With Twinkle (my '16 plate 1.0 petrol direct injection Ibiza) now well out of warranty, and having decided I'm going to service and maintain her myself, my thoughts are turning to what oil I'm going to use. The "easy" choice would be to simply go with the manufacturer recommendation which is a Castrol oil, either a 5w-30 or a 5w-40 to VW spec 502 or 504 - or so Mr Haynes says. I really must check the owner's manual. However the stated capacity is 4 litres and Castrol seem to now sell their products in 4 litre, rather than 5 litre containers so leaving virtually nothing for top ups. (This seems to be a developing trend as I noticed a couple of others also selling in 4 litre containers.) There's also the fact that the Castrol product, which I hold in high regard, is seldom discounted to any great extent. The main dealer, who has been servicing her during her warranty period, tells me that as I elected to go with the fixed/yearly regime she's been running on a "professional" Castrol 5w-40 oil not available to the public which comes in bulk containers? I've not had any success trying to find out any specs for it.

Then there's the fact she's a petrol direct injection design without any port injectors. Direct injection has been around for a while now and has been adopted by most of the manufacturers for emission compliance and economy reasons. The Ibiza consistently returns around 60 mpg on long haul journeys and is also very good on local stuff which is comparable with my old 1.9 tdi - I'm very impressed. However there does seem to be a "Dirty Little Secret" with direct injection engines - Inlet port and valve carbon fouling!

If you're sitting thinking, "what is he on about"? I am not surprised because I've not been able to engage anyone at a main dealer in meaningful conversation on this subject! However here are a couple of You Tube offerings on the subject which might bring you up to speed on the subject:





I've been in conversation, off and on, with a number of specialists and oil manufacturers/suppliers for a while now and there seem to be moves afoot to produce oils for these engines which will minimize this problem. The latest API spec seems to be "SN PLUS" (I'm not sure if ACEA are making specific recommendations yet?) but it, The API spec, seems more concerned with minimizing Low Speed Pre Ignition problems than inlet fouling. (LSPI in Direct Injection engines being another whole "can of worms" if you'd like another avenue to explore)

https://www.castrol.com/en_us/unite...nd-fluids/new-api-sn-plus-specifications.html

At this time I'm veering somewhat towards one of my favourite brands - Fuchs - who seem to be making claims about low volativity. Their supersyn 5w-40 is also vw 502 certified.

The next service is due in March next year so I have plenty of time to haver and procrastinate before I have to settle on a choice. Anyone want to add to my investigations? Schumi? Do I remember correctly that you work with Shell? Are you guys concerned about this? Perhaps you are already well on the road with a specific solution?

Anyway, if nothing else, I hope you all enjoy the vids - I find it a fascinating subject. It just occurred to me that I "fiddle about" with older Fiat stuff - Pandas and the Punto. My experience is pretty much all with the FIRE group of engines, unless you want to go back to the Mirafiore and 128? and I've forgotten most of what I knew about them! Are newer Fiat petrol engines direct injection? I don't really know.
Kindest regards
Jock

I'm about to change the oil and filter on the Fabia, between showers, and have had the same issue as you.
The handbook does not mention the grade, only teh spec, VW502 for fixed intervals, or VW504 for variable.
Eurocar parts just offer a whole list of oils, with subtle differences that are not explained, so from that list I moved to the oil manufacturers' websites. Best to read carefully how they describe the spec, whether 'to' the spec, or 'approved'. I settled on Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40. Bought from CarParts4Less along with the filter, as they are nearly always cheaper than Euro, but are just a mail order section of the same company, although with a shorter list of parts at times.

It is Shell, they claim it is to VW502, so that'll do for me. The Euro own brand QX was a bit vague about approved or not, so I decided not. Seems fine in the Panda, but that demands little.

