Technical MOT checks/usual problems?

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Technical MOT checks/usual problems?

VUK

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Hi!

Just bought my self 3 door H reg uno 45

The problem is that I have to travel 150m to get it and since it does not have an MOT(technical) get it tested there and then.

The prevoous owner told me that N/S ball joint is gone so got new wishbone, will bring 4 tyres too

What do they fail on?

Thanks
 
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VUK said:
Hi!

Just bought my self 3 door H reg uno 45

The problem is that I have to travel 150m to get it and since it does not have an MOT(technical) get it tested there and then.

The prevoous owner told me that N/S ball joint is gone so got new wishbone, will bring 4 tyres too

What do they fail on?

Thanks

I take it this is an ebay jobbie?

Blimey could fail on any number of things. Corrosion/Rust to the suspension turrets or sills. Brake / handbrake efficiency. Emmissions (did H reg cars come with a Cat?). CV Boots. Suspension Struts, Headlight adjustment, faulty bulbs, tyre wear, seat fixings, seats belts...goodness knows.

I have wondered what the best way of dealing with this sort of thing without a transporter,trailer or tow car. Book the car into a local MOT garage (local to you) drive the car 150miles to that garage, get MOT. Is this legal? would seem to push the boundaries. You'll also need insurance to drive the car anywhere including the MOT station.

I think the rules on free retest have also changed such that if welding or other such repair is required you can't do it yourself without having to pay for a retest.....
 
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Hi VUK, welcome to the forum! :)

Yeah, those balljoints are a common failure. I've just bought two new ones, even though I found out today that both mine were actually OK.

A simple-to-rectify fault is the rear lights. Not usually a blown bulb, often a case of unplugging the plug and cleaning it, and tweaking all the bulb holders. The most often-blown bulbs are the 5W jobbies (number plate, side repeaters (remove from inside the wing to avoid snapping the light off) and front parking lights).

Brakes, I find, are a common problem - specifically the balance of the back brakes and the handbrake.

Rust - of course - particularly under the windscreen, at the edges of the floor, and in the door frame near the hinges. Under the front wing tops, about a third of the way forward from the windscreen, there is a rust trap near the suspension turret. Inside the back panel, hidden by the rear bumper (though this is hardly likely to be an MOT fail point).

As these cars get older, it's beginning to be more a case of where they *don't* rust than where they do. When I think about it, I have seen (on separate Unos) rust pretty much everywhere, except the bulkhead. It is also not a case of an Uno that has rust in one place being likely to have rust elsewhere. I've seen cases where one door was practically missing the bottom, the other three doors were perfect. This makes it different to 1970's cars!

On a long trip (to return home) you shouldn't take chances with tyres. Check them very carefully and if applicable try to leave enough time to get the tyres replaced before you drive home. In my experience, Unos for sale typically sit around for ages beforehand, the tyres steadily perishing or developing carbuncles.

The worst feature of the Uno that I bought last year was the cut springs in the front suspension - one had already slipped off so I fastened them on with cable ties - the ultra-low suspension had broken the tripode driveshaft joint circlips and all the needle rollers had been lost in the transmission, giving an awful wobbling/vibration. Also the gearbox had a cracked mounting from accident damage.

Driving it home (about 130km) was hair-raising - when moving off there would be a loud BANG and a feeling of the front end jumping off the road (I later realised this was the driveshaft jumping out of, and back into, the diff.) This was after bypassing a completely split junction at the heater hose that caused most of the coolant to pour out. It's just amazing how bad cars can get with total neglect and thoughtless abuse.

Basically, I guess I am suggesting to take a reasonable assortment of tools (a 12mm deep socket served as a hose joiner!), cable ties and duct tape, and a mobile phone... but you will get it home somehow. Good luck with the MOT!

-Alex
 
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thepottleflump said:
LHD! Are you taking it on one of these trips where you sell the car when you get there?


No m8, I am working as fast food delivery driver for now so gonna use that and later export it abroad

Its cheap anyway, can't go wrong
 
Got the car!!

What a box on wheels LOL!!!

Few rust spots, engine is good, needs clutch, got two new wishbones and 4 wheels since it had 135 width tyres!!! crazy.... now 155/70/13 whcih is ok.

need new front brakes, going to fit the rev counter.

Anyone know if I can swap the gearbox for 5 speed as this 4 speed is just useless.


Thanks
 
Good work!

Well, you can put in a 5-speed from another Uno 45 (999cc) or 60 (1108cc). But unless there's something wrong with your gearbox (not unheard of, even at those low kms) I don't think it would be worth it. You would have to drive the car with the donor gearbox first, as it's common to have synchro problems and/or input bearing noise, even after just 100,000km (62,000miles).

Check the quoted fuel economy for the 5-speed vs. the 4-speed - only 2mpg more for the 'Urban Cycle', 8mpg LESS at a constant 90km/h, 3mpg more at a constant 120km/h. This is assuming that your Series II Uno 45 has the 999cc engine - apparently the Series II also came with the old 903cc engine, but only the 4-speed.

So yes, according to the handbook you'll get 61.5mpg at a constant 90km/h with the 4-speed, against only 53mpg with the 5-speed.

Ratios 1-4 are the same for both gearboxes. Top speed in fourth gear is 145km/h (90mph), top speed in fifth (if you had it) would be 140km/h (87mph). And I bet in 5th that the skins of most rice puddings would be perfectly safe.

Still want to make the swap? :)

-Alex
 
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i'll think about it


is my engine 999 or 903? in the papers it says 999 but since its an inport i would not trust that
 
then mine is 999cc


it failed MOT on uneven brakes (front) 38%

right brake is not contant too.

got new pads, changed left caliper, now waiting for discs.

all it needed is a longer drive to get the rust of the discs but can't drive with no mot.

annoying
 
yeah, brakes are a problem if car has sat unused

balance issues are usually just the discs, never had a caliper problem

one nasty fix I figured out once - jack up one front wheel, remove. Take off caliper, push piston back in (G-clamp). Wrap 120-grit dry-type sandpaper around the pad, refit caliper. Start engine, and in second gear lightly press the brake pedal a few dozen times until disc is nicely cleaned-up

most people would say that their time to do the above was worth more than the 9-pounds cost per new disc (not so easy to get new discs here)

then replace pads if worn/contaminated. grease sliders carefully

-Alex
 
Yea ordered new discs and when i got them they are too big!!!

Think they are off a diesel model, so went and got matching calipers and now its all good.

I will have to change that 4 speed box because on the motorway its useless!!!


The car didn't have radio or cig lighter lol, so had to fit those. Remote central locking is to go on next.
 
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