Technical Centre wheel nut socket for panda climbing

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Technical Centre wheel nut socket for panda climbing

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Jul 20, 2016
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So i need to get the hub assembly off of my 2004 panda climbing 4x4, it takes a 36mm socket (a caliper was my friend and told me so).. so i went and bought a 36mm socket from my local tool-pusher, had everything ready, new parts lined up in the snow, and the tools lugged outside, car up on axle stands, wheel off, aaand my socket was too fat, outer diameter was sligthly too thick to fit in to the hub assembly and get a hold of the actual nut... did i fail because i got a cheap socket? Or has this happened to other panda owners on here?

Anyone know of a socket brand that will fit without breaking the bank and will ship fairly fast?
 
I had exactly the same problem...I went to a local engineering company and the guy there used a lathe to remove a few millimeters of the socket wall...and he didn't charge me! Don't know if that's any help to you.
I was thinking of something like this - spin it up, and grind it slowly... but I'd rather find one that actually fits, but if nothing else helps, then that's what I'll have to do
 
I did the same with my FIAT front heb..but then had no assistant to apply the brakes..I could move the car a few metres.. :(

for this exact purpose I bought a very long screwdriver, someone on youtube shows how you can put it on the pedal, then use the seat to apply the brakes by moving it forward so the screwdriver will depress the brake pedal... not tried it yet, but will report back if it works (with a picture) when or if I manage to get a socket that fits.


Also very happy I'm not the only one with this issue - felt rather silly standing there..
 
for this exact purpose I bought a very long screwdriver, someone on youtube shows how you can put it on the pedal, then use the seat to apply the brakes by moving it forward so the screwdriver will depress the brake pedal...

Also very happy I'm not the only one with this issue - felt rather silly standing there..


I recall this same problem from many years ago. No longer recall what I did.


As well as the long screwdriver, you can also use some wooden board against your seat and the scissor jack to apply brake-pedal pressure (engine on).
 
A brick wedged under the wheel worked for me. But that was with alloys that had a centre hole.

Initially I used an extension bar with the handle end supported on a jack and tried to hammer the nut loose. All I did was totally ruin the (already old and rough) T bar.

A proper breaker bar shifted it easily. It has a short business end so no extension pin to absorb the torque.
 
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Thanks for the link - it's useful to know something you can buy for a reasonable price that is proven to fit.

...I just jammed a screwsriver in the brake disk and wedged it against the caliper. worked a treat.

eek.gif


You were lucky. This is a good way to ruin both the disc and the caliper. Don't try this at home.

Also the risk of pulling the car off axle stands is too great to attempt this if a wheel is off the ground. If I'm doing this job in a proper workshop, I'll loosen the hub nut before putting the car on a lift.

A brick wedged under the wheel worked for me. But that was with alloys that had a centre hole.

This is a good method. Even if you've got some kind of fancy alloys, you can always replace with the spare wheel to do this.

Note that putting the handbrake on may not be enough - I've dragged cars along with the rear wheels locked trying this.
 
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BTW for anyone later checking this thread DONT use a cheap socket!!!

The tightening torque is a tight as you can get it plus a bit more. Only kidding but it's actually beyond my torque wrench max setting.

You need to keep the socket squarely in place and use lots of leverage. It will be impossible to shift without an air impact gun or a long breaker bar.

A brick wedged under the wheel you are working on should be enough. The spanner force is pressing the tyre down harder and the weight of the car is in your favour.
 
Thanks for the link - it's useful to know something you can buy for a reasonable price that is proven to fit.



eek.gif


You were lucky. This is a good way to ruin both the disc and the caliper. Don't try this at home.

Also the risk of pulling the car off axle stands is too great to attempt this if a wheel is off the ground. If I'm doing this job in a proper workshop, I'll loosen the hub nut before putting the car on a lift.



why would it pull the car off the axle stands? i was standing on the breaker bar to loosen the nut so the force was downwards.

it was perfectly fine. nothing damaged and i felt safe doing it (y)
 
why would it pull the car off the axle stands? i was standing on the breaker bar to loosen the nut so the force was downwards.

it was perfectly fine. nothing damaged and i felt safe doing it (y)

The job is easier with the car on it's wheels. Fit the spare wheel with socket in place if necessary. Drop car down wedge the wheel fit the breaker bar to socket and do whatever to shift the nut. When it's loose, jack up the car in the usual way and continue the job.

Finally tighten the nut with the car on it's wheels.
 
The job is easier with the car on it's wheels. Fit the spare wheel with socket in place if necessary. Drop car down wedge the wheel fit the breaker bar to socket and do whatever to shift the nut. When it's loose, jack up the car in the usual way and continue the job.

Finally tighten the nut with the car on it's wheels.


this was on my girlfriends car, so trust me, getting in the boot to get the spare wheel is a mission in its self!
 
So after my ~5£ cheap socket didnt fit I went to a shop who was willing to measure the outside of the socket they had and find one that would fit, it was about 20£ equivalent.. heres a comparison photo of the two sockets, one where the serial number of the functional socket should be visible, and the name... the Bahco 36mm 7800sm fits nicely on the nut in the wheelhub.
 

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