'Evening PB. I've been running the Panda and Punto on Fuchs Titan GT1 5w-40 for the last couple of years and I just did a big service on the Punto - before getting embroiled in all that master cylinder nonsense - and I've got more sitting in the garage waiting to go with the Panda. The cars seem to be running great on it and their "guts" look nice and clean. I've been buying from Opie but not necessarily from their dedicated site, more usually from their Ebay site where it is usually a fair bit cheaper and shipped free.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-TI...015197&hash=item27d9a67e62:g:95wAAOSw9~5ZVh4Z

It's ACEA C3, API SM/SN so pretty much up to the latest specs. Also rated VW 502/505 and Fiat 955535-S2. Absolutely spot on for our little 8 valve engines and, as it's 502 compliant and a 5w-40, which is the viscosity she's been running on all her life so far, I'm thinking about it for the Ibiza. I'd like to try to find out something about it's volatility rating (called NOACK testing) but finding it difficult. It would appear from what I've read so far that more volatile oils contribute to faster carbon build up on DI/GDI engines.

I've also been looking at high end PAO and Ester synthetic oils

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-Ti...723983?hash=item2a2fcf098f:g:u2gAAOSwIzNXPDsh

Which I find very interesting but they are quite pricey. A total overkill for the wee Fiats with their lightly stressed engines but maybe an investment for the Ibiza's highly stressed little turbo jobbie? Oh dear, just too much choice.

Trying to understand oils when you're not "in the loop" is really difficult isn't it? But quite good fun - and there is so much to browse on the internet too. Wonder how much of it I should believe?

No need for pricey PAO/ester , as long as there is a cheaper alternative: GTL (gas-to-liquid, Group lll+ base oils), they almost match PAO but for lower prices.
They have lower Pour points, higher Flash points and lower Noack (evaporation) than usual Group lll oils (which also progressed lately)

Some of the reputed producers offer easily affordable GTL based oils, for exemple Shell (see "Pure Plus Technology" on the label's seal), Mobile1 (Visom), and it seems, Selenia/Petronas.

For direct injection, a low Noack might help reduce fouling and deposits.
SN plus oil contain a lower level of Calcium based detergents, to prevent LSPI (as said before), not only in DI engines.
The biggest issue in DIs AFAIK is oil's dilution with unburned fuel.

In any type of engine, a motor oil, with use, looses viscosity by shearing, thermic degradation and, mostly, fuel dilution.

So, IMHO, especially in a DI engine, a higher viscosity oil with a good base (low Noack, high HTHS) should be better, but staying between the engine's manufacturer's limits.
So if the car's manual says 5w30 and 5w40, I'll choose a 5w40 with the highest 100°C kinematic viscosity.

(the SAE J300 oils' classification in -30 , -40 , -50 grades/weights depends on 100°C kinematic viscosity)

So, IMO, not only for DI's:
-higher HTHS = better protection at operating temps 90-100°C
- lower Noack = less evaporation, less deposits, better base
- higher 100°C kinematic viscosity = longer oil life (it takes longer to be diluted) , smoother engine at operating temps
- lower CCS/MRV for cold start protection

All within the car's manual limits.

Saxon78 said:

No need for pricey PAO/ester , as long as there is a cheaper alternative: GTL (gas-to-liquid, Group lll+ base oils), they almost match PAO but for lower prices.
They have lower Pour points, higher Flash points and lower Noack (evaporation) than usual Group lll oils (which also progressed lately)

Some of the reputed producers offer easily affordable GTL based oils, for exemple Shell (see "Pure Plus Technology" on the label's seal), Mobile1 (Visom), and it seems, Selenia/Petronas.

For direct injection, a low Noack might help reduce fouling and deposits.
SN plus oil contain a lower level of Calcium based detergents, to prevent LSPI (as said before), not only in DI engines.
The biggest issue in DIs AFAIK is oil's dilution with unburned fuel.

In any type of engine, a motor oil, with use, looses viscosity by shearing, thermic degradation and, mostly, fuel dilution.

