General Help with injector light on coupe 20v turbo

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General Help with injector light on coupe 20v turbo

sak2008

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Hi all,

I have a Fiat Coupe 20V Turbo (1999) and recently it has begun to give me some problems.
When i start the engine cold the injector light comes on and goes out as normal and it runs fine. However after the engine warms up to normal operating temperature the injector malfuntion light comes on and the engine begins to missfire and has little power. Could anyone advise on what the problem maybe. I have changed the spark plugs and fuel filter but the problem is still present. So on a cold engine it runs fine but as soon as it warms up the injector light comes on and it seems to misfire and has little power.

Any advice will be much appreiciated.
 
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Thanks for the advice mate.
Can anyone suggest a good garage in and around London that i could take my Fiat to?
 
Hi all,

I have a Fiat Coupe 20V Turbo (1999) and recently it has begun to give me some problems.
When i start the engine cold the injector light comes on and goes out as normal and it runs fine. However after the engine warms up to normal operating temperature the injector malfuntion light comes on and the engine begins to missfire and has little power. Could anyone advise on what the problem maybe. I have changed the spark plugs and fuel filter but the problem is still present. So on a cold engine it runs fine but as soon as it warms up the injector light comes on and it seems to misfire and has little power.

Any advice will be much appreiciated.
My coupe has same problem.. Diagnostics read Lamba sensor, And DEBIMETER..but unsure which one to change.. could Anybody confirm to me what a DEBIMETER is?? cheers
 
another vote vor Lambda, as on cold start I dont think it's used then it is once the cts cuts out, as it warms up.

I believe that a debimeter is an airflow meter, so Maf sensor. I would try cleaning with electrical contact cleaner 1st
 
I've had a very similar problem and found in my case it was caused by a poor electrical contact on the connector for my airflow meter. I cleaned it with some contact spray and voila! Run the engine and give it a wiggle and see if it makes it missfire. Also could try cleaning airflow meter itself.
 
Re: Help with injector warning light/stalling on coupe 20v

Hi,
I have a 20v coupe, which some weeks ago started to give me problems. On cold start, it ran at 2,500 revs all on it's own, without me having touched the accelerator. Now, opposite problem. It starts perfectly, but immediately cuts out, unless I keep the revs up with the accelerator. It runs perfectly at whatever revs I want as long as I don't stop pushing the accelerator. No misfiring and it drives with normal power....until I let go of the accelerator. Instantly, the injection warning light comes on and if I'm not going fast enough for the engine to 'bump start' itself, it stalls. I have had the idea of maybe an air leak on the inlet somewhere...a seal or a hose that's split, but my mechanical experience is really on vehicles that are far more 'mechanical'. This seems like a mess of wires and electrics to me. Any one else had this problem? I live in the countryside in France with no access to a diagnostics machine and the nearest fiat dealers (at over an hour away) are rip-off merchants....
 
Re: Help with injector warning light/stalling on coupe 20v

Hi,
I have a 20v coupe, which some weeks ago started to give me problems. On cold start, it ran at 2,500 revs all on it's own, without me having touched the accelerator. Now, opposite problem. It starts perfectly, but immediately cuts out, unless I keep the revs up with the accelerator. It runs perfectly at whatever revs I want as long as I don't stop pushing the accelerator. No misfiring and it drives with normal power....until I let go of the accelerator. Instantly, the injection warning light comes on and if I'm not going fast enough for the engine to 'bump start' itself, it stalls. I have had the idea of maybe an air leak on the inlet somewhere...a seal or a hose that's split, but my mechanical experience is really on vehicles that are far more 'mechanical'. This seems like a mess of wires and electrics to me. Any one else had this problem? I live in the countryside in France with no access to a diagnostics machine and the nearest fiat dealers (at over an hour away) are rip-off merchants....


