
Thanks all :)
Laurie
 
i failed to do it in the past. to get the flick-blade key to work you will need to swap the metal key blank and also plant the glass vial inside the flick-blake key so the immobiliser can work. the flick-blake keys are usually very thin so i doubt you'l be able to fit your key blank on it but good luck. the glass vial can be cellotaped near the igniton out of view if you prefer, this will make the immobiliser constantly switch off so any key will work, its sometimes easier than getting the glass vial into the new key, but not as safe because stealing the car will be much easier without the immobiliser working.
 
jug said:
i failed to do it in the past. to get the flick-blade key to work you will need to swap the metal key blank and also plant the glass vial inside the flick-blake key so the immobiliser can work. the flick-blake keys are usually very thin so i doubt you'l be able to fit your key blank on it but good luck. the glass vial can be cellotaped near the igniton out of view if you prefer, this will make the immobiliser constantly switch off so any key will work, its sometimes easier than getting the glass vial into the new key, but not as safe because stealing the car will be much easier without the immobiliser working.
Ive had a look at the flick-blade that i have, and with a little bit of hacksawing it'll fit. they are basically the same width, only a little bit narrower where it joins the the fob. Do-able :) .. Im good at bodging :D

Glass vial? .. Theres a little black chip (about 5mm x 3mm ish) inside my blue key. Is that what you mean? Again I can bodge it inside the flick-blade fob :)
I havnt seen anything that resembles a glass vial though :confused:
Laurie
 
the fiat chips are usually glass vials, i guess you have an aftermarket key. dont worry it makes no difference, i've just never seen a fiat chip that wasnt glass.
 
Hello again
I've been waiting for the right weather at the weekend (and a surf free sunday) and tomorrow is the big day : I plan on installing the remote central locking kit.
I'm 99% confident i can do it.
However, my concern is do i need to disconnect the battery to be safe? If so whats the safest way of doing it and will Ihave any key code problems when i re-connect it?
Thanks in advance
(wish me all the luck in the world!!)
Laurie
 
I never disconnect the battery (I should really:eek: ) just stay away from any yellow airbag wiring.
Dont need any luck mate...were here to help if your stuck(y)
Can give you more wiring info if you want it?
 
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