So, IMHO, especially in a DI engine, a higher viscosity oil with a good base (low Noack, high HTHS) should be better, but staying between the engine's manufacturer's limits.
So if the car's manual says 5w30 and 5w40, I'll choose a 5w40 with the highest 100°C kinematic viscosity.

(the SAE J300 oils' classification in -30 , -40 , -50 grades/weights depends on 100°C kinematic viscosity)

So, IMO, not only for DI's:
-higher HTHS = better protection at operating temps 90-100°C
- lower Noack = less evaporation, less deposits, better base
- higher 100°C kinematic viscosity = longer oil life (it takes longer to be diluted) , smoother engine at operating temps
- lower CCS/MRV for cold start protection

All within the car's manual limits.

Click to expand...

What an interesting post Saxon. Thanks very much, lots of stuff for me to investigate further. In my ignorance, but on the limited basis of what I already know, I had decided some time ago to stay with the 5w-40 viscosity product so I'm further reassured to find you also recommending the 5w-40 viscosity as probably beneficial.

Also very interesting to see what you say about PAO/Ester oils - is that what they call group 4? - because I was really thinking the cost wasn't justifiable for my everyday car. So, any tips on where I might look to find the figures - Noack, HTHS, etc - on specific products? and how can I easily/quickly identify a Gas To Liquid/group 3+ based oil when looking at the labeling?

My sister lives about 2 hours west of Boston Mass and my daughter, husband and kids were based in Southern Maryland for a number of years, returning to the UK only recently. We've spent many weeks over there and, with my interest in cars, I've made a number of friends who are like minded. I've been following, with great interest, Honda's tribulations with their relatively new "Earth Dreams" 1.5 DI turbo petrol and it's liking for diluting it's oil with petrol especially in the colder states. Try googling "Oil dilution in Honda's 1.5 DI turbo engine" There's some very interesting reading. It's one of the reasons why I'm a bit obsessed with what oil to use in my DI engine. Most of all though it would seem that keeping short journeys to a minimum and regular oil changes with a "good" oil are a good starting point. Luckily, here in Edinburgh, we have a really excellent and cheap bus service so taking the car for a local trip makes little sense unless there is something bulky/unwieldy to be collected.

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

Thanks very much, lots of stuff for me to investigate further.
Also very interesting to see what you say about PAO/Ester oils - is that what they call group 4? .

Click to expand...

Thank you, you're welcome!

PAO = Group 4
esters, AN = Gr 5
normal hydrocracked petroleum oils = gr 3
hydrocracked Gas to liquid oils (from methane gas) = gr 3+

Looks like I need 5 posts on this forum to post a link, so I'll continue in the next post below

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

So, any tips on where I might look to find the figures - Noack, HTHS, etc - on specific products? and how can I easily/quickly identify a Gas To Liquid/group 3+ based oil when looking at the labeling?

Click to expand...

You can find oils' data on producers' sites, just search for TDS (Technical Data Sheet) or PDS (product data sheet)
for example here you have the PDS on the right side
https://www.castrol.com/en_gb/united-kingdom/home/car-engine-oil-and-fluids/engine-oils/engine-oil-brands/castrol-edge-brand/castrol-edge.html#tab_5w-40



Those TDS/PDS are more or less informative, depending on what the producer wants to disclose... or not; HTHS, Noack are difficult to find, most of the time, yet they're essential.

Another source are the VOAs (Virgin Oil Analysis), samples sent by enthusiasts to private labs, they show more or less data (depends on what they've paid for)
HTHS is again missing, the tool to measure it it's quite expensive for small labs. Anyway, plenty of info there!
Here you have a rich database on oils (but formulations change every few years, one needs to make attention to the year/version)

https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/forum/68-каталог-лабораторных-анализов/ -the original, in russian, (with good comments if you use Google translate or speak Russian) or...
https://oil-club.de/index.php?board/2-frischöl/&91963631 in german