I would, as you say, look for a damaged air pipe first, you should hear it sucking in air. Otherwise it sounds exactly like a stuck idle control valve.
They are responsible for the correct idle on the car. When they stick half open the revs will stay no lower than a few thousand revs. As though your foot is on the acelerator. I suspect yours is now stuck in the fully closed position causing the car to stall as soon as you are not operating the throttle. The valve can be removed, I think (have not got my car here) It is a little black box located on/next to the throttlebody with an electrical connector going to it. needs unscrewing
(2 x 30-Torx bolts)
you can spray the valve out with carb cleaner. :)
also worth checking the electrical connector is on properly.
 
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hi all.
i own a fiat cope'20v turbo and a few day's ego the car began to give me a bit of problem...after a trip i stopped the car,a wile after try to restart but the car began to misfire..:cry: running 4 cylinder:bang:..the temp on that day where hot,one's the car cool down it start fine:mad:.I've try to swap the injector cable(to identify which faulty injector is)and realise is the one just next the cam pulley:confused:(is this the number 1??) the car start fine on cold.Hot prob related could be?? parking the car(it is been running fine without misfire)the other day,now it won't even start:eek:!!key into the ignition but it won't turn:doh:!!the battery is new,plenty of fuel,no IGNITION LIGHT ON,NO KEY CODE ON,please guy's any help would be appreciated! just purchase my coupe' a mont ego and i had enough of ownership
 
Italian electrics for ya :ROFLMAO:.

If as you say the battery is OK, Ignition light off, Key code light OFF. First thing to check would be starter motor. Quite common for them to seize / stick on after ignition which can burn them out quite fast.

As for misfire if it happens again compression test on all 5 cyl's would be first move.
 
hi there mate(y)! thank'svery much to answer my problem:)just check the starter motor,and find out the"brushes" where the main prob:D!the garage diagnostic that i have to change that injector..they didn't tell me the courses of that to fail:mad:!do you recon it would be an camshaft sensor problem related or is better if i go whit a cylinder compression ratio??your answer would be very much appreciate:D,cheers mate
 
hi there mate:)the car starting ok,no misfire at idle,no misfire under a partial throttle,but it does happen when the car is hot:eek: at all the time! stop the car for 5 min,restart it and then gutted:mad:misfire at cylinder n 1 i believe(the enjector just next the cam's pulley)and still have this prob!!car cooling down a bit,then it start fine:bang:last night on high speed full boost(130/140mph)the injector light came on,off the boost light disappear, no misfire.water temp on 70 degree,oil temp on 50(seems fine for me)any help mate?
 
Seems a tad cool especially when going that speed and the engine working hard.

Maybe it is actually the injector?. Mine was doing something similar and it turned out injector 3 (3rd one in from the cam pulley side) was faulty. Have you tried reading the codes?

I'd 1.) Get ECU codes read.
2.) If thats inconclusive get a compression test on all 5 cyl's

What sort of oil pressure does it hold? both at idle and running once its hot?
 
hi there mate:),oil pressure a riddle on cold start is steady between 2.8 and 3BAR,once hot is a slightly over 3BAR.haven't try a ECU code READ YET but will do that along a compression test on all 5 cyl:confused:,what causes the injection to fail:mad:?i will change it soon as (i belive is that the couses of my prob:cry:)as you said..whot do you recon mate?
 
I wouldn't go changing things until you've had the codes read and the compression test. Hopefully if it is a faulty injector it will tell you which one if your lucky.

Injectors fail just because of use they have very fine moving parts which move at an incredibly fast rate:-

350px-Injector3.gif


The compression will tell you that the engine is holding pressure and not leaking it through the piston rings or the head gasket which can also cause mis-fire symptoms.
 
I wouldn't go changing things until you've had the codes read and the compression test. Hopefully if it is a faulty injector it will tell you which one if your lucky.

Injectors fail just because of use they have very fine moving parts which move at an incredibly fast rate:-

350px-Injector3.gif


The compression will tell you that the engine is holding pressure and not leaking it through the piston rings or the head gasket which can also cause misfire symptoms.
hi there mate thanks to answer,it is so good to know that THERE ARE PEOPLE WHO ARE WILLING TO HELP YOU:D!!big respect(y)
 
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