Hello everyone i'm a new member as of about 10 minutes ago haha, the problem im having is while driving along or stationary there seems to be an intermittent fault where a loud clicking can be heard from the relay in the fuse box next to the steering wheel, when this happens all guages on the cluster drop off to zero and the engine starts to briefly miss. also if the headlights are on they will turn off. i have tried all the earths in the engine bay and still nothing has helped hopefully someone could point me in the right direction, thanks

Irishstilo99 said:

i have tried all the earths in the engine bay

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How did you "try" all the earths in the engine bay?
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took them all off wire brushed the terminals and put them back on?

Check the multi-earth connections on the right of the centre console/tunnel near the ABS ECU, and under the right front wing.

Feel the relays to see which one is clicking.
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Davren said:

Check the multi-earth connections on the right of the centre console/tunnel near the ABS ECU, and under the right front wing.

Feel the relays to see which one is clicking.
.

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the main black relay in the fuse box is going mad

Irishstilo99 said:

the main black relay in the fuse box is going mad

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Which one?
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If the relays going mad pull it out check the pins for corrosion, clean and reinsert.

Likely culprits:
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-guides/99828-d4-connector.html

If you have corrosion then:
https://www.fiatforum.com/stilo-gui...use-box-near-battery-gars2.html#content_start

davren said:

which one?
.

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t13

Relay T13 supplies the three door control ECUs and the sunroof (if fitted). It gets an earth via the body computer from the multi-earth point C15. I think that's the one next to the airbag ECU.

Have you checked that one yet, as I suggested above?
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Davren said:

Relay T13 supplies the three door control ECUs and the sunroof (if fitted). It gets an earth via the body computer from the multi-earth point C15. I think that's the one next to the airbag ECU.

Have you checked that one yet, as I suggested above?
.

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yes i have completely cleaned every inch of the fuse box in the engine bay even cleaned every fuse and relay and sealed the whole unit in a case to protect it from any water but its still doing it so the next ones to try are the earths on the tunnel and the one inside the wing

electrical Problem still persisting..

my electrical problem is still persisting and im beginning to lose hope, after changing the body computer the fuse box checking all the earths and power even had a professional diagnostic technician pretty much put the car on a heart rate monitor its still doing it wev ruled out pretty much all the electrics between the front seats and the front grill and still nothing anyone have any random suggestions much appreciated thanks.

Had exactly the same problem.

Probably you need to replace the temperature sensor housing inside the intake manifold.Check for coolant leak there that makes shorts to cables.

nikiforos83 said:

Had exactly the same problem.

Probably you need to replace the temperature sensor housing inside the intake manifold.Check for coolant leak there that makes shorts to cables.

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ill do that in the morning ill let you know how it goes

just to some up this whole thread the problem ended up being a cracked coil pack was earthing off the engine and causing an intermittent power loss problem.

How bastard random is that?

Still... at least you have the beast back... and someone else might have the same problem and might not think we're all mad when we tell them to check the coils..


Ralf S.

Hi guys, i have exactly the same symptoms as described by irishstilo99,
I allready check the fusebox engine bay and inside the car, all the earth connector, measure it with multimeter, etc etc. I even take apart the dashboart to the bear metal just to see if there is any wiring that is shorting.
This problem appeared from nowere in january, and until today, after a few trys the car started but yesterday give up totally.
If there is any ideea from u guys please share that info,
Last try i will buy an ecu kit with the bcm unit , to dont hassle arround with reprograming ecu.

skunkszecsi said:

Hi guys, i have exactly the same symptoms as described by irishstilo99,
I allready check the fusebox engine bay and inside the car, all the earth connector, measure it with multimeter, etc etc. I even take apart the dashboart to the bear metal just to see if there is any wiring that is shorting.
This problem appeared from nowere in january, and until today, after a few trys the car started but yesterday give up totally.
If there is any ideea from u guys please share that info,
Last try i will buy an ecu kit with the bcm unit , to dont hassle arround with reprograming ecu.

Click to expand...

Irish found a faulty coil was causing the problems. Have you checked yours?

When you say you had the same fault, do you mean a loud ticking and then the dashboard died, or was it just the engine that died? You might have a cam-sensor fault.


Ralf S.

Hi Ralf S.
Late reply, as i get busy with work. Yes i checked everything, from spark to coils, earth conectors, fuse boxes, everything, i checked for short circuit, all the tips from forum that i could find.
I ordered a full ecu kit with the bcm , keys and locks.
Strong feeling that on the end my ecu it is dead.
The car simply stoped working, i get at work, and later when was to go home i coukdn't start it anymore.
I will let you guys a note after i change the ecu if the car run or not.
Btw, by changing the ecu and bcm body i need to make proxy alignment right?
Thank you.

Yes, the BCM can talk to the ECU and the new key but it will have to be aligned with the other modules (dashboard, central locking, mirrors etc.) but the car should still work, even if there's a load of errors flashed up when you switch it on.

As fas as the key and locks are concerned, you should be able to replace the chip in your key with the chip from the new key, which will save yoy a job of changing all the locks. Or you can fit your key blade into the new key, if the other key looks in better condition.

And, as long as the BCM picks up the signal from the key, then the immobilisor won't become moody.. so before you change *everything*, just tape the new key next to the ignition barrel, so it can be detected and so the car will start. If you get the car running then at least you will know it's all going to work before you change too many things and then (if it doesn't work) won't know what it could be.


Ralf S.

Hi again Ralf S. ,

So i changed the ECU, the BCM and the key barrel, car works in perfect condition ( thanx God) , i missed my Stilo. I am driving a Nissan Juke from 2018 as replacement until i finish some tests on the Stilo and i can say that i have more pleasure driving my "underpowered " 1.2 petrol engine Stilo , than the Juke. Stil a fun car to drive .
Unfortunatly after few test and scans with MultiEcu , i still have that U1602 or U1601 error with Can connection problem.
The car have no.warning lights, starts from first turn of the key and works perfect.
I am still worried about what the heck could be wrong there, as were checked everything, as i previosly mentioned.
Any tips?
Thank you!