Technical SERIOUS cutout at 2-3k-URGENT

Diwiak · Feb 25, 2009

Hi

changed leads, plugs, set 0.9mm gap at all plugs, resetted ECU (done around 30miles after), and it have serious cutouts when idling at around 2-3k rpm-while rapidly accelerating, no problem at all, only when staying at those revs, engine seriously cutout, car almost want to stop.. any ideas???? i had this before, but not so much, only small flatouts..

also changed radiator, clutch, thermostat etc... but it have nothing to do with..???

help urgently needed, on friday long trip... thanks.. also check this please:

"fan start at around 95degrees, and after few seconds stops-engine is not overheating, but I think its too short time
and it doesnt depends on revs, idle or 4krpm, still the same

checked everything, leads, no problem at all.. looks like that fan switch is crap, but that old one was working almost same... maybe thermo gauge is fault????

btw. new radiator, coolant, thermostat, fan switch, properly maintained.."

fordcosworth · Feb 25, 2009

Diwiak said:
Hi

changed leads, plugs, set 0.9mm gap at all plugs, resetted ECU (done around 30miles after), and it have serious cutouts when idling at around 2-3k rpm-while rapidly accelerating, no problem at all, only when staying at those revs, engine seriously cutout, car almost want to stop.. any ideas???? i had this before, but not so much, only small flatouts..

also changed radiator, clutch, thermostat etc... but it have nothing to do with..???

help urgently needed, on friday long trip... thanks.. also check this please:

"fan start at around 95degrees, and after few seconds stops-engine is not overheating, but I think its too short time
and it doesnt depends on revs, idle or 4krpm, still the same

checked everything, leads, no problem at all.. looks like that fan switch is crap, but that old one was working almost same... maybe thermo gauge is fault????

btw. new radiator, coolant, thermostat, fan switch, properly maintained.."

checked the map sensor and map sensor vac lines? also if its cutting out mid revs like that could possibly be throttle position sensor, its responsable for telling the ecu you want fuel fast when snapping the throttle down and also tells the ecu exactly where the throttle is to pin point fueling on the ecu mapp. mine was doing somthing similar to this, i fitted a new quality lambda sensor that cured it

as for the fan i think thats pritty normal behaviour.

jason

Diwiak · Feb 25, 2009

but everything was fine before.. where is that map sensor??? new lambda is a bit dear improve

couldnt be wrong plugs??? I was removing gbox so lot of leads was moved and stretched-maybe some bad connection..?? couldnt it improve after few more miles???

fordcosworth · Feb 25, 2009

Diwiak said:
but everything was fine before.. where is that map sensor??? new lambda is a bit dear improve couldnt be wrong plugs??? I was removing gbox so lot of leads was moved and stretched-maybe some bad connection..?? couldnt it improve after few more miles???

you could have pulled something, the map senor is attached to a small plate bolted to the ecu in the top left hand corner, you can follow the vac line from the manifold, check its not ripped or torn, doubt that its the wrong plugs, what you got in?
and i doubt it will improve,,,,,,,,although after owning my car anything is possible!!

does sound very much like a throttle position sensor fault though that, could be wrong.
does the engine totaly cut out? that may indicate possible crank senser problem, does it smell of fuel, i.e is it running really rich.

Diwiak · Feb 25, 2009

no smell of fuel, plugs are NGK, iam thinking of wrong plugs gap, but 0.9mm should be allright.. ???!? some bad connection looks like possible fault-but as i said, while accelerating, idling, engine is running allright-if crank sensor problem there could be more troubles i think, when i disconnected it last time, it didnt start at all what i remember

but now I remember-that vac line could be probably problem-when disconnecting I seen there are some small cracks, so probably its not working 100%... - any idea how to swap it(where could I find some similar plastic pipe?????...). rubber hose is not a good idea, it will "suck itself"

.. i have 899cinq for spares, but probably thereisnt same pipe in 899s engine

will take multimeter tommorow and check all leads

fordcosworth · Feb 25, 2009

Diwiak said:
no smell of fuel, plugs are NGK, iam thinking of wrong plugs gap, but 0.9mm should be allright.. ???!? some bad connection looks like possible fault-but as i said, while accelerating, idling, engine is running allright-if crank sensor problem there could be more troubles i think, when i disconnected it last time, it didnt start at all what i remember

but now I remember-that vac line could be probably problem-when disconnecting I seen there are some small cracks, so probably its not working 100%... - any idea how to swap it(where could I find some similar plastic pipe?????...). rubber hose is not a good idea, it will "suck itself" .. i have 899cinq for spares, but probably thereisnt same pipe in 899s engine

i use a rubber hose on mine, aslong as its not to floppy so to speak, the 899cc uses the same one i believe, i got my vac hose from halfords but its blue silicone hose and cost 17 quid!

