Not the same as petrol cars , skip to *** if in a hurry .
2005 Panda Multijet 142k miles .
Spent best part of the day at these what with trekking to and fro on bike to motor factors and 'reconditioning ' an alloy wheel ( sandpaper/ electric 'mouse' sander ,masking tape ( don't forget valve!) and silver aerosol ( specific alloy wheel silver looks great )
So I've always enjoyed doing oil changes and simple to moderate jobs on my cars but never done pads let alone discs before .Allow a half day if a novice but you may do it in under an hour with practice .My observations which may be of help - or someone may have advice re better way of doing thing .
Ok so obviously you slightly loosen wheel nuts ,jack up car and put on axle stands then remove wheel.Dont take risks , it's not worth it ! (Watch out for the Tarmac in your driveway etc - it may sink under the jacks wheels !Use something sturdy ,metal or wood ,under it for safety and to avoid your 'better half 'nagging .
*** So here's the important stuff ( And as far as I can tell it's VERY different to (basic) petrol Pandas and many of the online 'guides' .There is NO clip to pull out or pin to hammer out so stop looking ! To access the pads you have to remove the piston by undoing two 13mm bolts .Lift off the piston .It does not 'pivot' upwards as some guides show .Attach the unit to the suspension springs to prevent damage to brake fluid rubber hose ( a bungee cord is perfect for this but an old coat hanger might do the trick too )The pads have square edged 'clips' ( which by the way are like razors so be careful even cleaning your alloys !) .The pads just 'clunk ' into these .Its really quite simple if you watch what you're doing at all.Some copper grease should be put on the point where the piston meets the pads .If you were JUST changing the pads you would now reverse the procedure .Keep the clips ,they don't come with pads .Mintex part number MDB2655
To remove the discs(APEC part number DSK2219) undo two 12mm bolts with ring spanner .They have long pointy / 'spigot' like ends to help when attaching wheels so a socket probably won't work .
Next bit I found hardest / longest .There are two 19mm bolts at the back of the pad carrier and they are REALLY TIGHT .Not so hard to open just really long and take ages to fully undo requiring a lot of muscle power.However you won't be able to remove disc ( it won't fit out) without mostly if not completely removing the pad carrier attached with these two 19mm bolts .( Some wd40 on these an hour before might be a very good idea .)If they have 'thread lock' or glue , a kettle of boiling water or heat gun may help .Again reverse the procedure to finish .
I fully removed the pad carrier as I wanted to wire brush it .Some other posters on these boards recommend THOROUGH cleaning of the units (and copper grease) to prevent seizing .
Brake fluid was really easy to do with one of those rubber hose and plastic bottle kits they sell.500ml will be enough ,you don't need the litre unless 'pumping the pedal' for ages .
My ' old ' discs were very worn especially on left side with alarming areas where pads were not making contact .Pads had 'steps' in them despite being only a year old (18k miles) I also found the callipers had a tendency to get 'sticky' even if car was unused for a weekend and / or not braked aggressively every day or two .( Nevertheless passed NCT ,our MOT with good braking scores )
Braking is brilliant now especially improved at low and maximum pedal pressure .
I reckon between partially seized callipers and turbo actuator rods ( 'fix' with wd40)most people don't realise 65% of the potential of their Panda Multijets .Mine is a 2005 so no nasty DPF although alas my red paint has faded badly and as it's under lacquer can't be improved .My 'record' is 92mpg indicated ( perhaps 84 mpg 'actual') on a 40 miles each way commute .Id imagine it's next to impossible to get below 50mpg .I had a Toyota Aygo that could barely manage low 50s mpg( and a Panda 100hp that could barely manage low 40s mpg which with the ridiculously hard suspension meant it had to go .By the way I reckon the Multijet could give the 100hp a run for its money on motorway at 70-100 (I won't say which speed units ...!We use kph here in a Republic of Ireland...)
Finally I had a frontal collision ( aquaplaned off a flooded bend - small diesels are known for losing grip at back in very wet conditions ! )and hit a low mud bank) in my Multijet a couple years ago and it was remarkably safe and 'undamaged' - new rad and bumper was about the height of it !My only ever 'proper' crash after 20 years on the road ( although I did survive a Transit rear ending me in a yellow Cinquecento Sporting- and only needing a rear light !!! ( small crack in bumper) - and a wheel falling off a 1998 Punto Sporting ,the latter incident only a week or two before the Panda one .
For anyone who does moderate to high mileage this ain't a car , it's a £/€ 50 note making machine when fuel savings are taken into account !!!