GTL oils?
AFAIK, only Shell states clearly on the bottles "Pure Plus Technology" (their name for GTL); look for the piston's head on the bottle's label
https://www.shell.fr/particuliers/oils-lubricants/helix-for-cars/helix-fully-synthetic/shell-helix-ultra-5w-40.html

Others keep it more or less secret, but there are clues; for example, those private VOA analysis, when they show a Gr 3 oil aspect at IR spectroscopy, but with an amazingly low Pour point (without added POA that has low Pour Point too)... that means GTL, they say
https://www.oil-club.ru/forum/topic/31171-petronas-selenia-k-pure-energy-5w-40-svezhee/


IMO, the most important thing is the SAE J300 classification, that explains why an oil is called 0w, 5w, -40, -50 etc
They list the essentials (HTHS, kinem. viscosity at 100°C, CCS and MRV), they don't loose time with non essential data like density, kin. viscosity at 40°C (serves only to calculate the Viscosity Index)
https://www.widman.biz/English/Tables/J300.html

...and the fact that oils, with use, will loose their viscosity (that's why the engine sounds smooth with new oil and rough/noisy with a "tired" oil, after, let's say, 10K km)

Once I managed to put the bits and ends together, things look rather simple.

Saxon78 said:

Thank you, you're welcome!

PAO = Group 4
esters, AN = Gr 5
normal hydrocracked petroleum oils = gr 3
hydrocracked Gas to liquid oils (from methane gas) = gr 3+

Click to expand...

That's another first for me. I've seen references to group 4 based oils but this is the first time, I think, that I've ever heard of group 5!

So, Do you work in this field? Hope you don't mind me asking but you seem very knowledgeable.

I have used Petronas oils in the past (mainly because that is what was supplied to me by Shop4parts) It was 3000 AV 5w-40. I found this spec sheet for it:
https://extranetpli-eu.pli-petronas.com/dsp/pdf/ENG/stec/1828_stec_ENG.pdf - what is it telling me?

Another of my favourite brands is Fuchs. For the Ibiza (CHZB engine) they recommend their Titan GT1 Pro C-3 5w-30 ACEA C3 API SN (XTL technology - whatever that is?) or Titan supersyn Longlife 5w-40 ACEA A3 API SN (no mention of XTL?). When contacted they were keen to advise me to use the Pro C-3 5w-30 "for the many benefits it brings"? This is all I've been able to find on it:
https://www.generaloils.net/PI_TITAN-GT1-PRO-C-3-5W-30_e.pdf. Not too sure what it all means. But the Pro C-3 5w-30 is way the most expensive.

Interestingly, perhaps, the Fuchs Titan GT1 5w-40 (with XTL?) which I use in the Fiats as it complies with the Fiat S955535-S2 spec, is also a VW 502 spec so complies with the lower vw spec for my Ibiza DI and it's a 5w-40. Also says it's API SN ACEA C3. So far I have been unable to find any detailed spec for this Fuchs product although Opie say that if you contact them individually they will email info to you, haven't done this yet. I'm tempted because it means buying just the one oil for all three vehicles so could take advantage of bulk discount.

Feel like throwing any light or offering opinions to help me?
Kind regards
Jock

I'll happily take a try
No, I don't work in this field (I'd like to...)
Just un autodidact.

Fuchs aren't very generous with their datas, are they?
The GT1 family has XTL Technology, whatever that means (cold start protection & so on...maybe a bit of PAO or GTL?)

Here's the PDS for Fuchs Titan GT1 5w-40 (hope that link works)
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://fuchsbd.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/TITAN-GT-1-SAE-5W-40.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjt2rbVp_TkAhVLDmMBHeBbBzMQFjAJegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0fx9rr6thNOsDyY5Ru-5Ur

But here's something MUCH more informative, a VOA (except HTHS, it has everything we need)
https://oil-club.de/index.php?thread/1619-fuchs-titan-gt-1-5w-40/

Good kinematic viscosity 100°C, 14,4cSt, in the midst of the range for a Xw-40 (many -40s, these days, are on the lower edge, at 13,xx cSt)
Excellent, low CCS (for cold starts) 5500
Good Noack 9.3
Low Ca (-based detergents) 1900 instead of usual 2700ish. So, an LSPI preventing oil.

