Panda Project: Panda 169 1.3 Multijet 2004

I'll start with the list I created after spending one week in its company.

• EGR fault - persistent P0401 and EML
• Very lumpy idle and white smoke occurring a minute or so after start up (suspected bad glow plug or injector)
• Knock from below the driver's footrest when steering left
• Blower only working on position 4
• Passenger sun visor broken (but not missing as described in the advert)

So, this is second contact. Having a good old poke around. I'd done a bit of homework and was satisfied that the main horror stories weren't present here before I handed over my cash (i.e rotton back axle/spring cups, water ingress into the air filter, etc). It needed a new battery right off the bat as the PAS gave up on me half a mile from home on the journey back. Turns out the electic steering draws a fair current!

I scraped a ton of mud and sand out of the weird little shelf on the chassis rail up behind the front struts. This is where I discovered the only rust I could find





Things moved on pretty quickly after this as, after popping the MAP sensor out for a peek inside the intake manifold, I found it was completely blocked with black sh**e. As with many of my diesels before this one, it needed a decoke. Those of you that have tried to pull the manifold off a 1.3 Multijet stuffed into a Panda will know, there isn't much room to work. Especially on yer back with the car less than two feet off the deck :bang: And a lot of other stuff needs to come off or out first. It seemed a sensible idea at the time because I intended to check the condition of the EGR while I was at it. Discovering that it's liquid cooled and already blanked off was fun. Also decided to pull the injectors out as my first attempt at curing the rough idle... I must be mental.

I thinned down some chain saw cutting bar oil and lathered it into that dirt trap behind the front suspension. It soaks into any cracks and crevices and really protects the metal underneath. Try putting some bare steel out to weather with 1/2 coated and 1/2 bare metal.

The knock could be the suspension bottom arm but also check the exhaust to gearbox support bracket, "dog bone" bushes on the engine mount and the drive shaft inner joint. The latter get damaged if the rubber boot splits and dirt gets inside.

DaveMcT said:

I thinned down some chain saw cutting bar oil and lathered it into that dirt trap behind the front suspension. It soaks into any cracks and crevices and really protects the metal underneath. Try putting some bare steel out to weather with 1/2 coated and 1/2 bare metal.

The knock could be the suspension bottom arm but also check the exhaust to gearbox support bracket, "dog bone" bushes on the engine mount and the drive shaft inner joint. The latter get damaged if the rubber boot splits and dirt gets inside.

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Thanks for the tips, Dave. It's that kind of Panda-owner insight that makes this forum so valuable.

Coincidentally, shortly after giving up on decoking the inlet manifold and sorting the EGR in-situ (after I'd dropped the coolant ), I noticed the front struts were in different positions in the top mounts. Driver's side offset to the rear and passenger side offset to the front. A bit of research on FF revealed the passenger side top mount had been fitted 180 degrees out! So I pulled the strut off on Monday and refitted it with the mount in correct orientation.

The knock has now vanished. I still don't know exactly what was fouling but it's gone so I'll take the victory.

Thanks for sharing

The fan not slowing points to a resistor problem.. it supposedly cable tied into the bodyshell.. and they build a panda around it

Worth removing the fan...and checking the wiring 1st though..

varesecrazy said:

Thanks for sharing

The fan not slowing points to a resistor problem.. it supposedly cable tied into the bodyshell.. and they build a panda around it

Worth removing the fan...and checking the wiring 1st though..

Click to expand...

correct

the thermal fuse had blown in the resistor pack

Its there for protection. The resistor pack is in the airflow it blows because the blower, well hasn't been blowing

the lower the speed the less power the motor has. Just because it works at max doesn't mean its okay.

normally just some dirt or leaves making not spin as freely as it should

some just change the resistor pack and it works. Some change the resistor pack it blows again and then the change the blower as well

I would clean the blower out first and make sure it spins freely and true before changing the resistor pack

there not too bad to change with a flexi drive

varesecrazy said:

Thanks for sharing

Click to expand...

No worries

varesecrazy said:

The fan not slowing points to a resistor problem.. it supposedly cable tied into the bodyshell.. and they build a panda around it

Worth removing the fan...and checking the wiring 1st though..

