General Scudo 1.9 Diesel Immobiliser Wiring...

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General Scudo 1.9 Diesel Immobiliser Wiring...

merlecollins

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Hi All,

Just joined the forum as I have bought a 1998 V 1.9(flat)diesel Scudo at the weekend.(y)

It's got a couple of problems with it, but nothing major (I THINK!! :eek: )

When I viewed and collected the van, the fella selling it showed me a bit of a problem when starting it - 7 times out of 10 it starts first time, but there are occassions when you have to jiggle a electrical connection in the engine bay, I assume taht this has something to do with the immobiliser, because I can hear a clicking noise in what looks like an immobiliser box to the side of the engine bay. Once I hear that click, it starts fine:slayer:

Obviously I don't want to spend the rest of my life jiggling this connection, but don't want to be fleeced by an auto-electrician baffling me with science!! Is it easy enough to repair connections in these vans - would i need a soldering iron or anything specialist??:confused:

Also the heaters don't work at all - I have read somewhere that the heater motor goes on these vans, is this true?? Is there any tests I can carry out to eliminate motor failure??

Other than that, it's great - except the age old locks spinning problem....

Cheers for any help/advice,
MC
 
If it works by jiggiling the connections it's allmost certainly that connections thats wrong!. Possably just eletro corrostion. Try disconnecting the battery (live terminal is suficiant) and poreing a kettle of boiling water(newly boiled the hotter the better) over the connections. Its the best way any sparkie knows for clearing electro corrostion. As for the heater i'm not sure but i think the switch on the dash is quit prone, think i read something about this in an earlier thread in this forum. Hope this helps . good luck
 
Cheers BD!!(y)

The cables go into one side and out the other of a small connection box (approx an inch square) do you think the boiling water will get into it?

Also do I need to leave it for any length of time before reconnecting the battery??:confused:
 
If it works by jiggiling the connections it's allmost certainly that connections thats wrong!. Possably just eletro corrostion. Try disconnecting the battery (live terminal is suficiant) and poreing a kettle of boiling water(newly boiled the hotter the better) over the connections. Its the best way any sparkie knows for clearing electro corrostion. As for the heater i'm not sure but i think the switch on the dash is quit prone, think i read something about this in an earlier thread in this forum. Hope this helps . good luck


You sure about pouring boiling water over electrical connections? Sounds like the worst advice ever given IMHO!

I'd opt for a spot of WD40 (or a dedicated electrical contact cleaner) and some emry cloth / sandpaper to remove the corrosion - re-connect and test - if it works try and get some heatshrink over the connection or at least a smear of vaseline!

Pouring boiling water over anything electrical in my opionon is as stupid as it gets! Electricity and water don't mix - why run the risk of getting water into plugs / fuse boxes / relays etc. If you pour water it'll settle somewhere else and cause more problems down the line!
 
Not sure which box it is but i assume it's just a houseing to protect the connection, This being the case try to open it so you can pour the water directly on the terminals, Failing that just pour it as best you can, Give the battery a couple of minutes before reconecting just to let exess water drain, you dont have to wait any lenth of time. You might need the code for your radio though.
 
You sure about pouring boiling water over electrical connections? Sounds like the worst advice ever given IMHO!

I'd opt for a spot of WD40 (or a dedicated electrical contact cleaner) and some emry cloth / sandpaper to remove the corrosion - re-connect and test - if it works try and get some heatshrink over the connection or at least a smear of vaseline!

Pouring boiling water over anything electrical in my opionon is as stupid as it gets! Electricity and water don't mix - why run the risk of getting water into plugs / fuse boxes / relays etc. If you pour water it'll settle somewhere else and cause more problems down the line!

I know it sounds stupid but it,s as good as it gets and a common trick with sparkies. You must disconect the power first for obvious reasons. Try it on your battery terminals and see, they come up like new!. As for the sitting water it,s no different from driveing through a puddle or in the rain (y)
 
I know it sounds stupid but it,s as good as it gets and a common trick with sparkies. You must disconect the power first for obvious reasons. Try it on your battery terminals and see, they come up like new!. As for the sitting water it,s no different from driveing through a puddle or in the rain (y)


A damp rag to wipe them over fair enough but I still maintain it's stupid to pour boiling water over anything electrical! Look under your engine bay after going through a deep puddle and you'll find splashed of water and moisture buddles - not a litre of water cascading into your electrical system like it would from a kettle....

Each to their own and I wish you well with your boiling water trick, but it's not something I'd ever consider doing or recommend to anyone (y)
 
as said above I would use a dedicated electrical contact cleaner and some emery paper, I would never consider using boiling water.
 