Seems like good stuff.
As long as it carries the specs for your 3 cars...why not?

Links worked fine. Thanks very much. This one's an addition to my short list then.
Many thanks again, Your info in these posts has set me off on a much more informed search.
Regards
Jock

Good grief it is all getting very complicated. At least for the Panda things are fairly simple, as it is an old design and a simple engine.
The Fabia has a DI engine, but the handbook and workshop manual do not specify the viscosity, just the VW spec, demanding 502 for fixed servicing intervals and 504 for variable intervals.
Yesterday I changed the oil and filter on the Fabia, using Shell Helix Ultra 5w-40, which Shell list as suitable and meeting VW502. The engine is certainly quieter, but even the Panda is quieter after an oil change, so that may not mean anything. On startup, the hydraulic tappets have always rattled a little for a few moments, but now they do not. We'll see if that is just for a while, or permanent until the service early in the new year, which will be done by the local Skoda specialist where I bought it. (As it is the 'work' car, they can do the annual inspection, and the tax man can subsidise it as a business expense. Car will be done quickly and good to have an independent person look at it.) I think they are using the same spec oils for fixed or variable servicing, so might be 5W-30.

portland_bill said:

Good grief it is all getting very complicated. At least for the Panda things are fairly simple, as it is an old design and a simple engine.
The Fabia has a DI engine, but the handbook and workshop manual do not specify the viscosity, just the VW spec, demanding 502 for fixed servicing intervals and 504 for variable intervals.
On startup, the hydraulic tappets have always rattled a little for a few moments, but now they do not. We'll see if that is just for a while, or permanent
I think they are using the same spec oils for fixed or variable servicing, so might be 5W-30.

Click to expand...

Yes PB, things are so simple where the Panda - & Punto - are concerned. I generally find that any decision, correct oil for instance, can be quickly made with full confidence.

My Ibiza has the 3 cylinder CHZB 95hp (70kw) DI engine, could be the same as yours? Mine also rattles quite noticeably on start up and then settles to a subdued "tinkly rattle" after a few seconds which then virtually disappears once warmed up. Although the garage tells me they use a 5w-40 for fixed interval servicing it looks very "thin" when dipped and, although I have no reason to doubt what they say, I had wondered if it might be 5w-30. It would make sense for them to stock just the one bulk oil, especially when they are so close in viscosity? I will be interested, when I do the first oil change with a 5w-40, to see if there is any change in the valve train rattle on start up.

Undoubtedly the initial couple of seconds of rattle is due to the normal "pumping up" of the tappets - very common to all hydraulic tappets - I'm more interested in the ensuing - very subdued (you've got to be listening for it) tinkle - tinkle doesn't really describe it too well by the way - which decreases as she warms up. I think it's probably due to the roller followers? I raised it with the dealer at her first service and was told they could find/hear no problem - of course I couldn't speak to the mechanic. These noises haven't changed in the 3 years and 18,000 miles since I bought her. I am reassured by one of my neighbour's recent purchase of a Fabia estate (nice car). I don't know these people too well (they are not next door) so don't speak to them often, but the engine is obviously the 3 cylinder and sounds pretty much exactly like mine.

Pugglt Auld Jock said:

My Ibiza has the 3 cylinder CHZB 95hp (70kw) DI engine, could be the same as yours?

- I'm more interested in the ensuing - very subdued (you've got to be listening for it) tinkle - tinkle doesn't really describe it too well by the way - which decreases as she warms up. I think it's probably due to the roller followers?

Click to expand...

Mine is a 2015 1.2 4cyl TSi, CJZC 89hp. I think it was introduced in that model year, as an all aluminium engine, wheras the previous year and before it had an iron block. Quite a short-lived unit, in fitment that is, not service life, as it is not available in current Fabias, all having gone to the 3cyl unit in various power outputs. A lot of them about of course, across the whole VAG range.