Sorry for rambling .Hope of some use .
2005 Panda Multijet 142k miles .
Spent best part of the day at these what with trekking to and fro on bike to motor factors and 'reconditioning ' an alloy wheel ( sandpaper/ electric 'mouse' sander ,masking tape ( don't forget valve!) and silver aerosol ( specific alloy wheel silver looks great )
So I've always enjoyed doing oil changes and simple to moderate jobs on my cars but never done pads let alone discs before .Allow a half day if a novice but you may do it in under an hour with practice .My observations which may be of help - or someone may have advice re better way of doing thing .
Ok so obviously you slightly loosen wheel nuts ,jack up car and put on axle stands then remove wheel.Dont take risks , it's not worth it ! (Watch out for the Tarmac in your driveway etc - it may sink under the jacks wheels !Use something sturdy ,metal or wood ,under it for safety and to avoid your 'better half 'nagging .
*** So here's the important stuff ( And as far as I can tell it's VERY different to (basic) petrol Pandas and many of the online 'guides' .There is NO clip to pull out or pin to hammer out so stop looking ! To access the pads you have to remove the piston by undoing two 13mm bolts .Lift off the piston .It does not 'pivot' upwards as some guides show .Attach the unit to the suspension springs to prevent damage to brake fluid rubber hose ( a bungee cord is perfect for this but an old coat hanger might do the trick too )The pads have square edged 'clips' ( which by the way are like razors so be careful even cleaning your alloys !) .The pads just 'clunk ' into these .Its really quite simple if you watch what you're doing at all.Some copper grease should be put on the point where the piston meets the pads .If you were JUST changing the pads you would now reverse the procedure .Keep the clips ,they don't come with pads .Mintex part number MDB2655
To remove the discs(APEC part number DSK2219) undo two 12mm bolts with ring spanner .They have long pointy / 'spigot' like ends to help when attaching wheels so a socket probably won't work .
Next bit I found hardest / longest .There are two 19mm bolts at the back of the pad carrier and they are REALLY TIGHT .Not so hard to open just really long and take ages to fully undo requiring a lot of muscle power.However you won't be able to remove disc ( it won't fit out) without mostly if not completely removing the pad carrier attached with these two 19mm bolts .( Some wd40 on these an hour before might be a very good idea .)If they have 'thread lock' or glue , a kettle of boiling water or heat gun may help .Again reverse the procedure to finish .
I fully removed the pad carrier as I wanted to wire brush it .Some other posters on these boards recommend THOROUGH cleaning of the units (and copper grease) to prevent seizing .
Brake fluid was really easy to do with one of those rubber hose and plastic bottle kits they sell.500ml will be enough ,you don't need the litre unless 'pumping the pedal' for ages .
My ' old ' discs were very worn especially on left side with alarming areas where pads were not making contact .Pads had 'steps' in them despite being only a year old (18k miles) I also found the callipers had a tendency to get 'sticky' even if car was unused for a weekend and / or not braked aggressively every day or two .( Nevertheless passed NCT ,our MOT with good braking scores )
Braking is brilliant now especially improved at low and maximum pedal pressure .
I reckon between partially seized callipers and turbo actuator rods ( 'fix' with wd40)most people don't realise 65% of the potential of their Panda Multijets .Mine is a 2005 so no nasty DPF although alas my red paint has faded badly and as it's under lacquer can't be improved .My 'record' is 92mpg indicated ( perhaps 84 mpg 'actual') on a 40 miles each way commute .Id imagine it's next to impossible to get below 50mpg .I had a Toyota Aygo that could barely manage low 50s mpg( and a Panda 100hp that could barely manage low 40s mpg which with the ridiculously hard suspension meant it had to go .By the way I reckon the Multijet could give the 100hp a run for its money on motorway at 70-100 (I won't say which speed units ...!We use kph here in a Republic of Ireland...)
Finally I had a frontal collision ( aquaplaned off a flooded bend - small diesels are known for losing grip at back in very wet conditions ! )and hit a low mud bank) in my Multijet a couple years ago and it was remarkably safe and 'undamaged' - new rad and bumper was about the height of it !My only ever 'proper' crash after 20 years on the road ( although I did survive a Transit rear ending me in a yellow Cinquecento Sporting- and only needing a rear light !!! ( small crack in bumper) - and a wheel falling off a 1998 Punto Sporting ,the latter incident only a week or two before the Panda one .
For anyone who does moderate to high mileage this ain't a car , it's a £/€ 50 note making machine when fuel savings are taken into account !!!
Sorry for rambling .Hope of some use .
Last edited:
