General Best place to jack rear of 100HP?

Currently reading:
General Best place to jack rear of 100HP?

HannsG

New member
Joined
Dec 27, 2016
Messages
79
Points
35
I've looked underneath as I want to change the bumpstops. I can't see a decent point from which to jack from.

Where does everyone jack from? Or do you Ll use the sill?

Thanks
 
Under no circumstances attempt to jack it using the sills; you'll likely damage them.

Read this post.

The pictures show a 500, but the hardpoints on the Panda 169 are exactly the same.

Since making that post, I've lifted both cars this way for six years without any issues.
 
Last edited:
Under no circumstances attempt to jack it using the sills; you'll likely damage them.

Read this post.

The pictures show a 500, but the hardpoints on the Panda 169 are exactly the same.

Since making that post, I've lifted both cars this way for six years without any issues.
Ah. I need a piece of wood to increase Surface area.

Should be fine then
 
or even better, a rubber jacking pad.

That what I used to begin with but could feel an indent starting. Or maybe it was just me being concerned. There was no hole but a rubber bung in the hole it seemed
 
Under no circumstances attempt to jack it using the sills; you'll likely damage them.

Read this post.

The pictures show a 500, but the hardpoints on the Panda 169 are exactly the same.

Since making that post, I've lifted both cars this way for six years without any issues.


I would normally use these for the axle stands with a blocks of wood.

Therefore you need to find somewhere else to jack from.

If I don't need it too high I use the factory jack.
 
just jack on the sill joint, this is the standard jacking point. unless you are an animal, they wont get damaged!
 
just jack on the sill joint, this is the standard jacking point. unless you are an animal, they wont get damaged!

Unfortunately that's just not true. If you jack on the sill joint, you'll likely cause some distortion of the sill.

See the picture in this post.

I once refused to take delivery of a new Panda with sill damage caused by a franchised dealer during the PDI; fortunately they had another car of identical spec in the compound.
 
Last edited:
Yep, I stick stands under it if I'm going underneath.
Yeah I reckon I'll be doing it this way. Jack it up via the axle and stick stands underneath.

Where do you stick the stands? Under the axle or either side of the rear?

Thanks
 
I've seen that but I can't see a good reason why.

I'd guess it's a combination of the risk of slippage (it's not a jack-friendly cross section) and the risk of a point load distorting the beam.

Even a small amount of distortion would put the rear tracking out (and the manufacturing isn't that consistent to begin with, hence quite a few 500's/Pandas suffer from premature rear tyre wear). You certainly wouldn't want to make a bad situation worse.

I think ok to jack under spring pans.

Probably OK when the car is new; on a 10yr old example, it might be a good way of finding out just how much corrosion there is on the spring pans :rolleyes:. And for many jobs, you'll want the suspension hanging free and unloaded; though I can see the point of this if you're just doing a quick wheel change. You'd still need to take extra care not to pull the car off the jack when initially tightening the wheel bolts - I prefer to jack directly onto the chassis if at all possible.

With the right jack and stands, the principal hardpoints shown in my linked post are big enough to use for both.

That said, if I need to change a wheel on a cold, wet night at the side of the motorway, I'll use whatever's easiest and quickest consistent with safety and not damaging the vehicle.
 
Last edited:
Changing a flat tire by the side of the road would most likely involve the factory jack. Off course you'd use the factory jackpoints for that.
Had to do that in Croatia a few weeks aga when I had a lot of grit stuck between the frontrotors and backingplates. First time the jack was ever out of the sparetire:D

gr J
 
Changing a flat tire by the side of the road would most likely involve the factory jack. Off course you'd use the factory jackpoints for that.
Had to do that in Croatia a few weeks aga when I had a lot of grit stuck between the frontrotors and backingplates. First time the jack was ever out of the sparetire:D

gr J

I carry a small hydraulic bottle jack with a homemade pad; much quicker when time is of the essence. I also keep another wooden pad to place under it to spread the load if I have to jack on soft ground.

In the past, I've had factory jacks collapse when used at the side of the road in extremis.

It may only happen once in ten years or so, but if it does, it'll likely be on a cold rainy night, and you'll be glad you took the time to prepare for this.

A few pairs of disposable gloves, and a large waterproof bag to put the removed wheel in, make a lot of difference.

Seems to be becoming something of a lost skill. IMO changing a wheel at the roadside should be part of the driving test.

I doubt more than about 10% of today's motorists have the wherewithall in the boot to change a wheel on the go. Most factory supplied wrenches aren't man enough to overcome the combined efforts of a kwikfit fitter and a few years wheel bolt corrosion, and those that are may pull the car off the stupid excuse for a jack that most manufacturers (used to) provide.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top