Technical Panda Body Computer Protocols

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Technical Panda Body Computer Protocols

999auto

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Here's the thing. I bought the (absurdly expensive) Fiat boot light for my new Panda 1.2 and fitted it following the excellent guide on this forum. It doesn't work! Here are the facts:
1. Light unit is ok, tested on 12v battery.
2. Testing across wiring harness plug (boot open) - 0 volts, until driver's door is opened, then 12 volts which remains even after driver's door is closed and main courtesy light darkens. In this condition the boot light still doesn't glow - this appears to be due to an extremely high resistance to earth. The 12v can only be detected with a digital multimeter, ordinary test lamps won't work because of the resistance in the earth path. If I apply a separate known earth to the orange/white wire at the plug then the light works but is of course permanently on.
3. At some point (can't say how long, I got fed-up waiting!) the 12v supply (red/green wire at plug) disappears if the car is left undisturbed. This would seem to indicate that switching is taking place in the Body Computer ECU -- but I fail to see the logic.
4. I've had the boot and tailgate trim pretty much apart and failed to find anything resembling a switch or sensor which might control the operation of a boot light -- so how is it done?​

Clearly I'm missing something here -- maybe a missing component or some sort of re-programming. If anyone can shed some light (ha!) on the subject I'd be most grateful.​

:bang:​
 
It's Canbus controlled by the body computer, as all the lights have the feature of turning off after X amount of time, so if you leave the boot open at a carboot when selling for example, you don't get a flat battery.

To see if the car is getting the correct signals, check to see if the warning comes up and goes off on the dash to say the boot is open, when the ignition is switched on.
 
Hi M.E.P.
No, no warning lights on dash for open doors or boot. Can't say I'm surprised, it is the base model after all.
 
Are you in the UK? If so the base model is only the 1.1, not 1.2.

If this is the case then your issue lies in the fact that your boot catch doesn't contain a switch and you'll need to upgrade it for one off of a 1.2.

It's plug and play iirc but is a further £50ish new from Fiat. I'm still trying to find one in a scrap yard For doing the same thing with Sisters 1.1 Active.
 
Thanks for that MEP. Yes, it's a UK car (Stoke-on-Trent). What I meant was, it's the base spec 1.2. Wish I'd known about the boot catch before forking out 18 quid for the damned lamp! Might just offer it for sale for a tenner and forget the whole thing.
I can see no internal wiring to the boot catch, though I haven't actually gone as far removing it from the tailgate. There is another unused plug (black) taped up to the harness inside the tailgate. The car is 3 months old, Euro 5 spec. Perhaps Fiat have made a few more economies on these latest vehicles.
 
TO see what the wiring on the boot latch looks like (or to see if it is there at all) see this Guide: https://www.fiatforum.com/panda-guides/229226-how-remove-replace-electric-tailgate-handle.html

Fifth row of photos down refers to a white plug (which is connected to the external boot release switch), but in the photo you can also see the black connector to the boot latch itself. It is the wires in there that operate the boot light (and the dash 'doors open' lamp)

Pete
 
Thanks for that Pete. I had found the 3-wire black connector you mention and guessed it was for the boot latch. Having now had the latch completely off the car and examined it closely it seems that it ought to be possible for me (as an ex-BT engineer!) to fit some sort of standard microswitch (Maplins?) that would do the job. What I really need to find out is a wiring diagram so I can identify which wire serves the light and which go to the body computer, also the required switch function (make/break, etc.). Any Fiat electricians out there??
 
I can't remember them off the top of my head but should be easy enough to 'trouble shoot' with a live Feed tester and a peice of bare wire to then bridge this feed into one of the spare wires until the light comes on, or alternatively using a continuity tester on the light and other end with the wiring on the boot lid.
 
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