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Technical Grande Punto Passenger Window

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Technical Grande Punto Passenger Window

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PuntoGrande2006

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Hello, since I had recently brought my punto grande it has always had a faulty passenger window, I tried to fix this problem as I brought a new motor and it hasn't done anything, what I find odd is that the window will go down but wont go back up, when I leave the car and come back to it after (e.g) five minutes the window will go back up, the problem is when it's down it doesn't go back up unless I leave the car? ... very odd :confused:

One thing is for sure it is not the motor... I will check the cables to the door next time I can, I can only think this is a fuse issue or a broken cable if so how easy is the fix?

Thanks in advanced to anyone who can help
 
What trim level is your grande, i.e. do you have to keep the button toggled or does the window move to its end by itself (button released) ??

Cheers, Bernie
 
Bernievarian said:
What trim level is your grande, i.e. do you have to keep the button toggled or does the window move to its end by itself (button released) ??

Cheers, Bernie
Click to expand...

It’s a 1.4 dynamic, bassically i can push the button on ethier side so passenger side or drivers side and the window will go down, however when I press for the window to go up it doesn’t move at all it’s just stuck, so if I turn off the car and come back to it after five minutes or so the press for the window to go up it will then go up? very strange I know just don’t know what could cause it
 
Okay thanks guys i’ll check the wire tomorrow, I’m sure it wouldn’t be the switch because both switches allow the window to go down from the drivers side and passenger side, just a shame it doesn’t go back up
 
PuntoGrande2006 said:
... I’m sure it wouldn’t be the switch because both switches allow the window to go down ...
Click to expand...


I wouldn't be so affirmative ! A broken wire in the hinge would ALSO interfer on the down motion since the engine is two wires driven ...

The signal from the driver's switch goes THRU the passenger switch before getting to the regulator (motor), therefore the passenger's switch would be my favourite candidate, eventhough a failure there should also alter the down motion... Weird indeed !

The other possibility is the pinch control circuit but I can't see WHY it would clear after leaving the car !

You can measure the voltage that goes OUT the passenger's switch to see what happens.

BTW: can you lift it back if you stop at mid travel down ??

Cheers, Bernie
 
3 or 5 doors ?
Automatic or manual lift ? (need to keep button pressed to fully open/close)
 
Not to sure what you guys mean sorry I’m not that technical with cars, the car is a 5 door - electric front windows, manual back if that’s what you mean Bernie? and yes I keep the button pressed. What would you guys suggest the best idea is to test, I’m currently not near the car but will be later first thing I can check is the wiring from the door is there anything else I could check? thanks for helping guys appreciate it alot
 
PuntoGrande2006 said:
What would you guys suggest the best idea is to test, I’m currently not near the car but will be later first thing I can check is the wiring from the door is there anything else I could check? thanks for helping guys appreciate it alot
Click to expand...


I meant:

Sot in like normal.. operating ign switch and buttons..


BUT..

Dont use drivers door.. sit in front passenger seat..

So you havent moved the drivers door wiring.

If the switches all work fine..

Open passenger door does it still work?

Close pass.door Still ok.?

If so then open drivers door..
Just a bit.. from inside..try switches again.

By drivers wiring is BAD. :(

So needs drivers door SHUT.

Charlie
 
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Okay thanks i’ll try that next time I am with the car, if the wiring is the problem is there any fix for it?
 
According to eLearn, the 5 doors has only high trim level, eventhough the rear Windows are manual AND there is some electronic/feedback in the lifting motor…
Can you confirm you HAVE TO keep the button pressed to reach the end position ? With high trim if you toggle the switch >600mSec, the motion should continue even if the button is released. Once we know what system you have, we can build a correct diagnostic procedure …

Cheers, Bernie
 
I haven’t tried just holding the button in for about a second so it does it by its self, I just hold the button pressed till it closes, I can try holding the button later when I’m with the car
 
Thanks for the sound advice here and other posts ref operation of passenger window from drivers door controls.

Daughter reported her 2008 1.2 Active GP had stopped opening her passenger window from drivers controls but was okay on passenger door side.

After checking a few threads on here and doing the recommended checks I just finished the job this afternoon and all is perfect -

Here is how I got on;
First I removed the switch itself from drivers door and stripped it to check condition of contacts within tiny circuit board - these were all gummed up so did need a clean, reassembled (I was convinced this was the reason for fault) plugged back in but nope, would still not open/close passenger wdw but all other functions worked (dvrs wdw, mirrors etc) I pulled back the grommet on drivers door loom and had a cursory glance at wires, all looked intact? So I thought dicky switch?? Then I seen that the red light on the toggle switch (on drivers door controls) was not lit for pass door, drivers door was lit and worked fine so no power...?