Being turbocharged, there is no manifold vacuum, so it has a vac pump for the servo, like diesels have had for years. That may be the source of the 'tinkle'. Certainly mine makes some noise.

Mine also has an intermittent whine, quite like a brake pad touching the disc, the sort that comes and goes as teh steering is turned slightly. But it is not brakes, as it is not affected by touching the pedal. My guess on that one is the freewheeling alternator pulley.
Engines themselves, well petrol ones anyway, are so quiet these days, we get to hear all the ancillaries instead.

portland_bill said:

Being turbocharged, there is no manifold vacuum, so it has a vac pump for the servo, like diesels have had for years. That may be the source of the 'tinkle'. Certainly mine makes some noise.

Mine also has an intermittent whine, quite like a brake pad touching the disc, the sort that comes and goes as teh steering is turned slightly. But it is not brakes, as it is not affected by touching the pedal. My guess on that one is the freewheeling alternator pulley.
Engines themselves, well petrol ones anyway, are so quiet these days, we get to hear all the ancillaries instead.

Click to expand...

Mine has that vacuum pump, electrically driven, which sits on the inner wing on the O/S of the engine bay. I must admit I puzzled over what it was the first couple of times I opened the bonnet until the penny dropped that with the turbo it has no usable vacuum source. Subsequently I've noticed that it does seem to have a throttle butteryfly and there seem to be vacuum pipes associated with it so maybe the vacuum pump doesn't do it all, maybe only when there's boost being applied? I don't know, still learning about this complicated engine. Also a bit of a give away when you look at where the pipes go to? I'm now used to the noise it makes which I only really hear when you switch the ignition on and before you fire up the engine. It's also got a mechanical water pump driven off the back end of one of the cams with a toothed belt - all enclosed so you can't see it to asses belt condition! Not only that but it also has an electrically driven water pump low down on the front of the engine which I think is involved in circulating coolant through the water cooled turbo, including after the engine stops to combat heat sinking? I have to admit that now a days I'm getting a bit out of my depth with all this.

As you say, modern engines/transmissions are so quiet we're now hearing all these other noises which previously would have been drowned out. I have a "pockle pockle" noise (best description possible) which you hear typically when traversing speed bumps. I've isolated it to the O/S front suspension and can reproduce it by jacking that corner up and then dropping the whole car quickly - it doesn't do it for small suspension movements. The dealer has looked at it twice, agrees the noise is there, can't find it and has no idea what's making it! I've recently managed to further isolate it to somewhere around the top of the strut. Could be the gator, top mount, strut itself, but just can't isolate it. GRRRRRR. I'm going to find it though! (mind you, took me nearly 2 years, on and off, to find a poorly installed turbo trunking fastening which caused a rattle on my old 1.9tdi Cordoba. It only rattled on large throttle openings when pulling hard, you couldn't make it do it in the driveway)

Mine doesn't have the whine. I'm not too sure how that alternator freewheel works. Mine has it and it looks like a simple overrun device? I don't see any "controlling" clutch etc. So my guess is it's an overrun (rollers/balls on ramps) type thingy. Could the intermittent nature of your noise be more likely to be air con cutting in and out on it's clutch? OOOH! eureka moment perhaps? These motors do regenerative/smart charging don't they? Might you be "hearing" the magnetic flux in the alternator when it goes into "supercharged" smart charging mode? I thought of this when I suddenly remembered when at college I did a few days specifically on the, then new, alternators which were suddenly replacing dynamos. We had a test bench which you ran a variety of different alternators on and made observations of fault effects, replaced diode packs and regulators, and recorded outputs etc. I remember being surprised by two things in particular - How much power an alternator consumes when charging hard and the noise, a distinctive whine, when working hard. The test bench was "magic" for definitively diagnosing alternator faults. Needless to say I never saw another one in my entire working life. The usual remedy being "just stick a new one on it son". Mind you, that way the boss was covered for warranty whereas, if we'd repaired the old one and it subsequently went wrong, he would have been out of pocket for the re-repair. A lot of repair work bows down to that philosophy in my experience.