jason

Diwiak · Feb 25, 2009

17??? OMFG, but rubber hose is still a bit floppy, and thats not making goodness.?? will check tommorow in some DIY shop

do u think that inner diameter of that pipe is real matter???? if it will be a bit wider..????

i think 899's not using any vac sensor.. ???

fordcosworth · Feb 25, 2009

Diwiak said:
17??? OMFG, but rubber hose is still a bit floppy, and thats not making goodness.?? will check tommorow in some DIY shop

do u think that inner diameter of that pipe is real matter???? if it will be a bit wider..????

i think 899's not using any vac sensor.. ???

the 899 uses the same map sensor as the sporting, and pretty much the same vac line, been staring at one today (had the nice job of doing the head gasket on the girlfriends 899)
if its to big it wount seal and the map reading wount be accurate, the vac pipe from halfords was 5mm hose (outside dia) it fitted on nice and snug but i popped a tie wrap on too to stop it blowing of.

jason

nmrmak · Feb 25, 2009

Does it happen only with the engine warm or with engine warm and cold all the same?

Diwiak · Feb 25, 2009

dont know because was driving only warm today-is there some difference????

nmrmak · Feb 25, 2009

if it happens only when the car is hot, it could be a faulty lambda, happened on mine. Doesn't mean it's 100% the lambda, but just saying it might be that. Especially if it idles a bit rough too and you notice your fuel consumption is up.

Edit: just an explanation, the car doesn't rely on the lambda until the engine is warm/hot, so lambda faults generally don't show when the engine is cold. And when i had a lambda fault, it would accelerate nice when i'd floor it, but stutter and cut out a little bit when i went at half-throttle. Also, it idled a bit rough when hot, and even started shaking pretty violently once and the check engine light went on on the dashboard.

baggley · Feb 26, 2009

could the timing belt had slipped?

My timming belt slipped and it wouldn't let me rev over 4,000rpm!

Worth a try,

cheers

Diwiak · Feb 26, 2009

no way, its reving nice, i wasnt touching timing belt

i think that vac hose will be first thing to sort-its cracked

then crank hose sensor-time ago there was brken cable, maybe its wrong again..

nmrmak · Feb 26, 2009

I'd go in this order: vac hose, lambda, crank sensor. Another idea would be to check the HT leads (start the engine in the dark, and watch under the hood for any arcs), since it's a misfire issue, but i'd think it would misfire all the time, not just when "cruising"

Diwiak · Feb 26, 2009

swapped vac hose with stiff petrol rubber hose with the same inner diameter, on short drive it was allright-tommorow will try it around 100miles

fordcosworth · Feb 26, 2009

Diwiak said:
swapped vac hose with stiff petrol rubber hose with the same inner diameter, on short drive it was allright-tommorow will try it around 100miles

hope thats cured it mate

jason

levemircento · Feb 26, 2009

I found that the original vac hose to map was constantly splitting, along its seam, I swapped it for another piece of similar hose and that did the same after a while.

What I am using now is some black washer pipe hose from a ford escort, it has soem sort of braiding in it and is more plasticy than rubbery, no problems with it at all.

fordcosworth · Feb 26, 2009

levemir said:
I found that the original vac hose to map was constantly splitting, along its seam, I swapped it for another piece of similar hose and that did the same after a while.

What I am using now is some black washer pipe hose from a ford escort, it has soem sort of braiding in it and is more plasticy than rubbery, no problems with it at all.

good idea that, the only problem with my silicone vac hose is over time the oil contamination makes it go black and eventually corrodes through! cant see that happenening on an N/A engine tho.

jason

Diwiak · Feb 26, 2009

still that problem, its not always, sometimes its fine sometimes not-when around 2-3k, its loosing revs/power-need to press clutch, press gas, rev and its fine again, looks no matter of temp

it was allright before new clutch, cvjoints, radiator, etc.. I hope its only some bad conenction, or could be a resetted ecu issue??? (battery out for few days) because no changes to engine(except leads and plugs-is 0.9mm gap right???)

maybe its still that vac hose(maybe hose isnt too stiff and its changing its diemater)

but why only at low revs, and at high its running great..???

I have parts from 899cinq- is lambda, and map sensor, and other sensors the same. ???? could swap them for a try

thanks

Diwiak · Feb 28, 2009

problem still here

and worse, its not responding to throttle wheen keeping constant revs(between 1.5-3k), need to release gas pedal, then push it and its reving again-injection control light is still off

Technical SERIOUS cutout at 2-3k-URGENT

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