Technical Rounded bolts on brake disc locator screws

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Technical Rounded bolts on brake disc locator screws

JDAnderson

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2010 PANDA 1.1 active eco (169)

Hi folks, I don't suppose anyone has had issues removing the locator screws when replacing brake discs on a MK2 Panda? Both screws on my front right (haven't had the courage to look at the left yet!) are stuck and the bolt is begining to get rounded. I'm very much an amateur at this and don't have a great deal of kit. Any ideas? Would sooner avoid having to take it to a garage. Here's a photo of one of the replacements that came with the new discs, any advice welcome :)

James 1566724825160.jpeg1566724847517.jpeg
 
plumbers blowtorch and correct spanners has always worked for me on any screw/bolt that isn't damaged.

a ring spanner or combination spanner isn't they way to go. There is less metal than a bolt for it to grip onto

a Good quality, 6 point, deep socket is best. Halfords sell socket individually and if they are in there advance / expert range or whatever they call it this week it comes with a lifetime warranty


Just taken 4 out but these came off easy as I had already taken them out and greased them before refitting. Worth doing.


On one car one of the screws was already damaged and a socket was already loose and didn't fit well.


One of these worked.
 

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Spot on advice from Koalar and jimboy. I've never owned a set of deep impact sockets (got the standard short ones) but my recent adventures with Becky's struts reminded me that using a standard deep socket is a bit risky (although I got away without it shattering - lucky) So I've been looking into deep impact sockets. Can't justify "big name" prices and came up with these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254263842900

I didn't fully appreciate the significance and was somewhat sceptical of the "Xi-on" feature. Here's a close up of one of the larger ones from the set:

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The advertising claims they will tackle 85% worn fixings. The clue is in the wording. There is no "of". In other words I believe it means they will tackle fixings worn up to 85% ie, not completely rounded off? I think they work by the striations on the inside of the socket "digging in" to the remains of the worn fixing, so getting a grip which lets it be undone. Anyway under normal use they work just like an ordinary socket and leave no marks that I can see on the hex face of the fixing. Yet to really test them on something seized or rounded. By the way, like the small number of other Bergen branded tools I have, they seem robust and well made. Also worth noting that the vendor was exceptionally helpful answering 3 emails before I bought and delivering up here to Scotland within the minimum time they quoted.

PS the Bergen brand is owned by the same people who do US Pro and I came across an internet entry where they are saying the Bergen name is going to be dropped in favour of US Pro - Maybe some bargains will be around as they sell out the Bergen stuff? Certainly these sockets were much cheaper than I could find other vendors doing them.
 
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Thanks, I've ordered a deep socket as annoyingly Halfords had run out of the correct size! Have also ordered some of these things (see picture) to see it they help to get a better grip.

Another thing I was going to ask...are there supposed to be dust/grease caps on the front axels? Doesn't appear to be one on the front right, the Haynes manual shows them but I'm not sure if the photo refers to the 500 as it's a dual manual.Screenshot_20190825-121442_Amazon%20Shopping.jpeg1566732028958.jpeg
 
plumbers blowtorch and correct spanners has always worked for me on any screw/bolt that isn't damaged.

a ring spanner or combination spanner isn't they way to go. There is less metal than a bolt for it to grip onto

a Good quality, 6 point, deep socket is best. Halfords sell socket individually and if they are in there advance / expert range or whatever they call it this week it comes with a lifetime warranty


Just taken 4 out but these came off easy as I had already taken them out and greased them before refitting. Worth doing.


On one car one of the screws was already damaged and a socket was already loose and didn't fit well.


One of these worked.
Cheers Koaler, can you tell me what those spanners in the picture are called?
 
I am 90% sure there are no caps on my fronts only the rears. A quick look on youtube also show none on the front.


Might depend on year, model or wheels. Although its possible Haynes just use a generic photo from one of fiats sister cars ?
 
Good to see you're doing some jobs on the car. If you're keen to go further, buying some decent tools for various uses as you go on. In all my years of car ownership the one & only thing that has stopped me in my tracks is RUST, it is the one thing that you must allow for if tackling jobs that may take some time & then some. I've always gained satisfaction doing jobs on my cars, hope you feel the same in the future. Best of luck...:)
 
Cheers Koaler, can you tell me what those spanners in the picture are called?

no idea. Don't think they have a proper name. Universal wrench or universal spanner see s to work in google

the ones in the photo and mine are rubbish but the will get the job done. Mine were from a market. They were only a pound or so for two. They are only chrome plated steel. The rubber handle on the ones in the photo although nice will stop it lying flat


you can get better chrome vanadium ones with spring loaded Jaws. Also the teeth or finer and better defined.


clamping on 3 sides is a 1\3 better than the stison pipe wrench which should also work
 
You can't go wrong with Halfords professional stuff, all the more better if you know someone with a trade card. Keep an eye open on the likes of local Gumtree & the likes, every now & then a bargain comes up. At prezzie time be cheeky & ask for tools or gift vouchers that buy tools....;)
 
Many thanks for all the help and encouragement. I'm glad to have taken the plunge to do some work on the car...however infuriating it can be! I love the problem solving element of it all :)
 
I am 90% sure there are no caps on my fronts only the rears. A quick look on youtube also show none on the front.


Might depend on year, model or wheels. Although its possible Haynes just use a generic photo from one of fiats sister cars ?
Yup, no caps on the front of Becky (our 2010 1.2 Panda) she does have them on the back though. I suspect they are on the rear to afford additional protection for the wheel bearings whereas on the front the wheel bearings are in the upright behind the hub flange which is held on by that big nut. No point in a cover as there is no access for grit/rubbish/water/etc from the outside.

I bought these Stanley branded tools when I saw them on special offer a few years ago.

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They grip the nut/bolt on 3 sides and, due to their design, grip the nut tighter the more you "lean" on the handle (same sort of action as a Stilton but it, the Stanley, grips on 3 sides so doesn't crush even very tight ones). I find it particularly useful on the locknuts on steering when doing tracking and the smallest one works quite well on brake tube nuts.
 
The special bolts used on the discs have a very shallow hex that sits inside the chamfer at the business end of most sockets. Mine refused to work with a 12 point ring spanner but came off easily with plumbers pliers AKA water pump pliers. They do not have a a chamfer, have sharp teeth in the jaws and are constructed so the jaws remain parallel. Mole grips fail on this job because the jaws wobble.

If they will still not remove, you will need to weld a nut to the spike and it will then easily unscrew. Voltage spikes from arc welding can cause havoc, so don't forget to disconnect the battery and alternator cables and keep the welding set earth on the brake disc itself.

Always use a good anti-seize paste on the replacement parts.
 
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