Try disconnecting the battery (live terminal is suficiant) and poreing a kettle of boiling water(newly boiled the hotter the better) over the connections. Its the best way any sparkie knows for clearing electro corrostion.

I've been an Auto-Electrician (sparky) for over 30 years and have never heard of and never would pour water (boiling or otherwise) over electrical connectors. The only exception to this is battery terminals where boiling water does dissolve the sulphate contamination caused by leaking sulphuric acid. When doing this you need to contain the spill to prevent it coming into contact with any other parts of the car. It's highly corrosive even in it's dilute form.

Normal electrical connnectors don't get contaminated with sulphuric acid. If they won't clean with electrical contact cleaner, they need to be replaced.

Dave.
 
the relay you hear clicking is the double relay (powers up ECU - hence why car often wont start) & chances are the fault is internal corrosion of the engine bay wiring loom...good luck in finding the break(s), as for the heater motor its often the internal control module that goes so you need to remove the heater blower to check.
 
cheers:slayer:

how do i actually remove the heater blower??:confused:

I had the front cover removed today but couldnt get anything else, i.e. the control slider unit, out.....:(
 
Thanks VERY much T14086, sounds like you have saved my bacon here...

so is the motor easy to get to once i have dropped the glove compartment out??:confused:

Is there a way of testing the motor to see if it is knackered?
 
Hi All,

Just joined the forum as I have bought a 1998 V 1.9(flat)diesel Scudo at the weekend.(y)

It's got a couple of problems with it, but nothing major (I THINK!! :eek: )

When I viewed and collected the van, the fella selling it showed me a bit of a problem when starting it - 7 times out of 10 it starts first time, but there are occassions when you have to jiggle a electrical connection in the engine bay, I assume taht this has something to do with the immobiliser, because I can hear a clicking noise in what looks like an immobiliser box to the side of the engine bay. Once I hear that click, it starts fine:slayer:

Obviously I don't want to spend the rest of my life jiggling this connection, but don't want to be fleeced by an auto-electrician baffling me with science!! Is it easy enough to repair connections in these vans - would i need a soldering iron or anything specialist??:confused:

Also the heaters don't work at all - I have read somewhere that the heater motor goes on these vans, is this true?? Is there any tests I can carry out to eliminate motor failure??

Other than that, it's great - except the age old locks spinning problem....

Cheers for any help/advice,
MC
Had same intermittent starting problem with my scudo,it would't start,then it would I had AA, RAC out to it 3 times, after there fiddling for half an hour it started and they said take it to main dealer. When it refused again i got it towed to main dealer,(bad move),3days later, bill for £300,bent harness plug connection they said, very difficult to find. Me sceptic, 2 weeks later failed again,contacted dealer they said it is probably another fault and I would have to pay again.Me not a Happy man.I decided next time it failed I would look at it myself,it failed ,I was on a hill so I coasted to flat ground, it started,I drove slightly uphill and parked, bonnet up and just getting in the cab would determine start or no start, I heard the relay clicking when ignition turned on and successfully started,but not when no start.I located relay on drivers side bulkhead and took it out of its plug connection and off bulkhead and could get the van to start or not by moving relay off horizontal.Relay was welded shut I cut the weld line and seperated two halves and found!!!!! it was contaminated with water getting in,shorting contacts according to van inclination when parked.Replaced relay,2years no failure to start, so much for Main dealers,Diagnostic equipment and motoring organisations. Hope this might help somebody.
 
Main dealer should of renewed the double relay first, its cheap and common for being at fault, however I have had re-occuring faults with the loom as the loom rots internally and you literally have to check every inch of the loom.
 
Hi,
I've got 98 scudo 1.9D and been having probs with immobiliser for some time. Anyone know if there's anyway of bypassing it?
Van's omly worth around £700 so dont really want to spend loads on it.
Immobilser light on dash only goes out when ignition turned to start position but comes straght on when key turned back.
I know it'll start if when I turn key back light stays off - starts evry time like that.
Any help guys - getting near to throwing it away!
 
Thanks for prompt reply.
So nothing can be done to wiring going to pump?
Solenoid seems to working fine - clicking when plug disconnected/connected.
When engine is running, disconnecting the other black plug connection cuts engine out.
Replaced glowplugs and relay on drivers side of engine compartment near bonnet hinge.
Glow plug relay seems to be working fine.
How does immobiliser work to stop engine?
 
all depends on year/model, most have PCB inside rear of pump which immobilisers fuel going into pump. Have a look in ducato section as lots of similiar info there, scudo pumps tend to be more reliable.
 
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