Click to expand...

Exactly what I thought. I've just fixed the same issue on my Rover 400 by replacing the resistor which looked like it had actually caught fire.

This thread is a bit behind my progress with the Panda so apologies if it appears I have quick answers.

I bought a new resistor pack with the intention of swapping it out. Now... despite the Haynes 'Book of Lies' suggesting it's quite a simple repair, I just could not get onto the tiny bolts (5.5mm heads!) that hold the thing in. And I really tried, lower dash plastics off, driver's seat out, clutch pedal down, removed a few brackets and moved some bits of wiring loom, shoved my arm in as far as I could. As you say, It appears the whole interior was built around it.

Needless to say, I gave up. I've read that it can be retrofitted elsewhere with a dedicated fan and was looking into it. Then two weeks ago, out of nowhere, after twisting the knob back down to turn it off speed 4, it worked on 3. Then 2. Then 1. To say I was chuffed is an understatement because that ruled out the thermal fuse on the resistor pack. And that means I don't need to get it out at all. A bit of switch cleaner into the knob and it's worked perfectly since.

I think this Panda and I are getting onto the same wavelength

It's alway the way isn't it? The more I poked around, the more I found. To be fair, I'd forgotten I'd seen the intercooler-to-turbo pipe was wrapped in gaffa tape when I first viewed it. And that it was oily. Also found a split in the breather-to-turbo hose. Ordered and now fitted a new MAF-to-turbo pipe (as it seemed the only way I could get the replacement breather return hose). The breather's oil return pipe was also split and leaking so replaced that too along with stripping and cleaning all the other pipes.

Time to clean the intercooler the hard way. By removing the front bumper...

Also noticed this little anomoly. Seems to be some residual voltage finding it's way to the PAS dash light and the oil pressure dash light. Both are dimly illuminated all the time, even with the ignition off. I'll likely start another thread on this if this weekend's probing finds nothing obvious.

the lights are not switched on and off directly


there controlled via a digital signal on the canbus.


probably the best start would be to reseat the dash connector


and then the body computer connector


while there look for signs of water entering the footwell behind the body computer.

koalar said:

the lights are not switched on and off directly


there controlled via a digital signal on the canbus.


probably the best start would be to reseat the dash connector


and then the body computer connector


while there look for signs of water entering the footwell behind the body computer.

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Top man. Thanks for the quick response. I'll have a check over the weekend and report back

not come across the exact same

but have seen the indicator ⚠ fixed by reseating the dash

ECU Testing https://www.ecutesting.com says that dash lights staying on is known fault.

It might be cheaper to get another dash and have it reset (virginised). You Tube has a few videos but all seem to need special equipment.

weemac said:

Also noticed this little anomoly. Seems to be some residual voltage finding it's way to the PAS dash light and the oil pressure dash light. Both are dimly illuminated all the time, even with the ignition off. I'll likely start another thread on this if this weekend's probing finds nothing obvious.

Click to expand...

Two points here.

The 'dash failures' Ive seen are ONLY visible at night.. they are that feint

They are piggybacking on a certain circuit operating.. lights(punto)..indicators(500)

Your Dash should be DEAD.. if I read this correctly

DaveMcT said:

ECU Testing https://www.ecutesting.com says that dash lights staying on is known fault.

It might be cheaper to get another dash and have it reset (virginised). You Tube has a few videos but all seem to need special equipment.

Click to expand...

Thanks again for the tip, Dave. Some research to be done on my part. Fortunately, I've been chatting to another forum member who's breaking an Panda MJ so at least getting another cluster may be possible.

varesecrazy said:

Two points here.

The 'dash failures' Ive seen are ONLY visible at night.. they are that feint

They are piggybacking on a certain circuit operating.. lights(punto)..indicators(500)

Your Dash should be DEAD.. if I read this correctly

Click to expand...

The PAS light looks much brighter in the photo than with my own eyes. Both lights are very faint although are still visible in the daylight. I have a decent (Delphi) scanner and have tested all the dash lights that it's able to access and all seem to work fine. The instrument cluster itself appears to work perfectly. I'll try koalar's suggestion and reseat the dash connectors and body ECU connector and take it from there.

Thanks all for your input