Well, I've been bothering the pants off the guys at Power Enhancer, Opie Oils, Fuchs themselves, Castrol and various others as well as reading tech "stuff" about different base oils additives etc. By yesterday morning my head was totally buzzing! However having spent a few hours with my youngest boys family and especially the new baby (only 2 days old) and my granddaughter, I've had time to calm down and reflect. So, ta tarra tarra tiddly pom, Yes I've finally gone over the edge! I've decided it's going to be - - - Fuchs Race Pro C3 5W-30:

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-89826-fuchs-titan-race-pro-c3-5w-30-fully-synthetic-engine-oil.aspx

https://oil-club.de/index.php?attachment/4242-fuchs-titan-race-pro-s-5w-30-03-2015-pdf/

Most likely bought from Opie as i buy oil for the other cars from them and I'm very happy with their service.

The reasons behind this decision are legion and I know the choice of a PAO/ester base for a "standard" road car might be questioned by some but have a good read of the specs above and then think of the stresses and shear forces, to say nothing of temperatures, the turbo and high pressure DI petrol pump (just for starters) will be imposing on the oil. There's roller bearings at the front of the cams too and roller followers (all "hard" metal on "hard" metal situations) Then there's the very low volatility of this type of oil which I'm hoping will perhaps lessen the carbon build up problem in the inlet tracts? but maybe this is not really the biggest factor as I suspect it's going to build up anyway.

So, I'm about 95% happy with having reached this stage in my decision. Anyone want to disabuse me?

Saxon78 said:

I'll happily take a try
No, I don't work in this field (I'd like to...)
Just un autodidact.

Fuchs aren't very generous with their datas, are they?
The GT1 family has XTL Technology, whatever that means (cold start protection & so on...maybe a bit of PAO or GTL?)

Click to expand...

Oh, by the way Saxon 78. I discovered, a wee while ago, That Fuchs are now the supplier of the Quantum branded oils to TPS. (TPS, as you may know, are a trade parts business owned by VAG as far as I can learn.) Fuchs openly announced this a while ago. Previously it was Castrol (from what I've read). So, if this info - all gleaned by Googling - is correct, I would be tempted to assume that Fuchs know a thing or two about formulating VAG suitable oils?

Good info, thanks, I didn't knew that.

Castrol : Fuchs..

One business?

Or did 'Silkolene' rebrand as Fuchs..

Silkolene was aquired by Fuchs in 1989.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuchs_Petrolub#The_%22Silkolene%22_brand_name

AFAIK, Castrol and Fuchs are different entities. On a Quick Google search with those names, I stumbled upon the lawsuit that opposed them in SA concerning product names
http://www.saflii.org/za/cases/ZAGPPHC/2014/1031.html

Yup, as far as I know Silkolene is a Fuchs owned brand and seems to be heavily angled towards motorcyle products.

Until I have enough to be worth a trip to the recycling centre I keep my waste engine oil in two large old cans (around 5 gallon size) The one I use most is a heavy duty plastic container which originally contained diesel oil. The other?



You can see a little bit of the more modern blue plastic container to it's left. I've had the Silkolene can for so long I don't remember anything about when or where I acquired it! Hopefully it'll outlast me. At 5 gallons when full they are both just about liftable up to the inlet to the tanks at the recycling centre. Just of late I have to admit to not filling them to the brim though! Here's a couple of other details which might be of interest.





I especially like the stick on label describing the contents - Takes me back to simpler times when you could tip 20W-50 into just about anything that wasn't air cooled (they would take SAE 30 in summer and SAE 40 in winter - yes, 2 oil changes a year ideally, and they were all the better for it!