Tuning Stilo Sump Guard

Currently reading:
Tuning Stilo Sump Guard

Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
212
Points
55
Well this turned up today ?

And fitted photos will be posted soon.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20171010_084730.jpg
    IMG_20171010_084730.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 153
  • IMG_20171010_084817.jpg
    IMG_20171010_084817.jpg
    4 MB · Views: 95
  • IMG_20171010_084838.jpg
    IMG_20171010_084838.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 135
Looks like a fair old chunk of metal you got there lad! Be interested to see how this goes.

Annoyingly my car doesn't have it's engine tray on at the minute. A lot of the fixing bolts snapped off, so I can't refit anything. It was also sagging rather low, so kept hitting on things too.

Be interesting to see if this supports itself better than the flapping plastic factory cover.
 
Mine has at least one snapped bolt. Which will need to be drilled out. Hopefully all will go well.

The current one is killing me, scraps on every slight bump.....
 
Very nice indeed...

None of my bolts have snapped thank god.

I may go down this route... it appears to have an access panel for draining the oil! Sweet.
 
Mine has at least one snapped bolt. Which will need to be drilled out. Hopefully all will go well.

The current one is killing me, scraps on every slight bump.....
Can you not weld something onto the snapped bolt then bash it, spray it, bash it some more and use a wrench... probably easier than drilling...

On my stilo its all self tappers other than two under front bumper and two under the subframe (where wishbones bolt in).
 
To be honest I will let the garage sort it out. I understand my limited experience with this stuff and not having ramps etc to complete the task, is making the choice easy for me.
 
Can you not weld something onto the snapped bolt then bash it, spray it, bash it some more and use a wrench... probably easier than drilling...

On my stilo its all self tappers other than two under front bumper and two under the subframe (where wishbones bolt in).


I know this isn't an option on mine. It wasn't me that snapped them, the previous had just tie wrapped the tray in place.....

It looks like on mine the bolts have simply seized / rusted in place and rather than try and do anything constructive about it they've decided to just snap them all off.

You can see when the heads have sheared off it's taken the first few threads with it, so when you look it it the top of the now snapped bolt sits a couple of mill into the captive nut, so you've nothing to get any purchase or access on.

Ultimately for mine I think it might mean I have to take out the entire captive nut, replace some metal and put in new riv-nuts / captive nuts or something.

If they are what I think they are they're also enclosed threaded tubes the bolts screw in to, so it's not like a normal nut and bolt you could squirt some juice on top of and work it through. So once it's seized in there the options for getting anything in there to unseize are limited.

It's worth applying some form of grease of Vaseline to the top of the bolt, at least for those three across the front, so you know you'll be able to get them out again in the future.

I will need to address mine though. I'm fairly sure my airbox have jumped free from it's mountings, again, and is dangling from the bottom of the car by it's plumbing. So I'm going to need something to keep it in.
 
Yeah.. all my leading edge bolts are either seized solid or the heads have sheared off. My liner is held on with cable ties (small holes tapped into the bumper and/or the plastic bottom rail.

One day (I'm waiting for a garage space plus the temporary loan of another car, in case I can't finish the job in one go) I'm going to remove the bumper to try and sort it out.

If the rail is plastic, then I'm guessing that the bolts screw into captive "tube" nuts rather than regular "hex" nuts... ( I can't find them as separate parts on ePer although admittedly I'm not sure where they would be....) ... so assuming that the tube nuts are held in with metal burrs etc. to prevent them turning, I'm just speculating that they would be a real Mo-Fo to remove.. :D

But if you can somehow get them out without wrecking the plastic cross-rail... :D then presumably you could replace them with some regular threaded tube.. which you would have to Araldyte in place since it won't have burrs on it ... I'd use stainless bolts to prevent the new bolts seizing to the threaded tube.. but if you can find stainless threaded tube, then that would sort it forever.

Hmmm... I can feel a project coming along (in the queue behind "driveshaft refurb").. :D


Ralf S.
 
Hehe...

The rear two bolts are long and silly... can be purchased from fiat... they screw into a captive nut that is welded to the inside of The subframe... it can be accessed if one was to remove each wishbone... then a strong chisel and hammer to snap it out then weld in a new captive nut...

One of my rear bolts was completely bent and the head and washer had grinded flat... we got it out after much messing and managed to re-use it.
 
Back
Top