I then unplugged the drivers door loom completely this time and pulled it right back and had a 'Proper' look at the wires, hey presto after pulling back the rubber concertina fully as far as I could it revealed an old bit of repair work had been done (by a previous owner to two wires, just twisted joints (idiot) one was intact and sure enough the other was disconnected - this had been hidden from view behind the rubber concertina length. So out with the solder iron and a couple of new wire strands, heatshrink etc spliced in new joints to two offending wires and then had a good luck at the other smaller gauge wires, a few were basically cracked so I went over a few where needed with insulation tape. Replaced all back and Yeahh... working windows all round once again - cost a good hour of my time and bit of patience, I also dismanteld and cleaned pass door control.

So if your punto stops working the windows definitely do a full check of the door looms before wasting any time and money on anything else...

as said Thanks for posting the help I needed guys!
 
Thanks for the very clear and extended update !!

I wish everyone would share their fix to such issue(s). Maybe Ben could even think about centralizing all the fixes in a dedicated section ??

Regards, Bernie
 
Lokie said:
Thanks for the sound advice here and other posts ref operation of passenger window from drivers door controls.

Daughter reported her 2008 1.2 Active GP had stopped opening her passenger window from drivers controls but was okay on passenger door side.

After checking a few threads on here and doing the recommended checks I just finished the job this afternoon and all is perfect -

Here is how I got on;
First I removed the switch itself from drivers door and stripped it to check condition of contacts within tiny circuit board - these were all gummed up so did need a clean, reassembled (I was convinced this was the reason for fault) plugged back in but nope, would still not open/close passenger wdw but all other functions worked (dvrs wdw, mirrors etc) I pulled back the grommet on drivers door loom and had a cursory glance at wires, all looked intact? So I thought dicky switch?? Then I seen that the red light on the toggle switch (on drivers door controls) was not lit for pass door, drivers door was lit and worked fine so no power...?

I then unplugged the drivers door loom completely this time and pulled it right back and had a 'Proper' look at the wires, hey presto after pulling back the rubber concertina fully as far as I could it revealed an old bit of repair work had been done (by a previous owner to two wires, just twisted joints (idiot) one was intact and sure enough the other was disconnected - this had been hidden from view behind the rubber concertina length. So out with the solder iron and a couple of new wire strands, heatshrink etc spliced in new joints to two offending wires and then had a good luck at the other smaller gauge wires, a few were basically cracked so I went over a few where needed with insulation tape. Replaced all back and Yeahh... working windows all round once again - cost a good hour of my time and bit of patience, I also dismanteld and cleaned pass door control.

So if your punto stops working the windows definitely do a full check of the door looms before wasting any time and money on anything else...

as said Thanks for posting the help I needed guys!
Click to expand...

Thanks. Sounds identical to mine. :)

Time / facility is my issue... :(

So when you 'pulled the loom through' to actually spot the issue.

Did this involve unplugging the terminations within the door?

I.e. could you do this job without removing the door card ??

I am going to add pics when I do mine.. so it will make a bit more sense to people reading it.

Charlie
 
Last edited:
Lol,
I did remove the door card thinking I'll unplug the full loom but it was a fruitless exercise unless you going to pull the main door speaker out from what I could see (that is riveted in) so I thought leave it.

So no need to remove door card;

Just disconnect the plug at dash side of drivers door on outside of the 'A' pillar (easy to do after moving white lock clip back over the plug to undo then pull plug back) then I pulled the grommet door seal from door side right out (this allows movement of the rubber concertina cable sheath a few centimeters up/down) I pushed the rubber sheath towards plug (towards car) at first I only noticed three cracked wires from door side but when I shoved the rubber sheath towards door I found a broken wire hidden where the sheath was hiding it on plug side and two more cracked wires so then I done as my post above and all sorted.

It really was not has bad as I thought it was going to be - taped up cracked wires and soldered in two new wire extensions onto broken wires (which seemed to be the thicker heavy duty gauge wire, the other wires are quite thin small stuff)

I should have took pics as I done it - soz guys never thought but a good hour and you will have it done make sure you look both sides I.E. move rubber sheath towards door and have a good look at state of wires then move the rubber sheath towards plug side and look at that end of loom wires.

Hope that makes sense chaps! ;)
 
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